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Toe rail refinish/rebed 1987 pearson

7K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  littlelizzy 
#1 ·
The deck on a Pearson 31-2 is cored. Does that core extend under the toe rails? I am wondering if I should include them in my re-bedding project this spring.

I'm doing the bow cleats and stanchions this year, and if the toe rails are bedded in solid fiber glass at the hull/deck joint, then I will ignore them for another year... or two.

Merci, and mercy.

 
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#2 ·
From a thread in SBO

"The hull and deck are through-bolted on an outward flange, and the resulting sandwich is then covered with a plastic rubrail. This method of attachment is strong but the outward facing flange is a bit ungainly and exposes the flange to damage in the event of a collision. The flange is topped off with an attractive oiled teak toerail."
... doesn't sound like any kind of core under the toerail, but this was a cursory look and chasing down the dozens of google hits might yield a better source...

https://www.google.ca/#hl=en&sugexp...75,d.cGE&fp=bad0c0d14a7acec1&biw=1920&bih=844
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
Thanks for the info, Dave. The original manual given to us by the previous owner contained plans/drawings for the P33-2, so I think your right about the designs being the same. I did notice a bump up in the deck very near the toe rail.

It will save me days if I don't have to pull a toe rail to check.
 
#6 ·
I just got back to lurking on this forum after having been away a couple of years and happened to run across this thread.

I have a 1987 31-2 (#48) and on mine the core does extend underneath the toe rails. In fact, I believe it is why my decks showed moisture on a moisture meter. The moisture ran all along the decks from the toe rail inboard about a foot(?) or so. I actually (over 2 or 3 years) drilled out/epoxied all the deck/hull bolts underneath the toe rail. Oh what fun :).
 
#7 ·
Yes, I am almost finished replacing the core under the anchor cleats. I discovered that the deck is cored under the toe rails. However, it looks like plywood and it may be epoxied. Not sure.

I removed the rotted balsa and plywood from under the cleats and was then able to view the core under the toe rail. It was solid, even though it was abutting rotted balsa core. Not sure why but very happy about that.





Sabar, does the plywood core extend the length of the boat under the toe rails?

I'll be working on that next year. Were you able to find a supplier for the plastic shield strip under the rub rail? What did you use for bedding material?
 
#8 ·
Yes, on my boat the core extended all along the toe rail. I redrilled out every deck/flange bolt hole and used a dremel tool to grind out the core on every one. The wood I ground out was of a fine and of course "moist" texture and appeared to be balsa to me.

An interesting note: What did you mean by a "bump up" in the deck. There are two other Pearsons at my marina; a 1986 28 ft and a 1986 36 ft. I noticed that these two boats have their teak rails on a raised fiberglass "coaming". Water would have to "run uphill" to get underneath the teak rails. My deck (a 1987) does not have this feature. Water can run right under the rails and into the bolt holes.

I'm guessing that this might have been done to save on costs and perhaps they put some bedding on the bottom of the teak rails but it wore off fairly quickly and 1st owners in the 80's simply weren't aware of this back then.

What year is your boat and do you have the "coaming" feature?

I just called D&R Marine about the plastic shield strip and they ran out a while ago. Perhaps in a year or two we can just go to a shop and they can 3d print it! Seems like a perfect 3d printing application.
 
#9 ·
Re the plastic shield strip. I have a Pearson 31-2 and had some rub rail damage from Sandy. The aluminum rub rail made it but the plastic strip under the aluminum rail that screws to the under side of the hull deck joint did not. I did find something that I think is very workable though for a replacement. It is plastic wire mold by a company called Legrand. sold at home depot. here is the link

(Power-Rated Raceway, 400, 800, 2300 | by Legrand)

I am in the process of using 4200 to join the flat piece to the side which had to be cut down.
I will try for some photos as I get to it. Pretty darn close though!

Good luck
 
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