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post #31 of 48 Old 06-06-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
One thing I forgot to suggest is that John mentioned a problem with the #2 catching on the bow cleats. That is never a good thing.

It is not unusual for race boats to have a way of fairing all non-essential cleats and other hardware to the deck or mast under way. At the very least, you can experiement with rigging a piece duct tape parrallel to the long dimension of the cleat from the deck across the horns and back to the deck.

The more permanent solution is plastic or wooden 'shoes' which slide under the horn and are tapered to the deck and have one for each horn and is held in place by shock chord through each pair of shoes. These are quick and easy to make and you just snap them on when you leave the dock and take them off after the race.

Jeff
These will work as well.

J/24 Bow Cleat

Nothing to get hooked or caught on.
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post #32 of 48 Old 06-06-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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The problems that I have with the Quantum 125 is that it sweeps the deck to the point of getting hooked on the bow cleat on every tack. I have to go forward, unhook it, then come back to trim. I can also never seem to get a good shape out of it. The luff is constantly flapping. I think it was just measured wrong.
.
Get the sailmaker out. Deck cleat... remove it, or get a couple of wiffle golfballs, tie them together with a small length of bungee, cut a small slot in each ball between a couple of the holes for the ends of your horn cleat, stick the balls on the cleat and call it good.

The luff is flapping? Do you mean leach?

Last edited by puddinlegs; 06-06-2012 at 12:28 PM.
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post #33 of 48 Old 06-06-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

Jeff, thanks for the reply and the explanation of your thoughts on IOR boats. Indeed, they can take more skill to drive and don't work well as a more forgiving boat. And I agree, there's only I can think of that I might ever consider trading my own boat for, but in the case of a Ranger 22, it's not in the same class of funk and complexity as a 1 or 2 tonner. The Santana 'tuna' is also a cool and still popular little IOR mini that's often available in good shape and little $$$ that can make a great learning platform.

I guess the trouble with lumping everything IOR together is there really are many differences between boats of the era. Something like an S&S Swan 44 is still a great cruising boat. Sure, if you're pushing the boat hard downwind in a seaway with a kite, staysail, etc... it's tough, but no one is pushing nearly as hard cruising. My own head check for IOR is something like the difference between a Carter 'Texas' one tonner, and a 37' Farr one tonner (based on design 51) that I've sailed on. The former is a horror show, the latter is a great boat that has a broad stern and sails quite well and quickly downwind. Going uphill of course is it's forte. Sailed on a mini maxi way back when that was a freight train upwind and dug a monster hole downwind when pressed. Delivery with shortened sail though wasn't an issue.

All that said, I understand your argument. I think it's the strength of the language you use that precludes any possibility that an IOR design can still work and compete in PHRF. They do. The small boats aren't that hard to deal with. Me? I'm a sucker for pretty much anything of the era that's varnished and cold molded. The beauty and beholder thing for sure!

Last edited by puddinlegs; 06-06-2012 at 12:47 PM.
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post #34 of 48 Old 06-06-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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The luff is flapping? Do you mean leach?
yes I did mean the leach. Glad someone is on the ball, because apparently I am not.


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post #35 of 48 Old 06-06-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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yes I did mean the leach. Glad someone is on the ball, because apparently I am not.
Did you tighten the leech line? Are you sailing with way too much twist?
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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Did you tighten the leech line? Are you sailing with way too much twist?
Tightened the leach line, but way too much twist. I can't make the twist go away, which is one of my reasons for not liking this sail.

Perhaps after I tune the rig according to the instructions that were linked, it will be fixed. I'm not optimistic though.


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post #37 of 48 Old 06-06-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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Tightened the leach line, but way too much twist. I can't make the twist go away, which is one of my reasons for not liking this sail.

Perhaps after I tune the rig according to the instructions that were linked, it will be fixed. I'm not optimistic though.
Without seeing picts, it's tough, but it sounds like you might be having issues with your car leads and maybe even the position of the track itself.
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post #38 of 48 Old 06-07-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

To reduce twist, move the jib cars forward.

Also, get the sailmaker out on the boat.
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post #39 of 48 Old 06-07-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

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To reduce twist, move the jib cars forward.
yep

The sheet should point about halfway up the luff.

The leach and and foot should be about the same shape.

When you think you have the sails trimmed for a close hauled with all the telltales flying aft, bear way slightly - all three sets of tell tales should break at the same time. Then head up past close hauled, all three sets of tell tales should break evenly.

The leach line is the last adjustment, just use two fingers and gently take out any fluttering of the leach. Too much leach line tension is also bad.

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Also, get the sailmaker out on the boat.
Absolutely

The best lessons on trim that I have ever had came from sailmakers.

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post #40 of 48 Old 06-08-2012
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Re: Keel shape and pointing

A keel with a sharper leading edge will stall much quicker in rough water, than one with a blunter leading edge. How sharp is best, depends on how rough the water you are racing in, and the resulting leeway angle.

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