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post #11 of 26 Old 02-19-2002
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Double Spinn Sheets

I agree with Ben. If you look at the jaw fitting shape one side is flat (the side the jaws open on) and the other side is rounded almost humped (opposite the opening side).
In the case of an accidental sky..either equipment or crew failure-the rounded side will not have proper clearance from the mast and jam destroying either the car or mount.
All of this discussion is somewhat academic with a toggle mounted pole.
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post #12 of 26 Old 03-27-2002
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Double Spinn Sheets

Bare with me on this one. If I am the windward spinnaker trimmer I would be standing somewhere close to the shrouds on the same side of the boat as the pole is set. (correct?)

When we begin the gybe, my job would be to tension the sheet (ie. lock it off on the self tailing winch on the cabin) and then square the pole with the guy. The mast person would then blow the guy and swing the pole across to the bowman, etc.

If I am the "new" windward spinnaker trimmer, I would set/adjust the new guy, and pick up the new spinnaker sheet and yell "flying" so the gybe can be completed i.e. main let out and helmsman steers to windward.

Is this right? I am concerned with my job as spinnaker trimmer through the gybe.

Cheers
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-27-2002
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Double Spinn Sheets

One minor point. You don''t lock off the original sheet. You need to play the sheet around the jibe until the ne guy is made up with the pole in its proper place. It is at that point that the spinacker is passed up to you. On some boats you would walk back to the cockpit, and trim boat sheets while the guy trimmer makes up the new guy and then blows off the old guy.

Jeff
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post #14 of 26 Old 04-18-2002
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Double Spinn Sheets

I thought I would give my 2 cents of knowledge on Gybing with 2 sets of sheets and guys. Having raced on a variety of race boats, the most powerful, but yet elegant and easy to use is that of a Modern 12Meter "Fiddler" Ex. America II US 46. I will review this from both the stb. trimmer to the port trimmer.12Metres and IACC boats both utilize only one (1) winch on each side for trimming any foresail. They utilize a mechanical or hydraulic clutch to lock the sheet, located between the turning block at the transom and the winch.In addition the winch has a lower free turnning drum. It works like this.

You are the guy trimmer, as the boat turns downwind, if we came off a vmg run, the guy trimmer trims both the guy, as the pole comes aft, and the sheet. Just before the "trip" you lock off the sheet and quickly remove the guy from the drum, place the new sheet on the winch and un-lock the clutch, you are now on the sheet.

You are the sheet trimmer, as the boat turns toward dead downwind you slowly ease the sheet so that the leward clew is even, or beyond the headstay. You allow enough slack in the lazy guy so that the bowman can reach the bow + 1 foot. At the time of the trip, the pole comes through the foretriangle, you lock the sheet and quickly remove the sheet from the drum and replace it with the lazy guy. As the bowman yells made and the mastman is jumping the topping lift you trim the new guy as fast a you can. When the pole is in the right position, you unlock the sheet. You are on the guy.

Regards,



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post #15 of 26 Old 08-23-2002
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Double Spinn Sheets

I sail a mumm30 and double are nice and easy to keep your spi full during gybes and also for heavy weather sailing in order to keep teh boat in control and do an easy gybe as no presure is on the guy''s untill you trim them again and you can keep sailing the boat with the sheets.

On the Mumm30 we gibe end for end with the double sheets and that is fast and easy. I would try that at first and later on maybe have a look at dipping as a crew member needst to be at the bow the boat tends to dive with is not fast.

regards,
tjerk van der veen
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post #16 of 26 Old 12-16-2002
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Double Spinn Sheets

Hi David.
Knud Reimers actually dies in 1987. in his later years he mostly built powerboats.
i own a 1941 swedish 8meter (they call it Ö8)
"Marita" was built originally as a 40sq meter Seefahrtskreuzer with a cutter rig and her mast stepped on the keel, but then they (the owwner and Reimers together) changed her into a sloop, stepping the mast on the deck a bit more foreward.
i would love to see pictures of your boat, since mine is truely a restauration project also, and a lot of the orignal stuff is gone. it ould be helpful to see how things are arranges, what deckhardware sits where, and also how the interior is set up.
your pix get mine ;-)
thank you, inka
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-28-2007
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Reimers

I am also an owner of a Knud Reimers classic 8 meter (42' LOA, 8' beam). She is a fiberglass classic that has just had the engine overhauled and will get attention to topsides before we put her in this year. I would be very interested to see photos of other Reimers that are sailing or in restoration.
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post #18 of 26 Old 01-28-2007
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Hemme-

Instead of reviving an thread that is over four years old, you really should have started a new thread instead. It is generally considered poor net-etiquette to dredge up old threads.

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post #19 of 26 Old 01-29-2007
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My mistake

I appologize for the miscommunication. I didn't notice the post date.
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post #20 of 26 Old 01-29-2007
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I totally cocur with having jaws UP!
Upward pressure from the sheets should never cause enough friction to keep the pin from moving. Just release the foreguy a bit!
It is far safer to have the jaws open upward because you can let gravity carry the pole away from the sheets, since the chute will naturally rise when eased or released.. Otherwise the pole must be lifted to release the sheets.
For dip polers, this also means the jaws(up) are open and the lines can be just layed into the jaw, whereas with the jaw down the lines must be lifted and held until the pin is tripped closed.
And also, if the pole rises to the mast, the pin will not jam into the car/loop like the jaw casting will.
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