Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30' - Page 3 - SailNet Community

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  #21  
Old 02-15-2012
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In this market . . .keep looking . . .I've seen better for less . .
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  #22  
Old 02-16-2012
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Another vote here for walking away.
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Old 02-16-2012
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That boat in that condition with no engine probably has a negative value. It would cost far more to repair the damage in those pictures than it should cost to buy a P30 in good working order.

Hate to see that, as I have a soft spot for the P30, having owned one and had a lot of fun.
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  #24  
Old 05-05-2012
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

i bought a P30 in much better shape back in March. Looking at this one, i'll definitely pass. it will cost you too much to repair.
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  #25  
Old 05-05-2012
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

From the pics provided, all that 'weepage' around the stancheon bases indicates severe water intrusion into the deck core. Its 'Fixable' but takes a lot of work.

The pic of the compression post -- that 'black' in the post base is ROT. That C-post will need to 'additionally' have is butt end cut off, a FRG pedestal made and inserted. Does the door into head close? and does the door hardware line up? If not, it means the bulkhead has shifted in its 'tabbing flanges' (because of the previously rotted compression post) ... and thats going to be a 'problem' in realignment - can be done but 'tricky'.

On a lake, an outboard on the P30 isnt goint to be a problem if you can integrate the engine speed to an in the cockpit throttle. This boat has a tiller/rudder so steerage at low speed isnt going to be a problem with an OB, just dont attempt to steer the boat by the OB, use the tiller/rudder, and simply 'take it easy'.
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Old 05-31-2012
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

I may take a look at the boat today if it's still there. Not to buy it, just to get an idea of what they look like. I live in Guntersville so it's not like it's out of the way.
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Old 11-24-2012
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

This boat looks to be coming undone. We bought a '74 P30 this past July for $6K with a pristine A-4 and none of the structural issues described in your pictures. Some "softening" at the stanchions is a fairly common issue, especially on older boats, and can generally be repaired satisfactorily. This vessel, though, appears to have some serious issues with delaminating from the core, the compression post is a goner and I'll bet there's more. If you absolutely have to have her, pay the money for the haul out and survey but, in my opinion, it would be a ~$1000 spent for the entertainment of finding out what else is wrong. You can find a lot more boat for a little more money!
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  #28  
Old 11-28-2012
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

We have a P26 from 1975. Many of the issues mentioned above were issues that needed to be addressed, the blistering was all over the bottom, leaking at all the stanchions and cleats, and the electrical was a mess. We haven't touched he blisters yet as they seem cosmetic and very shallow. We had to rebed all of the deck hardware our first year to get the cabin dry. The electrical was the biggest challenge. The original wiring and switches had corroded and were not identified. We used Casey's guide and rewired the entire boat except for the mast which we had the yard do. It ended up being quite expensive but the fire hazard I felt it posed deemed it worthwhile. We paid less than $3500 for the P26 but more than made up with it in all of the tin-coated copper wire and marine circuit breakers. If it's ok with the Seller, I'd ask to unscrew and pull out the main panel and take a peak behind it. If everything is labeled and looks in good condition you should be ok. If it's a jumbled mess and the insulation is cracking off, you may want to take it into consideration.
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Old 02-05-2013
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

Rudder bearing replacement....Rich said I need to dig a pit to drop it,
my boat is stored outside on jack stands on asphalt, will I not be able to drop the rudder to replace the rudder bearings?
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  #30  
Old 02-05-2013
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Re: Looking at a 1974 Pearson 30'

Double check yourself.. measure the distance from bottom of rudder to the ground.. then measure the length of the stock inside the boat up to and including the top of the rudder stock, you'll need an extra inch or so of clearance to ease removal and reinstallation.

If you've got 24 " to the ground now, and 26" of rudder stock... you're out of luck. Be sure to factor in the rudder stock angle.. if it's angled the rudder will move back and down.. might gain an inch or so there....

It's quite common to need to dig a pit to get the stock out of the rudder tube.
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