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Anchor Setting Woes

12K views 63 replies 30 participants last post by  Maine Sail 
#1 ·
The Admiral and I have had some issues getting our anchor to set recently needing several tries to get it done.

We are in the Chesapeake (read: mud) and use a Danforth as our primary. 30 ft of chain and usually at least 5:1 scope

I am on the anchor and the wife is driving. General process is approach drop spot, coast to stop into wind, drop anchor and enough chain to hit bottom plus extra while boat begins to drift in reverse. Typically avoid piling chain on top of anchor.

Trying to narrow down the problem (procedure, anchor drop, driving, anchor type/condition). Would like to set it on one attempt and feel comfortable anchoring in tight quarters. Also, would like to reduce the discussions between anchor person and helms-lady :) and not be those people who have attempt a set 4 times.

Once set we usually back down under throttle and are good to go.

Advice welcome

Josh
 
#2 ·
Beleive or not the Chesapeake has many many varied varieties of bottoms.
For instance the Chester River has at least three. Greys Inn Creek is hard clay under small amount of mud, Corsica is dark black mud, Cackaway on Lankford Creek can have leaves and grass further back. All within 3 miles of each other.

This demonstrates the need for a good all round anchor. Ground tackle is very important in many ways especially in an emergency when you don't want to worry if it will set and hold. Another important consideration is what happens if the anchor pulls out. Will it reset immediately. Any anchor can pull out.

I would suggest on of the two new generation anchors Roncna ( we have) or Manson Supreme. We have never had an issue setting it, and 98% first time.
What size boat?

In terms of your technique, your first steps seem correct, just remember what 5 means. You add the depth of the water and take the distance from the water to your roller ( basically freeboard) and then take it times 5. My boat has 7 foot freeboard at bow, so in 8 feet of water it's 7+8 = 15 ft X 5 ( scope)= 75 ft of rode. In your case 30 ft or chain + 45 ft of line. I also prefer 7:1 when I can or in wind over 10.

After allowing the anchor to hit the bottom, wife puts the boat in reverse at idle and after the chain is deployed and under the water, I would cleat the rode and let it grow taunt. After turn raise the RPM of the engine in reverse some and set the flukes of the anchor. Then let out the rest of the rode. All done with hand signals.

Having a good anchor is important to safety as well as peace of mind when sleeping and when the wind pipes up. No anchor s good in all conditions, but some are ( in most ) like the new generation ones. Small price to pay.

Dave

The Admiral and I have had some issues getting our anchor to set recently needing several tries to get it done.

We are in the Chesapeake (read: mud) and use a Danforth as our primary. 30 ft of chain and usually at least 5:1 scope

I am on the anchor and the wife is driving. General process is approach drop spot, coast to stop into wind, drop anchor and enough chain to hit bottom plus extra while boat begins to drift in reverse. Typically avoid piling chain on top of anchor.

Trying to narrow down the problem (procedure, anchor drop, driving, anchor type/condition). Would like to set it on one attempt and feel comfortable anchoring in tight quarters. Also, would like to reduce the discussions between anchor person and helms-lady :) and not be those people who have attempt a set 4 times.

Once set we usually back down under throttle and are good to go.

Advice welcome

Josh
 
#3 · (Edited)
The Admiral and I have had some issues getting our anchor to set recently needing several tries to get it done.

We are in the Chesapeake (read: mud) and use a Danforth as our primary. 30 ft of chain and usually at least 5:1 scope
You don't state what kind of boat you have, but I will assume you have the average 30-35 sailboat. I will also assume you have the typical fin keel underbody configuration, which will sail from side to side at anchor.

The Danforth is one of the best anchors for the Chesapeake, which usually presents mud or sand on top of mud bottom, without too many plants. The Danforth flukes will dig in deeply in most Chesapeake anchorages and can flip and reset easily if there is a change in wind direction. There is no better anchor for the Chesapeake. Your greatest difficulty will be pulling it out of suction from the bottom the next morning (and cleaning off all the grey mud).

Why 30' of chain? Why only 5:1 ratio?

I use only 6-10' of chain and usually go with 10:1 ratio or more. For my Pearson 28, I carry 2 relatively light 200' nylon 3-strand anchor lines, one at 3/8" and one at 1/2". I typically let out half the line, or 100 feet in calm weather when I am in 10 feet or less of depth. If the wind picks up or a front comes through, I will release the rest of the anchor line. The great length of line and relatively small diameter allows for considerable stretch, which helps keep the anchor set. The Danforth works best with a high ratio, as every pull causes the anchor to dig in even more deeply, instead of pulling it up and out of the bottom.

