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  #1  
Old 02-28-2012
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Refinish Cabin Sole

Anyone have experience with a non skid additive to cabin sole varnish (Interlux 60)?

Interlux recommends Intergrip 2398c which is documented for use on decks. I'm unsure if the beads will cloud the finish.
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Old 03-10-2012
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Re: Refinish Cabin Sole

PCS,

I'm about to start the process of refinishing our sole, it's pretty beat up. How are you planning to accomplish the project? Sanding, products and number of coats, etc.?

Ryan
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Old 03-17-2012
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Re: Refinish Cabin Sole

Ryan,

First, I would recommend picking up the book Brightwork, The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca J. Whittman. It's a well written, beutiful book with excellent instruction.

Here's what I'm doing.

Maria is hull #12 (I think) laid up in 1981....I think #12, because the numbering seems to indicate 112 which is unlikely so early in production)

My sole is veneer and appears to be 1/16 inch based inspecting the cross section in a hole for a pedestal base.

I have sanded veneer before with disasterous results....on my fathers boat....which made it an even greater disaster.

Using a heat gun on a layered/glued/composite just doesn't feel right. Plus if you burn the veneer it's difficult if not impossible to repair. You can order more teak veneer and follow inlay instructions, but it will never look the same no matter how good you are.

I have taken the sole hatches home and stripped them. I used a powerful stripper but would suggest going with something more green (soy based) or doing some research by reaching out to an antique restoration shop. Reasoning...the stripper seemed to bleach my engine hatch/step. It's not the same teak as the floors so that may have been the reason.

I have not stripped the non removable sections yet but plan on protecting all vertical surfaces with tape and horizontal surfaces with a layer of plastic (heavy mill), then newspaper, then wax paper around the edges. I don't want stripper in the bildge or on any plastic wiring etc.

All waste product is brought to the recycling center.

After stripping, I clean with mild oxcalic acid then borax neutralizer wash). There are many different cleaners/brighteners out there. The strongest and most effective that I have found (with some negatives such as removing soft grain) is 2 part Teka. I used that on 1" solid teak decks and liked the result but will avoid on interior or any vaneer work because it's pretty aggressive. That's why I mix up my own diluted batches.

Following stripping I might lightly block sand with 220 grit or bronze wool. Depends on the condition, scratches etc.

I am starting the varnish process now. After reading so many great reviews about UltimateSole, I learned it is no longer being produced. Must have been radioactive or a "borrowed" formula.

I landed on Interlux 60, based on Wittman's recommendation. Interlux 60 is warmer and not as glossy as Epiphanes which I use on furniture. This is a single part varnish and while 2 part epoxies may be stronger and last longer, I don't want to mix my limited varnishing experience with a complicated varnish.

I have allways followed the thinning recommendations in Wittman's book. While many people recommend foam brushes for the first few coats, I don't like them because in my hands they seem to apply more bubbles than varnish. Might be that I'm thinning it too much for foam.

Jamestown has reasonably priced badger hair brushes. Buy them, and a brush keeper. $100 in brushes and a quality keeper for a 40+ hour job is worth it.

I'll lay on a minimum of 6 coats.

Before I get to the 5th coat, I'll have figured out the non skid issue. I've heard of using salt or sugar and washing off after varnishing. If I don't get a good recommendation, I probably have to try all 3 (salt, sugar, beads).

Hope this helps. Good luck and enjoy the fumes: I mean wear a carbon filter mask.

Rick
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Old 03-18-2012
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Re: Refinish Cabin Sole

Rick,

Thanks for the info. I've just started the process this weekend. I cut 3/4" plywood blanks for the sole hatches and will do them shoreside.

I decided to use a heat gun. I didn't really want the chemicals in the boat, we live aboard. It's actually pretty fast and easy to control the heat. We started on the raised sole section under the nav station. It only took an hour or so to get that all stripped.

We've got that section sanded down and there are little dings and scratches. My question is what's the best method to get rid of the grey/black discoloration in the dents that sandpaper won't get to? Teak bleaching of some form?

Ryan
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Old 03-19-2012
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Re: Refinish Cabin Sole

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVArgo View Post
Rick,
We've got that section sanded down and there are little dings and scratches. My question is what's the best method to get rid of the grey/black discoloration in the dents that sandpaper won't get to? Teak bleaching of some form?
So do you plan on just filling the dents with varnish?
Tom
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Re: Refinish Cabin Sole

Tom,

I found a good white paper on floor restoration from dakotamarine.com in CT.

Their recommendation is to fill the deeper dents and dings with epoxy, straight or with thickeners depending on the case, then sand that flush so there is a smooth, consistent surface to apply the varnish on top of. That seems like a pretty reasonable approach to me and is what I"m going to try on my test section.

They actually use two coats of interlux wood sealer before they start with the varnish, but I think I'm just going to thin my Epifanes out for the first two.

Ryan
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Old 03-19-2012
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Re: Refinish Cabin Sole

Here is how I did my floor.
1. Strip old varnish with ready-strip No bad odors and worked well.
2. Cleaned, but I'm not sure what all I used, but it wasn't enough. Probably TSP followed by oxalic acid.
3. Sand lightly so as not to go through veneer.
4. Fill dents with West system epoxy and sand flat
5. Fill them again because some didn't come out flat.
6. Coat the entire floor with two coats of epoxy because I was concerned with color differences where the dents were filled.
7. three of four coats of Varethane floor finish from Home Depot

Were I doing it again, the only thing I would do different is be more meticulous, particularly with the cleaning. I just didn't get all that ground in stuff out of the pores and the holly.
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