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post #11 of 21 Old 09-30-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

if you want better up wind performance I would buy the new genoa first. the genoa is where most of the power comes from for up wind sailing.
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post #12 of 21 Old 10-01-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

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Originally Posted by overbored View Post
if you want better up wind performance I would buy the new genoa first. the genoa is where most of the power comes from for up wind sailing.
I agree.

Your boat is an IOR era design which is designed around a large genoa and a relatively small mainsail. You have more control over the shape of the main, and they are easy to re-cut. Unless your main is REALLY bad, consider getting a new headsail first.

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post #13 of 21 Old 10-01-2013
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Originally Posted by cghubbell View Post
I was under the impression that since my spin halyard is forward of the forestay I have no choice but to do an outside tack/jybe. If I go inside I think I'm creating a nasty chafe point...
I haven't seen any chafe. Inside/outside only refers to the sheet routing. So the spin head shouldn't be affected. I was just looking at some photos in Sailing World and they're all inside. Granted, they're all using spirit poles but I haven't had a problem.

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post #14 of 21 Old 10-01-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

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Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post
I haven't seen any chafe. Inside/outside only refers to the sheet routing. So the spin head shouldn't be affected. I was just looking at some photos in Sailing World and they're all inside. Granted, they're all using spirit poles but I haven't had a problem.
We are talking about 2 different things. With regards to gybes I prefer inside gybes meaning the lazy sheet passes between the luff of the spinnaker and the forestay. What Cghubbell is talking about is TACKING an asymmetric, so the bow is passing through the eye of the wind. This makes it very difficult to haul the clew all the way forward and around the forestay. In that somewhat unconventional situation he might have to consider tacking the sail through the fore triangle rather than around it.

Hubbell, you are correct, you could have chaffe issues. I never said it was a GOOD idea, just that you might have to do it that way!

I guess if you wanted to tack the sail in front of the forestay you could have a crew member grab the clew and an armload of sail and run it to the bow and throw it around the forestay...

I still think you are barking up the wrong tree with the whole idea though!

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post #15 of 21 Old 10-01-2013
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Tacking Asymmetric Spin

I agree, don't tack the sail, inside or outside.

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post #16 of 21 Old 10-02-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

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Originally Posted by cghubbell View Post
One of my light air problems is completely toasted sails... I believe they are original 1977, and generate all the lift of tissue paper. Budget constrains me to a new main this winter, and a new genoa next year.

.
I'd urge you to find out what sail drives your boat and what sail is more about trim and focus on that sail first.

My C36 is a headsail driven boat and I spent my sail budget buying new dacron main and Jib.

In retrospect, I should have kept the main I had and gone for a higher end cruising laminate genoa. I think I would be able to balance the boat just as well and benefit from the better shape of the laminate headsail.

You'll be far better off with a new sail that drives the boat rather than just replacing the most worn out sail.

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post #17 of 21 Old 10-02-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

Lots of things wrong with this.
1) don't use a chute upwind. It doesn't work. Ever. It's always faster to use the appropriate sail.
2) This solves the tacking problem.
3) inside and outside jibes are infront of the forestay. I think there may have been some confusion about this.
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post #18 of 21 Old 10-13-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

I agree with all of the comments of why would you tack a spinnaker. That said, you could do it like we used to tack our genoa with our stay sail. Hoist or roll out your genoa prior to tacking. Start your tack and leave the sheet set for the genoa. Let the asim slide along the genoa and inside tack your asim, then release and tack your genoa, then roll it up.

Again, it sounds like you are using the wrong sail, if you were trying to sail closer to the wind, then an up wind sail would be better. Easy your back stay to put more belly and power in the genoa.
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post #19 of 21 Old 10-13-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

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Originally Posted by cghubbell View Post
I was under the impression that since my spin halyard is forward of the forestay I have no choice but to do an outside tack/jybe. If I go inside I think I'm creating a nasty chafe point...
a. It never occurred to me that you were carrying the chute up-wind. When you said "tack," I assumed you were simply referring to what is called an inside jibe. As others have said, working sails are for up-wind.

b. No, an inside jibe does not cause chafe on the halyard since only the running of the sheets is changed. Yes, the lazy sheet now lies in an odd spot, but there is no pressure on it to cause wear.

c. As I said and others have said, in light air an inside jibe can be more practical. Once the wind starts to blow at all it will become difficult and an outside jibe easier.

The Finer Points of Inside and Outside Asymmetric Jibes | Sailing World

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post #20 of 21 Old 10-13-2013
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Re: Tacking Asymmetric Spin

I have used an asymetrical upwind. But it is a purpose cut code zero designed to sail very very close. Say 50 degrees off true wind or so. HOWEVER this is on a high budget race boat, where we have a selection of six upwind sails, and seven different spinnakers. This is not a typical budget racer.

For us, the code zero is flown from a sprint pole, with a continuous furling drum. This allows us to tack the code, by partially furling the sail up, tacking the sail forward of the head stay, then unrolling the sail on the other side.

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