The Chesapeake has so many beautiful, well-protected anchorages with relatively shallow water, there is really no reason why you should ever have an uncomfortable night or drag your anchor. You do not have to contend with any great forces moving the boat or exposure that you might have in other areas of the country. Avoid the crowded spots - not only will you have difficulty using the right length of anchor line, but you may also be affected by someone else who drags during the night.

Keys to anchoring in the Chesapeake.

1. Pick the right place to anchor - protected 7 -15' depth, plenty of space to sail at anchor. You can almost always find an isolated spot where you are protected from all directions and still pick up some cooling breezes. There is no reason to anchor in the open, an exposed area, or to feel crowded. (Buy Shellenberger's "Cruising the Chesapeake" for insight into the best spots.)

2. Use three strand nylon anchor line with a small bit of chain, maybe 10'. Three strand nylon is light weight and will stretch up to 50% of its length. It absorbs shocks so well that it allows the anchor to set better. There is no need for chain in the Chesapeake Bay - few rocks, no coral, rarely anything that could cut your anchor line. While you need some additional weight near the anchor, a great length of heavy chain could actually inhibit your anchor from setting or re-setting properly in the Chesapeake. Further, why should you subject yourself to dealing with such a heavy anchor rode, when you could be easily handling something much lighter, easier on your hands, and more suitable for this environment?

3. I like to turn off the engine, drift into the anchor spot, drop the anchor gently to the bottom, and allow the boat to drift where it will, while I slowly pay out the anchor line in order to set the anchor, allowing the 10:1 ratio mentioned, or more, then snubbing it down to set it. It takes some time, but at least your boat will be initially set in the right direction and the anchor will dig in. Your anchoring position may not be simply a matter of wind direction, but may also be influenced by the current, tide and coastal configuration in the area.

If you back up using the engine (I know the seamanship books recommend this), you are forcing the set, deciding the direction of the set, and the natural motion of the boat may reset the anchor, resulting in a bad anchor set and dragging when the wind picks up. Even if you look at how the other boats are riding to determine how you will back up, your particular boat may ride differently at anchor. While it may feel a little odd at first to allow the boat to drift in order to set, you will end up with a better anchoring position.
 
#9 ·
To say there is no better anchor than a Danforth, even for the Chesapeake goes against all tests done by Practical Sailor, Mantus and even our own MaineSail'. It simply isn't so. The " new gen" anchors perform better and reset better not only in their tests, but my own personal experience having used both. Bottoms are different in different creeks even. A small creek like Granary or some of the Severn River ones in the fall will have a layer of leaves on the bottom from the surrounding trees. While a Danforth is a good anchor, I would suggest an anchor which is better in more bottoms conditions you will face as you really don't knw what you are anchoring in till you pull it up. Look on the docks at the sailboats. You will see fewer Danforths than others. The tests are dramatically different also ergo their growing popularity over the last 8. Most people with new gen anchors love them and will tell you they sleep better now.

James, have you used one of the new gen anchors on your boat.? Have you made an actual comparison yourself?

Minnie described the methods I use to set the anchor much more completely than I did. :):)Make sure you back down with the engine. If you don't, and you set the anchor in no wind and used the drift method, you may not have it fully set. Don't worry about backing slowly in idle in the same direction the wind is blowing to set. You are not forcing the direction. It's why the seamanship books suggest it. Course all that combined knowledge any be wrong:) if I see someone anchor like James suggested without backing down, and I know the wind may come up, I move away.

As far as chain, I would not shorten it. 30 feet is not that much at all. it doesnt hurt you. Chain does more than prevent cutting of the rode. Chain also will help prevent a boat from drifting around the anchor when there is dead calm, rope won't, doesn't have enough weight. Chain also decreases boats sailing on anchor in light winds. The rope is definitely more elastic as James mentioned, and you will have enough 3 strand out to get the elasticity.

No need to set out 10:1. Thats 170 ft of rode in a 10 ft deep anchorage. Overkill. That's how you float and get wrapped on a calm anchorage. Most other batters will not expect that either when they pass you or anchor near you and may foul or pick up your line. 7:1 is sufficient and recommended in most conditions.

Anchors are one of the most posted about subjects here and are important as is their use. When in an anchorage watch others for some of the tips mentioned.

I like to sleep well so my anchor is important. Also try " Drag Queen" as a old ap anchor alarm.:)
 
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#4 ·
I admire a skipper that will pull the anchor back up and do it over, if it didn't set the first time. They just don't always set right and how would I know if this is your 1st in 100 or your 40th in 100. I would rather you got it right! Also, not everyone would be expected to have the perfect anchor for all conditions. The next gens seem as close as one can get. If you don't have one, more tries are likely. So be it.

