S2 27 Class Association - Page 2

BobS2 · #11 11-12-2008

Thanks for the efforts, a mail group is a good starting point. Wish I had time to do more website stuff too.

The main bilge is clean and gets no more than a few drops in heavy rain and the icebox drainage. I hand pump it and soap it out regularly. I did notice a tiny bit or water in the cockpit lockers last weekend though. The engine sump was really nasty when I bought it, I've scraped and cleaned and scraped and cleaned, but it could still be contributing.

The water tank has been replaced very recently. Perhaps it had a similar problem as yours! It seems very accessible.

I took a quick look this weekend and the waste tank does not appear to be easy to get at. Has anyone re-done their head/hoses/tank on this model?

BobS2 · #12 11-17-2008

Hmmm though I sent a reply a few days ago, but it's not here...

There's rarely any water in the bilge. In a heavy rain, a few drops come down the inside of the mast. And some rain blows in around the hatch boards. I've scrubbed the bilge pockets out in August and besides the cooler drainage there's very little action there. I did see a little water in the cockpit locker last weekend.

I re-read the hose saturation test: wet rag in place for some time, then smell. I'll try that later today when I sneak down to the marina to do the winterizing. She's hauled out for the season and flurries are forecast.

I'll be replacing the speed log off season. The old unit is dead and I've just had gps speed info to work with. Learning to trim is fascinating and I'd like real water speed info. Besides, I'm about tired of stuffing batteries into and squinting at a handheld! Which brings up the question: where do I find the hull speed for this boat?

BobS2 · #13 11-22-2008

Third attempt to post a reply.... don't know where they go.....

The bilge is clean and gets very little water. The water tank is very recent. I'm suspicious of the engine sump though. It's hard to clean, and was very nasty when I bought her.

CrescentSail · #14 03-05-2009

Hello All,

I just purchased a 1986 S2 27 last fall. I'd like to join your group.

Joe

rperret · #15 03-07-2009

sorry for long reply - i think the hull speed is 6.12 knots....

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobS2

Hmmm though I sent a reply a few days ago, but it's not here...

There's rarely any water in the bilge. In a heavy rain, a few drops come down the inside of the mast. And some rain blows in around the hatch boards. I've scrubbed the bilge pockets out in August and besides the cooler drainage there's very little action there. I did see a little water in the cockpit locker last weekend.

I re-read the hose saturation test: wet rag in place for some time, then smell. I'll try that later today when I sneak down to the marina to do the winterizing. She's hauled out for the season and flurries are forecast.

I'll be replacing the speed log off season. The old unit is dead and I've just had gps speed info to work with. Learning to trim is fascinating and I'd like real water speed info. Besides, I'm about tired of stuffing batteries into and squinting at a handheld! Which brings up the question: where do I find the hull speed for this boat?

BobS2 · #16 03-08-2009

Thanks for the hull speed info, R. I look forward to beating it soon after launch day. That should be early April for me. We just had a freak warm weekend so there was a flock of early birds in the marina. I pulled the head intake thru hull fitting today and was please to find a dry core.
I had to look up Lake St. Clair on the map. When is ice-out up there?
What's the hull number of your boat? Cabintop or cockpit traveler? I would like to find info from someone who has rigged control lines on the cabintop traveler. Those spring pins are a pain.

Thanks

scuppers · #17 03-22-2009

>>BobS2 wrote: I would like to find info from someone who has rigged control lines on the cabintop traveler. Those spring pins are a pain.

I agree that those spring pins are a pain. After I broke my original cabintop Lewmar traveler car and blew out the rubber end cap on the track, I replaced the whole shebang with a Harken traveler with 4:1 purchase control lines. Overall, a much better system than the obsolete Lewmar with the spring pins, but likely a far more beefy system than I really needed. Two downsides for me, so far. First, the profile of the track and the end control is higher, so visibility over the cabintop is reduced. Secondly, the total travel port to starboard is a few inches less, because of the endcontrols and the longer length of the traveler car itself. I *do* like the new system much better tan the old one, however. The control lines are cleated on the end controls, and are easy to use. The lines simply hang down in the companionway.

BobS2 · #18 03-28-2009

Thanks, I've seen the Lewmar Ocean size 1 traveller kit advertised. Any opinions? The loss of range is a big consideration. Has anyone considered extending the length of the track a bit? Adding support under the track beyond the width of the hatch cover shell?
So far resetting the stock traveller in mid tack has been a bit of an exercise. I can see how an end cap blowout will eventually happen...

scuppers · #19 04-01-2009

My new Harken traveler does not have pre-drilled holes for mounting. Instead, there is a channel in the track that is designed to take stainless steel slides, whose positions are adjustable left to right. The slides have bolt holes in them. I inserted the bolts into the slides, then I simply slid the slides into the track, aligned the bolts over the old holes, snugged down the traveler (with 3M 4200 beneath and in the holes), and tightened the sucka down. In other words, I didn't have to drill new holes in the storm hood to install the Harken traveler. I did remove the vertical washboard "keepers", which allowed me to slide off the Lexan hatch. I could then access the traveler bolts from the companionway to put on the washers and locknuts without removing the storm hood (which would have been a can 'o worms that I didn't want to open! That would have required lots of rebedding of many bolts.) So my caution is this: if you get a new traveler that is predrilled, make sure that the boltholes line up with the old holes, or you are in for a LOT of additional work. The Harken slide system worked great for this.

I hope this is helpful. FWIW.

BobS2 · #20 04-02-2009

Thanks for the tips!
I ordered the Lewmar, which also has a sliding bolt channel in the track.
I'll be figuring a way to fabricate some support for the track ends to extend the width of the system to keep from losing too much travel. A block of teak on either side of the hatchcover perhaps. It looks like there's plenty of room.

As for bedding, I found a soggy chainplate bulkhead this past weekend... the pre -launch list just got a little longer.