The optimum close hauled to close hauled tack - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 07-02-2008
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Nolatom:
None taken. See my other version in it's own thread.
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2008
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Your question was for an optimum Close hauled tack with crew. Not a cruising turn!
First such a tack would not be to 6-9 on the wind indicator, more like 3-4 (40 degree to wind) close hauled.
Second, crew should not use ST at all. Time wasted wrapping and inserting handle could be used for pulling. use Enough wraps for the wind speed on the winch with max pull during the tack and cranking the handle should do it without using the jaws.. Then the tail can be placed in the jaw for securing. Just because a tool has a feature doesn;t mean it should always be used.

other:
Depending on wind speed you should not take all the turns off the old winch, how will crew hold that in 20 knots? Wait until the sail luffs up. I do leave one turn on the winch to straighten out any hockles before they feed to a turning block.

Sails are not backwinded until they fill on the back side after head to wind. This may be necessary in very light air, but should be avoided in heavy air.

The crew should be trimming the sail, not the helmsmen. They should call the optimum angle after the tack.
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  #13  
Old 07-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plumper View Post
When does the helmsman stop turning? The rest is fine.
I like to use the wind vane, rather than the wind direction instrument, to know when to stop my turn. I steer the boat just past my boat's closehauled position on the vane's index, because the tailer usually has to grind the jibsheet in the last little bit with the winch. By doing so, the jib is slightly more powerful, and the boat accelerates out of the tack better. As the tailer grinds in the jibsheet, I steer the boat up to closehauled.
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2008
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Funny that something no one has mentioned is apparent wind.
When tacking you will loose at least some speed which affects apparent wind, eyeballing a 90 degree heading before you start your tack is close enough to pick your end point, but not precise because your starting course was lifted by apparent wind.
When coming out of the tack you should go a little wide in your angle and then come back up to close hauled off the apparent wind once your speed picks back up. Trim should be adjusted all the way up, then of course constantly after that if racing.
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  #15  
Old 07-07-2008
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I'm looking for polar curves for a Pearson 303. Does anyone have a suggestion?
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Old 07-07-2008
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My jib boom does all the work, I just turn the tiller.

Don't even have to put down my drink either.

Rick
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Old 07-07-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connolly1 View Post
I'm looking for polar curves for a Pearson 303. Does anyone have a suggestion?
(You thought maybe you'd find them in a thread on tacking? )

Start a new thread on the matter please. And you might read Sailingdog's tedious post on getting the most out of sailnet. Welcome to you, as well.
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Old 07-07-2008
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Connolly1—

The post the old fart SWAY is talking about is the one in my signature.
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  #19  
Old 07-07-2008
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I hate to keep explaining this but old folks don't actually fart, they just eject dust.
Old farts therefore are simply gaseous clouds of aged butt gas - oh yeah, that's SailAway
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  #20  
Old 07-07-2008
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just tripped over this thread

chuckles, that was the most concise explanation of multi-hull tacking i've ever read.
i checked chapman's and annapolis book of seamanship, assuming it was just copied from one of these reputable publications. i must conclude you are the author of this step by step manual.
i read it aloud, exactly as written, including parenthetical pauses to get the full effect. it was almost as if i was there (painful as it would be).
may i suggest a copyright before some unscrupulous type tries to take this gem and make it his own...
i knew i had been missing something by sailing a mono, but now, i've had an epiphany, and know i must have a multi-hull now.
i was blind, but now i see...
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