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hobbits 07-18-2010 11:33 AM

1974 pearson 30
 
im having a survey done on a pearson for purchase this week.can anybody give me advice on what to look out for?also has a ferryman 10 diesel that im coming up empty on searches,i would really like to know more about this engine and have hired a mechanic to do survey on that as well?how well does a pearson 30 handle?what are the pros and cons about this boat?any help would be appreciated,thnx.

goofy57 01-18-2011 07:05 PM

Pearson 30P
 
I am also looking into buying a 1980 Pearson with a Universal diesel and would love to hear some replys on how it handles, what to look for, reliability of the motor.

CalebD 01-18-2011 07:25 PM

Goofy,
The Pearson 30' is a good sailor. We regularly race against one in our PHRF division. They are the boat for us to beat - almost never happens though.
Regarding your Universal diesel, I would guess that it has been repowered by a PO along the way. Our friends P30' still has the original Atomic 4 gas engine in their boat. You are lucky you don't have the Farymann diesel noted by hobbits, back in July. Farymann diesels are not so highly regarded and getting replacement parts for them is tough. You can get plenty of parts for a Universal diesel should you need to.

goofy57 01-18-2011 09:08 PM

Pearson 30
 
CalebD, thanks for the reply

What does PO stand for? I imagine it means it is a replacement/ after market motor.

SecondWindNC 01-19-2011 09:34 AM

PO refers to a "previous owner". I'm not so sure your Universal is necessarily a replacement. Many did have the Atomic 4, but I think some came with diesels, especially in the later model years. The '73 P30 I had was powered with the Universal diesel, and as far as I know it was original. It's a good motor, simple and reliable when maintained, and adequate for the boat.

As for the handling of the P30, I imagine you'll love it. It's a very responsive boat, and fun to sail. Mine was tiller steered, which is a blast on this size/type of boat. Gives you a great seating position and control when sailing, and stands out of the way at the dock or at anchor.

Items to check include the hull/deck joint (can be damaged by impact with pilings etc.), and sloppiness in the rudder post. Worn rudder bushings are somewhat common, but easily replaced. Also check for moisture in the deck near the chainplates.

If you haven't read it, check out this review: BoatUS.com: Boat Reviews by Jack Hornor, N.A. - Pearson 30

goofy57 01-19-2011 08:17 PM

Pearson 30
 
Thanks for the info SecondWindNC. That was helpful.

CalebD 01-20-2011 12:27 AM

So I might very well be wrong about a re-power on your boat. As SecondWindNC reports the P30 also came with a Universal diesel in the later years of it's production and the Atomic 3 or 4 engine was installed on earlier year models.
The P30' is a great boat for what it is: a coastal cruiser/racer.

RichH 01-20-2011 09:34 AM

P30s are 'outstanding sailors' for this age and type of boat. I used to race one.

Some hints to give your surveyor before survey that will itemize 'special problems' inherent to P30s:
1. carefully note how well the head door closes !!!!!! If the door jamb doesnt perfectly align (look carefully at the alignment of the 'door handle hardware') If misaligned, it denotes that the 'COMPRESSION POST' base is probably rotted, and has 'compressed' - and the BULKHEAD and the post have 'dropped' and no longer adequately support the mast and the coachroof. The top of the BULKHEAD supports the mast base, not the compression post; the 'compression post' chiefly stiffens the bulkhead and forces the bulkhead 'upwards'.
When this boat was built, Pearson drove a thin wooden 'wedge' under the 'compression post' and then simply 'tabbed' the wedge in place. Since the wedge is IN the bilge, it is highly subject to rot; If there is rot you wont be able to see it because its inside the 'tabbing'. Any rot in the wedge usually transfers also to the post base.
Its an easy fix - just cut the bottom off of the post, jack up the BULKHEAD, and replace the rot with a solid Fiberglass 'pedestal'.

Other.
• Rotted deck core at stancheon bases
• Worn out Delrin rudder bearings - there is an easy 'fix'.
• Hull distortions ... due to improper blocking when on the hard, will automatically go back to 'normal' when the boat is in the water; but, when on the hard the boat requires special blocking under only the FRONT and MIDsection of the keel bottom. If the keel is blocked under the AFT section of the keel most times the hull (aft of the keel) will GREATLY distort. If these 'distortions' alarm you (and your surveyor) and become a 'deal breaker' - have the boat 're-blocked' properly (at the POs expense), wait a week or two ... and most all the hull distortions will usually disappear.

hope this helps.


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