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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2007
deniseO30 deniseO30 is offline
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Lightbulb found this blue styro board. (insulation choice)

at the Home center. It's 1/2", pretty flexibile although it does break, it's not as rigid as the pink board. Any other suggestions for insulation? I don't think anything with open cells is a good choice. (mildew) If I can find the time to redo my Vee Birth this winter I may use it behind the strip planks.

Would wider planks look more traditional? about 3"? 1/4" thick? I'm open to suggestions, we can mill it to whatever I decide. We even have bead cutters for the router! I most likely will be using up some white cedar stock I have from canoe building. And yes! Cedar dust makes me sneeze! white cedar is kind of blonde and tannish brown, varnish will darken it, poly will keep more natural. Don't think I will be staining it dark like the teak panels.

flammability is always an issue but with all the wood and fabric in the boat already....(Yes, Ihave fire extingishers aboard.)

Suggestions please!
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Old 11-01-2007
Sailormann Sailormann is offline
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The blue styrofoam should be okay - I think they are all fire retardant these days... The wider your ceiling strips are, the faster you are going to finish...
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Old 11-01-2007
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Do not worry about flammability so much, everything burns if you get it hot enough for long enough. Worry about what it emits when it burns or melts. I'd check on that, many plastics emit toxic vapors when burned.
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Old 11-01-2007
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Be aware that most foam insulation is highly toxic if it burns...produces poisonous gases.
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Old 11-01-2007
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Test a piece of the blue foam for burning. I think it goes up pretty fast. You usually need fire rated drywall over it to make a fire rated wall. Also, I know the blue stuff gives off some bad smelling VOC's when it gets warm.
Since your in the HVAC biz as I am, How about armaflex. You can buy sheets of it from United. It has a low smoke test for plenum ceiling ratings, very flexible, closed cell, high R rating per inch and you can buy it wholesale.
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Old 11-02-2007
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Good idea Wayne! thanks! Although it's $$ wholesale too! All considered, by time the hull insulation starts giving off gas I'd be dead or gone anyway.
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Old 11-02-2007
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Probably cost more, but: http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/na...insulation.htm
Better fit, better insulation, DIY and closed cell.
nuff said.
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Old 11-02-2007
deniseO30 deniseO30 is offline
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chuckles another good Idea! (one I really like)

Now .. abut the planking.. what's the word on that everyone? I'm thinking 3" with beaded edges and or vee grooves. It is not good have space between the planks is it? (need to breath and expand/contract)

Oh.. and the ceiling I think will have to be done first. the deck is cored so short screws will work on holding things like mock beams to it. Epoxy works too of course!
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Old 11-02-2007
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Denise-

You do want to have a slight gap between the boards for the ceiling on your boat. That way any condensation can evaporate. I wouldn't use screws into the deck, since any water leaks can cause water to run along the underside and capilliary action will wick water up into the core. Epoxying the furring strips to the hull is a much better idea IMHO.

BTW, the sides of the interior of a boat are referred to as a ceiling, and the "ceiling" of a boat's interior is generally called an overhead.
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Old 11-02-2007
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This company located in Mays Landing, NJ has teak bullnose 1/4 x1 1/8 for .75 a lin. ft. Would make a nice looking ceiling.

http://www.sjlumbermans.com/molding/
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