Runners to the toe rail? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 34 Old 04-21-2011
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My understanding is that a Solent stay doesn't need runners due to the proximity of its attachment point to the forestay attachment (in the case of an I-28, to the masthead) as long as it's within about 5% of the I dimension. However, I suppose this could vary, particularly with different mast sections, and your desire to use the staysail as a heavy-weather sail may make using runners prudent.

OK, full disclosure...I've been thinking of adding a Solent stay to my Cal 2-27, so I would be interested to hear how this works out for you. In my case, I was thinking of using the Solent for a working staysail jib (95-100%) and keeping the 145% I have on the existing roller furler.

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post #12 of 34 Old 04-21-2011
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Downeast's inner stay will be 50" aft of the headstay and 12' below the masthead. That does need runners and is really a staysail stay and not a Solent. A Solent is much closer to the forestay and masthead. Often only 12" to 18" aft of the headstay fitting and within a few feet of the masthead. It does not need runners. Because it is removable it is not in the way of the normal headsail - it is only there when needed.

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post #13 of 34 Old 04-21-2011 Thread Starter
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Steady,

I will not be within 5%. I want my solent stay to run parallel to my head stay. To find the spot to mount the chain plate I have decided to use the bulkhead that runs athwart ship just at the aft end of the anchor well. I am following the solent stay solution used on SV Sarah. See: Solent Stay.

I won't get to it this spring I am busy with other things on the boat. I may get the sail track installed on the mast for the storm tri. I can do that on the mooring a little at a time. I have shared my drawings with a marine custom hardware mfgr and was given $350.00 as the quote for the two deck plates (chain plate and backing plate/brace) in polished stainless. I am not sure I care if it is polished but that is their standard. I might save a few dollars if I can convince them to leave it dull. That way it will match the rest of the weathered condition of the hardware on our 1976 boat. For the runners I intend to use ALEXANDER-ROBERTS Ball Swage Fittings. My riggers advise me to use machine screws and no rivets anywhere.

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post #14 of 34 Old 04-21-2011
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Polished stainless is much more corrosion resistant than unpolished stainless.

Your stainless may be dull with age but unpolished stainless can rust quickly.

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post #15 of 34 Old 04-22-2011
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Oops. I read that as 12" rather than 12'. I saw "Solent stay" and just assumed that it would be attached close to the forestay attachment. My bad.

Which begs the question, "What exactly defines a Solent stay??" I always thought (apparently, like Brian) that it was a inner headstay attached close to the forestay attachment on the mast and somewhat aft of the stem at the bottom. The width of the slot is usually quite a bit less than that of a conventional inner stay, since the sail isn't meant to be used at the same time as any other headsail (except perhaps another headsail set in a "wing-and-wing" sort of fashion). Is that not right? If it isn't, what differentiates a Solent stay form a conventional inner headstay?...I'm so confused...

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post #16 of 34 Old 04-22-2011 Thread Starter
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Solent stay vs Inner Head Stay?

I don't know. As I have been looking for information to help with my installation the two terms seem to overlap. I think it is as much about its intended use than its location. I want an "inner head stay" to hank on a storm jib that is cut to ride high and balance a storm tri sail. I do not intend to use it as a second head stay to carry a second head sail as the inner head stay of a cutter rig would. The Islander 28 is a balanced rig and attempting to add a head sail location for use with the regular main makes no sense to me. I have sufficient reef points on both my head sails and my main to handle all but those weather conditions that are truly humbling. I enjoy a good blow and this little boat can put its shoulder down and enjoy one too. I just want to extend our cruising comfort/safety zone. Staying on the mooring because the gale warnings are flying or are in the forecast means you miss some exciting and spectacular time on the water..

The advances we have enjoyed in the boats navigation aids have contributed to the likely hood we will be venturing out when the weather window is a bit less favorable than before. With the addition of radar (this year), XM weather, AIS, GPS and all the related safety and communication tools, my comfort level with adverse weather conditions is going up. Clothing is also making things out there more comfortable in extreme conditions. Our last haul out date was December 14 here on Mount Desert Island. Six months for sailing and six months for skiing. I love Maine. I will be chartering if I need a coral reef fix.

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post #17 of 34 Old 04-22-2011 Thread Starter
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Brian,

Thanks, polished it will likely be. The fabricators did make the point about corrosion. Is that true of aluminum, too?

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post #18 of 34 Old 04-22-2011
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Aluminum is anodized for protection usually, at least in the case of hardware and booms and masts. Aluminum will get a thin oxidized layer if left bare that will protect it but it is a dull grey and anodizing looks better.

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post #19 of 34 Old 04-29-2011
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Is the boat single or double spreaders?
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post #20 of 34 Old 04-29-2011
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OK, I started at the beginning and see that it is an I-28, my design.
If you drop that inner forestay down past 30" from the masthead you will need runners. But yes, if you lead them all the way aft I think the toe rail can take the load.

If you want to be safe build a bracket of alu that spans two or three holes in the toe rail and spreads the load out over more than just one hole.

But I really this is pretty elaborate for a 28' boat. Can't you just change down to a smaller jib on the headstay. I have a 26' boat. I use hanked on sails and I have two jibs. That's it. I change to the small one when it blows. Changing jibs is not much work on a boat that size.
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