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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Boat Review and Purchase Forum > Sailboat Design and Construction
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  #21  
Old 12-31-2011
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Say what?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfchallenger View Post
Well I have a furler (came with the boat), but it works with my hanked on sails. I have a 110 jib that is appropriate for winter conditions and a #3 that I use in the summer on the bay. Furling is not reefing, and while I have jib cars that adjust from the cockpit, I would strongly advocate a sail change over a furled reef. So many problems can arise with the lack of ability to reduce sail area in a hurry that I don't see a reason to risk it.
I'm assuming this post was in response to mine. It makes little sense to me so I want to respond. "Furling is not reefing", but you would advocate a sail change over a "furled reef"? Though you are technically correct, as I think you just confirmed, the term reefing a Head sail is used to describe partially furling it, as opposed to furling it completely.
Your jib cars are adjusable from the cockpit, yet you think it's safer to go on the fore deck to perform a sail change?
You're concerned about reducing sail area in a hurry? I can single handedly partially (aka reef), or completely furl my head sail in less than a minute. I'd like to see someone douse and set a new head sail in that amount of time. Now...Is a reefed Headsail as efficient as a properly sized hanked on sail? Absoulutely not (IMHO). Maybe we can agree there!
Once again, off topic, but I couldn't let these comments go.

Last edited by L124C; 12-31-2011 at 04:05 AM.
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2012
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Originally Posted by peterchech View Post
It is a 1981 hunter 25, cherubini designed, with shoal draft keel. I am actually very fond of the boat, even though it is not as sturdily built as some other brands (I can see sunlight through the glass in some of the upper parts of the hull).
The only thing I might contribute to this discussion, is that you shouldn't sell your boat short. The Cherubini Hunters have a very good reputation.
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Old 01-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
A properly tabbed bulkhead has either foam or a gap between the actual bulkhead and the hull and is heavily tabbed. It shouldn't flex any more than the hull itself flexes.

If the bulkhead is tabbed lightly or in only a few places it is not strong enough.
Thanks for the informative post! Interesting, since I have built several stitch and glue boats and have always tabbed directly to the hull, but with a thickened epoxy fillet covered by the glass. I am surprised that the bulkheads in my boat seem to be simply glassed with roving, and no epoxy fillet. I recently retabbed the galley furniture to the hull (it was cracked and loose) with an epoxy fillet and two layers of 10 oz glass cut as a "tape" with about 4 inches overlap per side and it is pretty solid now.

As far as reefing the furling jib goes, I always move the jib cars when I reef. But this is only effective up to maybe 15 or 20% reefed before it turns into a parachute. I am either going to add a solent stay in the spring, or just take out the furler altogether. I need a new jib anyway. Btw my jib is I think a 110.

Last edited by peterchech; 01-08-2012 at 01:41 AM.
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