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post #1 of 24 Old 04-09-2012 Thread Starter
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Islander 36

Hi,

Does anyone have any knowledge about the durability of 1970's Islander 36's. I am thinking particularly in terms of osmosis.
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post #2 of 24 Old 04-09-2012
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Re: Islander 36

I think these are lovely boats and for the most part they stand the test of time. But I have to say that the worst cases of osmosis I've seen around the yards in the last 15-20 years have often been I-36s. That's not say other boats don't suffer too, but the I 36s I've seen with 'blisters' seem to have had large ones (dime sized and up) and lots of them.

In our club there's a cherry I-36 that's a beauty.. but it's very well looked after.

Ron

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post #3 of 24 Old 04-09-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Islander 36

Hi Faster,

Thanks for the honest information - I was hoping otherwise, but it is best to be prepared if I am thinking of buying one.

Regards

Miles
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post #4 of 24 Old 04-09-2012
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Re: Islander 36

There's always a possibility (even probability) that you'll find one that's been treated or repaired.. there were plenty such jobs undertaken in the 80s when this 'feature' of FG boats reared its head.

Epoxy barrier coats have 'resurrected' a lot of boats over the years. There's also the school of thought that, esp with solid glass hulls, osmosis is often an unsightly, but mostly cosmetic issue..

Ron

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".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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post #5 of 24 Old 04-09-2012
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Re: Islander 36

Great boats, well made. Weak points? The rotting rubber hoses below the water line for the cockpit drains, and the big companionway hatch, together with enough room to get thrown and hurt below.

Nothing that can't be dealt with. Islander generally built a great boat.
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post #6 of 24 Old 04-09-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Islander 36

Hi Faster and hellosailor,

Yes, the osmosis would not faze me and I was sort of expecting it to be the case, just hoping there might have been a better story. I haven't heard of yachts sinking on passage because of osmosis, but if they have I am sure I will hear about it on here.

Ha, the being thrown around. Funny how few boats I see listed in the US with Lee cloths (as in for the main cabin berths) - or maybe at such times a bucket and the cabin sole is the best place to be :-)...

Thanks for your help and guidance...

Do you have any opinions on the spars and standing rigging? - I get the impression, as must be the case in many parts of the world, that a lot of yachts don't get a lot of use. I know people say that you should replace the standing rigging every 10 years, but I don't think many people do.

Obviously it's a relatively easy task to check all the rigging fittings except to be able to know what is happening inside the swages...

I guess the Islander 36 has a balsa core deck, and there is the chance of a soft deck given any poor installation of deck fittings?

Is the hull and deck joint on these yachts pretty reliable?

Please bear with me! I am just trying to become as informed as possible to reduce the possibility of doing something stupid. I think you could call it "risk management"! :-)

Thanks again,

Miles
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post #7 of 24 Old 04-09-2012
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Re: Islander 36

Pretty well all the issues you're bringing up are general ones that will apply to any boat built in the 70s and 80s, and certainly not exclusive to Islanders.

ALL those problems are possibilities.. the trick is being informed enough and do your due diligence to eliminate the candidates that have too many of the possible issues compared to others, taking the price into consideration too, of course.

It's easy to be tempted by the 'cheap' boat and pass on one priced 5-10K higher, but in reality the more expensive purchase may well cost you less in the long run (fewer fixes in your immediate future) Keeping a boat in good condition is infinitely easier than bringing one back to it - not easy, but much easier.

Also in that era there are other good candidates too, so maybe don't get fixated on that one model. CS, C&C, Sabre, Catalina, etc are just a few examples of equally viable choices if an I-36 would satisfy you.
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Ron

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post #8 of 24 Old 04-10-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Islander 36

Hello Faster,

Yes, certainly - I hear what you say....

There seem a lot of Catalina 38's around and I did like these - I just got the impression that these would be a little bit more of a handful being short handed than the I-36 - and I didn't really like the idea of something much smaller than the I-36 - like a Cal 34? I also thought of something like the Ericson 35, but felt the I-36 to be the better of the two yachts.

It is a juggle and I am well aware of how expenses creep up on you and the dream turns into a nightmare.

I think in the back of my mind was the question as to if these older yachts where just completely shot, or maybe they generally get an easy life on the West Coast as some may have done little sailing? - just been immersed in the water all this time - hence the concern for the osmosis.

It's not an easy task to balance all these things up, yet some people just seem to buy a yacht and go!

I certainly have a price range that covers a base price plus $10,000 dependent on the condition and equipment. Most West Coast yachts do not seem to have a great deal of extra cruising gear, so that has to be on top as well.

The responses I am getting do give me some better insight I guess and that is the most I can hope for.

Thanks.

Regards....
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post #9 of 24 Old 04-10-2012
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Re: Islander 36

Quote:
Originally Posted by milesinnz View Post
Do you have any opinions on the spars and standing rigging? - I get the impression, as must be the case in many parts of the world, that a lot of yachts don't get a lot of use. I know people say that you should replace the standing rigging every 10 years, but I don't think many people do.
The automatic replacement of rigging at 10 years grew out of boats sailing in the tropics - the salinity of the water , sun and generally strong winds cause it to deteriorate faster there.

In higher latitudes, simply check it - high magnification inspection of swages, especially the lower ones, for any indication of crevice corrosion and the "slip" test of the wire to check for meat hooks - broken strands of wire. Wrap tissue paper around the wire and slide it the full length. Any broken strands will snag bits of the paper. Real men do it bare handed and blood marks any broken wires.

Keeping swage fittings, turnbuckles, toggles etc. clean and polished will extend their life as well as keeping your boat looking better.

P.S. the Cat 38 is only a little bigger than the I36 - for practical purposes they are quite comparable. The hulls are from the same design era.
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I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.

Last edited by SloopJonB; 04-10-2012 at 01:33 AM.
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post #10 of 24 Old 04-10-2012
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Re: Islander 36

Not really and indication of durability or the suitablity of the boat, but if a 16 year old can make it around the world on an I-36...

Although, I think Dad had to make a bulkhead repair part way.

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