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Old 09-25-2009
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how do you tack an assymetrical spinnaker?

How do you tack an assymetrial spinnaker?
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Old 09-26-2009
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Why would you decide to tack instead of gybe an assymetrical spinnaker, as it's a sail for use with the wind aft the beam? If your plan is to gybe, then long sheets that run from the clew and in front of the forestay will facilitate the manuver.
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Old 09-26-2009
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You can as the previous poster mentioned, use long sheets and jibe it in front of the fore stay. I always had problems doing this. Something would invariably hang up.Then while you are trying to fix it, the sail beats itself to death.

My personal fix is to pull the sock down over the sail, move the socked sail to the other side, then pull the sock up and reinflate the sail. Not dramatic, but safe and easy.
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Old 09-26-2009
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Yes, you can tack an asymmetrical spinnaker, especially the ones that are cut for sailing on 'up to a low close reach'. If the rigging and foretriangle configuration are 'clear' (no babystays, or other intermediate 'forestays' in the way, etc. and especially 'no sharp points, etc.' to catch/rip the ripstop) this is easily done and in the same manner as a lightweight genoa or drifter. The only difference to prevent any wraps or bubbles around the forestay is to pull the tack-line taught before the maneuver.

You can (depending on the foretriangle being 'clear', etc.) 'inside gybe' an asymmetric - an especially good technique in light conditions where there is not enough wind to 'out and around' gybe. For an 'out and around gybe' you need a minimum amount of wind to let the clew (and heavy spinn sheets) to 'blow' well forward as you gybe; with a 'inside gybe' you simply 'pull it' through the foretriange (and dont wind up with the sheets in the water or under the bow). Depends on your configuration (length) of 'mast spinnaker crane' and how vulnerable your spinn (and sock etc.) is to becoming 'eaten' by a jib furler top swivel, etc. Again, you need to pull the tackline taught before the sail crosses the 'eye of the wind' before doing this for inside/outside jibes/tacks.

:-)
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Old 09-26-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbDB View Post
....My personal fix is to pull the sock down over the sail, move the socked sail to the other side, then pull the sock up and reinflate the sail. Not dramatic, but safe and easy.
Thanks, HerbDB, I don't know why I never considered this instead of the outside gybe. I'll try that sometime; although, if I put a crew member on the task of reeling in the slack sheets, I don't have a problem with the outside gybe. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Old 09-27-2009
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Let me clairify! Tacking an assymetrical.

I race on a J120 and the asymmetrical is a Code-0, so it is made to sail at a closer angle. The tactician called to tack the code and I had to ask what???, for I had never seen nor ever performed such a maneuver, this is why I have to ask. We did proceeded with the maneuver, complete it, but with most difficulty and position loss to other boats. This is why I need to ask, what the proper way to perform the task is?
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Old 09-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowman57 View Post
I race on a J120 and the asymmetrical is a Code-0, so it is made to sail at a closer angle. The tactician called to tack the code and I had to ask what???, for I had never seen nor ever performed such a maneuver, this is why I have to ask. We did proceeded with the maneuver, complete it, but with most difficulty and position loss to other boats. This is why I need to ask, what the proper way to perform the task is?
It's pretty unusual to tack an asym spin. But there are rare times when it's done.

It's best to have crew grab the clew and walk it up and around the forestay or headstay, then back down the side deck. If you are rigged for outside jibes (unlikely), you'll have to re-run the lazy sheet prior to tack and rig it for inside. I say "unlikely" because normally you'd rig for outside jibes only in heavier air conditions, when you'd be pretty unlikely to attempt tacking an asym.

I'm not surprised you lost ground in the maneuver. Code Zeros are nice in that they help you sail a tighter reach, but if you are sailing to weather you're normally better off with the appropriate headsail. Downwind you can get better VMG with the higher boatspeed despite the wider jibe angles, but it's hard to replicate that going upwind. Were the other boats tacking their assyms?

You're on a J-120 ?! Sweet ride. That must be a fun boat to crew on!!
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John, all sumer I been playing with my asymmetrical. Inside, tacks. outside tacks. Using atn tacker, not using the atn tacker. Things, I found out.

Using the Tacker keeps the clew to the center line and makes outside gybes easy. Yes, you do give up higher reaching angles, but for me it is a good trade off. I single hand 85% of time. Slowly start the gybe by bring the bow toward the clew of asymmetrical. At the same time start to ease the working sheet. You are tying have the clew of the sail and the boat all in line 180 degrees down wind at the same time. One straight line as the wind comes over the stern. At this time release the working sheet and as the bow of the boat is coming around to the new course then start trimming with the new working sheet.

This can be done very smoothly if tension is kept on the sheets and if it is done slowly but deliberately.

I have not had much luck doing inside gybes.
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Originally Posted by bubb2 View Post
John, all sumer I been playing with my asymmetrical. Inside, tacks. outside tacks. Using atn tacker, not using the atn tacker. Things, I found out.

Using the Tacker keeps the clew to the center line and makes outside gybes easy. Yes, you do give up higher reaching angles, but for me it is a good trade off. I single hand 85% of time. Slowly start the gybe by bring the bow toward the clew of asymmetrical. At the same time start to ease the working sheet. You are tying have the clew of the sail and the boat all in line 180 degrees down wind at the same time. One straight line as the wind comes over the stern. At this time release the working sheet and as the bow of the boat is coming around to the new course then start trimming with the new working sheet.

This can be done very smoothly if tension is kept on the sheets and if it is done slowly but deliberately.

I have not had much luck doing inside gybes.

Bubb,

Interesting that your experience with inside vs outside jibes differs from mine so markedly.

I have never been a big fan of outside jibes, except in heavy air, due to the need to mind the lazy sheet and keep it from getting pulled under the boat. And we never seem to have any difficulty driving down, easing the working sheet forward until the clew is even with the headstay, then hauling the sail through with the lazy sheet.

That said, all my experience has been on boats with effectively large foretriangles (either by virtue of the fixed sailplan or due to running sprits). But I could see where a boat with a relatively small foretriangle might have more difficulty with an inside jibe due to the tight geometry.
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John, I been thinking about that also. My boat is a 30 foot Bene with a fractional rig.

The spinnaker halyard is from the top of the mast. However, my jib halyard exits the mast about 2 feet down then runs through a retainer about another foot down before it runs to the roller furling swivel.

I can get a good set on one tack but when I do a inside gybe, the spinnaker halyard wedges up under the retainer and curls the head of the sail.
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