No pictures popped up... But track can be bent. It cannot however be reliably bent outside a machine shop. It takes some pretty specialized (well specialized for a home shop not a machine shop) to bend and not over stress the track. Failing to do this right can cause kinks, and cracks in the aluminium. Personally I would have whoever is selling you the track do it if possible.
As for adjustable cars... I would do them now. Without them you will never get the jib to really set correctly, and there will always be a lot about trimming the jib that you will never learn. If you are ok just cruising around then it doesn't matter, but if you do want to learn how to work the boat then getting them now will save you money in the long run, and accelerate the learning curve. This is particularly true if you decide to go with one very long piece of track (which I would advise against actually).
As for track length. Not only does every sail need the track in a different place forward and aft, they also need them in a different place side to side. Instead of one massive piece, I would recommend a reasonable one in the right place for your two biggest jibs, and then a smaller track for the inside jibs. This also reduces the number of holes that need to be drilled into the deck, which is nice. For really big sails (spinnaker, or codes) it is often easier to just put fixed pad eyes in the deck.
Thanks again for following up, although I confess that your last response raises more questions for me. Can you help clear some of this up, please?
First, the cars I have, and any car I was planning on upgrading to, would be an adjustable car, would it not? Pull the pin (or unscrew the pin), move the car to a better position for a given sail and conditions, and set the car there... adjusted, right? My sailing vocabulary is probably not up to speed yet.. does "adjustable car" refer to a line-adjustable car specifically? If that's the case, and you're recommending that I go ahead and spring for that type of system now, I'd certainly consider it.
Second, your recommendation for two shorter lengths of track, one inside and one outside, rather than one long one makes sense, with some caveats. Dan Pfeifer outlined a plan for adding an inside track for the reasons you mentioned, i.e., to get proper angles for smaller jibs. On the Pearson 26, the track (currently outside only) is mounted atop the raised surface on the outer part of the deck (the gunwale?). At this part of the deck, there is no core.. only fiberglass. I've attached a diagram of this.. oh, and I fixed my error in the previous post and managed to get the pic of the extended track uploaded.. sorry about that. Anyway, adding a few more holes on the gunwale isn't a big deal and shouldn't add to any leaking issues. The inner track you suggested, however, would have to be installed where the deck has a balsa core. I know that can be done, but it scares me.. I'd rather just stay on the outside and avoid any possibility of eventual moisture penetration. I've already had to replace the mast support beam and compression posts and do a little rebuilding underneath the mast step.... I'd rather not get into that again elsewhere if at all possible. Also, it'd add a bit to the cost due to the additional pair of cars needed for the second pair of tracks. My pockets aren't real deep, but I tend to buy small quantities of high quality when possible rather than the other way around.
A third question raised by your post has to do with the fixed padeyes for the larger sails. There is a pair of fixed padeyes with permanently attached blocks (exactly the same type of blocks that are currently broken on the aforementioned car that started this whole thread) on the deck that a very experienced friend told me were for the spinnaker, but they are well forward of the fore-most part of my genoa track. Is that normal?
Sorry about all the questions.. .still learning! I appreciate your help and input very much. Hopefully, I'll get up to the boat on Friday and delve into this in depth and in person.
Best to you,