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Soft spots under teak decks.

9K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Boatsmith 
#1 ·
concerning boats with fiberglass decks with teak runners? on top, would one be able to feel soft spots in the fiberglass by walking on the teak portion or some other way, particularly if the teak is solid and shows no indication of rot? Would a surveyor be able to tell during his inspection? I'm mainly referring to the portion of the deck between the rail and the raised portion of the cabin that runs continously from the stern to the bow. Sorry, don't know all the terminology, yet. :eek:
 
#2 ·
Yes, teak decks are an issue. On most boats, the teak is fastened using screws and the screws go into the cored deck underneath. If the teak caulking isn't properly maintained, there is often (almost always in fact) a leak of water into the cored deck. This leads to a very expensive deck re-coring job. While I love the way teak decks look, I'd never buy a boat with one. They're a huge maintenance issue and have a lot of problems with core delamination of the deck underneath them.
 
#3 ·
Thank you SD for the reply. you affirmed my suspicions, but how can one tell if a teak deck that appears to be solid be hiding soft spots or the compromising of a core deck underneath? I'm thinking of the scenario where someone refinishes and/or replaces some partially rotted deck planks? but skips on the potentially bigger issue of repairing a saturated core and then tries to sell it. Any thoughts?
 
#5 ·
If there is no overhead liner, you can sometimes check the underside of the deck from inside the cabin-either by tapping or by using a moisture meter. If there is an overhead liner, you're basically SOL
 
#6 ·
Oh yeah! While shopping for boats from the Ta Shing yard I got pretty good at determining the state of those decks and what it might take to repair.

SD is IMO right, stay away from those decks unless you are up for it.

Some decks will feel soft, some will deflect when you step or jump on them, sometimes you can tell by tapping of hitting. Many will have signs of moisture. The broker will often suggest it is just condensation or minor leakage.

Also check around the portlights. These teaky boats need lots of mtce over the years. It only takes one owner to slack off. The portlights leaking make the little deck job a bigger one.

Determining the amount of leakage that has occurred over the years is very difficult. Those who claim to have done it appear more lucky than anything else as shown by the number of small deck repairs that become major projects.

But I did see some older boats, one 26yrs old, with perfect teak decks, no leakage, rock solid cores, well kept and maintained. Do not buy those boats!

Those boats sell for more than the other boats with obvious problems yet they really are not much better. To keep them in that shape you too will also have to store them inside, do regular maintenance, and not use them much.

All meaning extra time, money and labour for less use. If you slack off, then you too have a teaky that you insist is perfect but will have moisture problems preventing the resale.

IMO If you want teak decks buy a boat that does not have teak on it. Then go out buy the strips of teak and screw them down yourself. Properly installed, sealing every screw hole (there will be about 1,000) with epoxy or sealant, the deck should last a long time, at least as long as you own the boat. Of course when you sell, you’ll be trying to sell a teaky.

I think they are worth it if you are willing to pay and accept the issues. Wasn’t for me, if I was that keen on a teak deck I’d buy a wooden boat.

On the other hand, I did see several boats with very soft decks that were being sailed all over the world and the owners loved them.
 
#7 ·
Architeuthis, good points.

Maybe this is a segway for another thread. With the advances of sealants and adhesives and float/semi-floating flooring (thinking home applications), what about a tongue-n-groove type teak deck with an adhesive backing, which wouldn't require being attached to the deck with fasterners, thereby eliminating leaking holes?

Sounds like an idea, though I think Jeff H or someone mentioned wood decks radiate/reflect more heat than just a fiberglass deck.

I too absolutely love the look of a stained and sealed teak deck, but I don't love it so much to want such a huge heatache. Hmmm, sounds like some women I've seen. LOL
 
#8 ·
Well, apparently I'm not the first to think of glueing teak planks to decks. Story of my life. I found a thread here from 2006. Sailingdog posted, as well as Jeff H. Jeff mentioned the various installation methods of installing, as well as a thorough explanation of how teak oxidizes, deteriorates, along with the pros and cons of how to maintain it. Of course, I can't find the name of the thread now, but the contributors were very informative even back then as they are now.
 
#10 ·
By the square foot.. ;) Also, depends on how much damage has been done to the underlying deck
 
#12 ·
thanks for answers . i am considering west sail with teak decks in need of repair. owner insists deck has no leaks. but got in present shape from lack of service for a long time. screws have been removed, owner says longer screws are needed. i say remove teak and refinish deck this is west sail 32 cored deck. any comments?
 
#15 ·
Teak Decks..

Good points here on the teak decks over fiberglass. If this were a boat I was conducting a survey on, I would first check the condition of the teak, then check the condition of the underlying fiberglass (most likely from the underside (inside the anchor locker, behind cabin bulkheads, interior linings, etc). The next thing I would do is use a moisture meter to see if there is excessive moisture in any area that is of concern. Most older fiberglass vessels have a wood core between the inner and outer layers of fiberglass (usually of balsa wood). If the core gets wet then you may have wood rot happening which causes the spongy spots and even delamination of the fiberglass. Sometimes just the way the fiberglass was applied at the factory will leave air spots in the layers of fiberglass which is why you get the spongy feel. An experienced surveyor can assertain all of this by conducting different tests on the hull. If it is wood core rot, it has to be cut out and replaced. If it is just a small void in the fiberglass where air got trapped, it is usually something you can live with unless it annoys you enough that you have to have it replaced. Keep in mind that most surveyors do unintrusive testing on hulls, the only sure fire way to know is to cut into the core to verify for sure. Tell tale signs of wood core intrusion is spotting excessive crazing in the fiberglass, or corrossion through hull fittings or fasteners (like chainplates or cleats) where water has gotten in and settled in the core. Hopefully that would not be the case.
 
#16 ·
Any thoughts on a boat like the Nauticat, which does not have cored decks (they are solid glass) and the screws do not pierce the deck?
 
#17 ·
If the teak decks have been well maintained, they shouldn't be an issue. If they haven't and the boat is a northern boat, there is a chance that water could have gotten into the fastener holes and frozen over the winter...causing damage.

In general, a boat with well-maintained teak decks isn't going to be a problem. It is the boats where the teak decks were not properly maintained and have begun to let water get by that have issues, whether the deck is cored or not. Cored deck boats will have bigger issues than solid fiberglass decked boats, but there can be issues with either.
 
#18 ·
Never ever attach a deck with screws. They will leak, sooner or later. We epoxy down our decks with no penetrations. New teak decks will cost around $100-140 a sq ft plus removal and substrate repair if required. Removal and replacement with painted nonskid will cost 50-60 % of that. The real bugger with any replacement can be the hardware. Sometimes there will be a lot of hardware mounted through the teak which will have to come off and be reinstalled. new bolts /screws, bedding compound, and labor. The labor can add a lot to the cost of the project. Especially if some of the interior has to be dismantled for access. These factors combined are what will reduce the value of an older sailboat or trawler with teak decks that have lived their useful life.
 
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