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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Boat Review and Purchase Forum > Sailboat Design and Construction
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  #1  
Old 02-17-2008
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Hull Question

I went out looking at a boat today - the hull is Cold moulded strip-built wood, encapsulated in epoxy. However, there are serious peels in the paint at the plank edges all along the hull both interior and exterior.... Is this something that can can actually be fixed - survey done stated that hull was sound - but less than grinding it smooth and adding a layer of 4 oz glass with epoxy both outside and inside and re-fairing...is the only solution I can think of - but worried if this is actually an indication that moisture is in the hull and causing it to pop out...I probably might not want to go into that nightmare...

if the visible symptoms on the hull as described above can be fixed by method stated or other suggested means - I may take on the project...as its sparse and relative easy going ...

Any input?
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Old 02-17-2008
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Jody...I'm a bit confused...why would a cold molded boat need to be encapsulated in epoxy? Was there a problem with the boat or was it merely strip planked without being cold molded and then encased in epoxy? If the latter...run away.
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Old 02-17-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie View Post
Jody...I'm a bit confused...why would a cold molded boat need to be encapsulated in epoxy? Was there a problem with the boat or was it merely strip planked without being cold molded and then encased in epoxy? If the latter...run away.
Honestly no idea - having been merely a Catalina owner - Its a 1960's Buchan if that helps...what bothers me is the paint / hull shows indentions of the planks in some areas both sides .... perhaps just a poor job done by previous owner that didn't properly use the right primers etc...I think though the method was simply used at the time...
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Old 02-17-2008
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Its unlikely that a 1960's era boat is cold molded. There were some experimental cold molded boats built in the early 1970s' but it was really the mid-1970's before epoxy saturated cold molded construction began to be popular. Prior to that molded plywood boats were typically hot molded in an autclave. Also in the late 1950's and early 1960's ashcroft and double planking were popular construction techniques which would look similar to cold molding but which have few of the desirable characteristics of cold molding.

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Not gonna get into a debate whether or not boats were cold molded at what time etc... wasn't the question - that is what the surveyor report stated so naturally I included it - so perhaps he was in err - or someone previously did some glassing and decided it had more market value ...The boat date is probably 1959 - 1960 as only 8 were ever made before Buchan started making the 37's....

Assuming it is just strip planked (likely) and heavily painted over - is it normal for plank edges to pop through and is it of consequence that the paint is bubbling around those edges and not apparently within the mass of the plank area...interior wise I noted it was latex and not marine paint....Since it was a race boat at one time - I would suspect some of that may be the cause...

If not of consequence can sanding down to wood (white cedar planks were used) epoxy over and then clear it or paint - will that do the trick... Internally and probably externally I will glass in just for the abrasion resistance and stiffen it up a bit more...
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Old 02-17-2008
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It sounds like you already have a plan of action.

I am not a wooden boat owner but I have seen these kinds of boats being lovingly re-planked. One thought on wooden planked hulls: every so often you need to replace the fasteners (screws) that hold it together. On a boat built circa 1960 I think it might be time to check into this. I am not sure if this might explain the problems you describe with the 'plank edges' or if it is the butt ends or longitudinal ends or both.
A picture or two might be helpful.
Old boats are great but require work. Wooden boats more so.
Good luck.
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I wonder if it is in fact cold moulded, rather built conventionally with caulking between the planks. At that age subsequent fibreglassing may well have had problems with adhesion. The flaws in the paint may be from movement in the seams.
If so you may well have problems with the fasteners, seams, and movement and adhesion. On the wooden boat forum they seem anti this practice presumably for these reasons.
In contrast I thought coldmoulded boats often had fibreglass sheathing - it is usual here presumably as a protective sheath.
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Old 02-17-2008
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Given the age of the boat, I doubt it is actually a cold-molded boat. That's why it's having the problems with paint adhesion that it is... a cold molded boat is a very specific type of construction and generally results in a very light, very strong, fairly low maintenance boat.

I'd say that this boat is one to run away from... BTW, who paid for the survey saying the hull is sound... Just curious.
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Old 02-17-2008
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You might still be able to find Bill SR right now, just call up any of the Buchan home builders for info on dad or gpa!

One of the sons is in the med sailing a TP52 Glory

But, as mentioned, that is an old boat! Building he built it in was in the Totem lake area of Kirkland.

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