For some practical input, unless you are all chain, 7 to 1 scope is recommended. But this has more to do with holding than setting. I drop 2 to 1 and drift back to take up slack. You are wise to be careful not to foul the anchor with chain. Then I drop another 2ish to 1 and drift back against that. With 4 to 1 down, I then idle reverse against it and see if SOG drops to zero. In some cases, it will stick around 1kt as the boat is actually swinging side to side in the wind. I find the speed wheel will go to zero, even if I'm still slightly draging, however. If SOG goes to zero or I can visually assess from a stationary object that I'm not dragging, I may not be fully set, but I must be set. I then drop the rest of what it takes for the condition. For me, with all chain, 5 to 1 is a day anchor, 7 to 1 overnight and even more if conditions are rough. Once its all out, I power back against it to set it deeper and test the holding strength.

With the final power test, one has to be realistic too. While I might know I'm set in soft mud, there is no doubt that my 100hp turbo diesel can drag my CQR through it. As long as it doesn't pull out and a dart back at 4 knots, I may have to accept that the bottom/anchor just can't do better. This is where I have to assess how strong the winds will be for the duration. Light winds, no worries. Heavy winds and I'll not be able to stay the night.
 
#5 ·
Your problems are easy to fix...Get a real anchoring system!

Get a decent sized Rochna (one size bigger that advertised) and 100 ft of chain. Drop rochna and slowly let out 4 to 1 scope of chain, set anchor and then let out another 1 to 2 scopes with a decent snubber. If any doubt let out more chain.

Works every time on my boat and we anchor 2-300 days per year. We get a first time set 95+% of the time.

I understand problems with weight and retrieval but when the security of your home depends on that anchor holding in 50 knot squalls that is what is required.
 
#7 ·
We cruise full time and live on the anchor most of the time.
I have had to anchor in 4:1 in tight spaces with strong tidal changes twice a day. Anchored in many 'soft mud' bottoms.

Chain helps, do not go with less.
Trying to set the anchor at 2:1 will increase the chances of pulling it out.

I suspect your problem is that you are trying to set too hard too soon. When we drop in likely soft mud bottoms, we do not throttle up hard in reverse. We put the boat in reverse with no throttle and let the boat back down gently until the chain is fairly tight. Then just a slight bump up of the throttle to around 1000rpm. If conditions are benign, that's all we do. This lets the anchor settle down into the mud. Later, if there is a threat of high wind, we'll turn the engine on and throttle up full in reverse to check if the anchor is holding. Works every time...so far! Just had 7 boats rafted to us in a soft mud Chessy bottom. Wind was under 5 when we set but over a 12 hour period it switched around 360d and picked up to around 15k at times; 4:1 scope and we held fine
 
#8 ·
A danforth is fine for 95% of the Chesapeake.

Assuming your boat is 30 feet, I'd swap out your 30 feet of chain for a heavier size of chain. Have a section of chain rode that is at least as long as your boat.

Use more scope when setting the anchor. The goal is to pull the anchore more along a horizontal axis than a vertical one. Heavier chain and more scope will achieve that, resulting in easier, more secure setting.

Yes, you could upgrade to a more modern anchor and skip my other suggestions to acheive the same result of faster, secure setting. I'm just saying that it can be done for a lot less money, and a slight change in your technique.
 
#10 ·
Anchoring is an Art. What do they say." ...any one can make a boat sail, it takes a sailor to make one stop." A lot of people here know my stance on size. Big chain and a big anchor. On my 28 foot sloop, I currently use 30 feet of 5/8 chain and a 35 pound Manson, with several 100 feet of 5/8 line on the dumb end. I just left my boat out on the hook in Central America with that set up in 25 knot winds and 2 foot chop and went back to work in the states. Put some good chafe gear on the line and I'm sleeping well, 700 miles from my boat. It sets immediatly every time. I'm even a little complaicant about it now. If the bottom is anchorable, it's gunna grab and it's gunna hold...period.
 
#11 ·
I do think you can have too much chain and too much anchor weight. When it becomes unmanageable and is no longer providing additional necessary holding then you have too much. I feel good with a 25lb Manson Supreme and 30' of chain on my anchor rode on a ~8000lb 28' boat. However I'm not anchoring and leaving it alone for months at a time like Aaron...if I were I'd upsize. I'm typically on the boat while it is anchored.

I like the Manson Supreme a lot. It's expensive, but it sets (and resets) quickly. I have a Fortress as my lunch hook/secondary anchor and it doesn't set as nicely.

Note that you can also back down the anchor by sailing backwards by pushing the main sail out on the boom. There is nothing more peaceful than dropping and leaving anchor by wind and leaving the engine turned off. Of course this works best in large open anchorages.

Don Casey has a different take on anchor scope in this article that is worth considering:
Ground Rules: Anchoring in Three Dimensions | Sail Magazine

In Seattle we have much larger tidal swings than on the Chesapeake, so I've never had the experience of anchoring in 7' of water. Last Sunday we had >15' swings, so anchoring in 7' of water would mean you'd be in 22' of water later on. That makes you think a lot about scope.

I usually seem to anchor in 20-40' of water and go for a 5:1 scope. My rode is 300' total, so I can anchor in up to 60' of water with that scope.
 
#14 ·
Well, yeah. You can have too much indeed. I'm only leaving her out for 2 weeks at a time, and it's out in front of my house, and my wife checks on it. I used to leave it out for months years ago in places like Pacencia Belize. Back then I put out a much bigger set up. As I have no engine, I'm older and I am hand hauling, I've reduced my rhode to 30 feet of chain and a 35 pounder. When I was younger I had a 45 pounder and all chain. Point being, I love my Manson and my big Chain. It's as small as I'll go. This is my shalow, 30 feet or less set up. Gen. I'm in 15 and less feet of water. I am currently setting my self up for a deeper set up which will be a fortress and small 3/8 chain on some little 1/2 inch line or something like that.
 
#12 ·
When I had a Gemini 105Mc I could back up to a tree and anchor in 2 feet. Not that we did all that often but...
I've held up to 17 boats (over 150k pounds) on my 25 lb danforth the trick is to give it time to settle in and dig.
Even the 'next gen' anchors that are deep diving designs need time. If you aren't actually drifting, just wait.

Now on the Irwin 38, I have no windlass. I typically wander up to a cruising boat (like Xort's who posted above), throw out a fender and dock to them. Of course if you don't know them before doing this it might be cause of a slight problem, or it might be a spontaneous party. Hey, it's not your fault they weren't listening on the VHF when you asked for permission to raft up :)
 
#13 ·
Lots of good advice. To emphasize a couple points:

Danforth is fine for the Chesapeake. We anchored for years with one all over the Bay with no issues. And without all chain. On boats ranging from 22-34'. Yes the new gen anchors are great. Even better with all chain rode. (Yes I do sleep better now). But technique is the key for all anchoring situations. Develop yours and follow it.

Couple things from our practice:
- develop a hand signal system that works for you. We never have to holler back and forth
- put the anchor gently on the bottom with a slight amount of aft way on. Don't let the anchor touch while moving fwd or it will lay down wrong and it's uphill from there
- pull gently initially while at btwn 3 and 5:1 - your choice and some bit of feel involved. Goal is to get the danforth diving into the mud. Once pointed that way, it'll tend to stay that way.
- 5:1 for day, 7:1 for overnight, 10:1 for bad conditions (wind, current, shifts, bottom, etc) - Don't forget water to bow distance. We have scope table taped on the door of the anchor locker. I don't want either or us to screw up our math if we're tired.
- Once scope is out to what you want, pull hard while lining up a range off the beam. I never trust instruments to tell me I'm set. I want to see a range not change
- sit back, relax, and watch your range marks for awhile to make sure.
- ask others in the anchorage how much scope they have out.
- if something isn't comfortable, it's not right. That odd feeling should never be ignored.
 
#15 ·
It could just be that you have an undersized anchor, there's a lot of truth to the old saying that your anchor isn't big enough until people start telling you it's too big:)) My wife and I have worked out a set of very simple hand signals for anchoring (forward, back, neutral, increase/decrease rpm, left/right, depth?), we rarely need to say a word.
 
#16 ·
One thing for communication between the helm and anchor person would possibly one of those little $65.00 headset equipped VHF radios for the anchor person and it would be almost hands free operation. You probably have other spots where the little radio would come in very handy, and it really is $65.00 and comes with the headset.

Just a thought.
 
#17 ·
Sorry for the slight drift.

we tried headsets and we both hated them - too much emotion. Went back to hand signals. Here's what we use:

Hand pointing up - idle forward
Hand pointing up and going in circles - add a little throttle in forward
Hand sticking out to side - neutral
Hand point down - reverse
hand pointing down and going in circles - add a little throttle in reverse
Hand pointing 45 deg either way - steer that way (picking up a mooring, hoisting the anchor, etc)

Would love others' suggestions for improvement.
 
#18 ·
Sorry for the slight drift.

we tried headsets and we both hated them - too much emotion. Went back to hand signals. Here's what we use:

Hand pointing up - idle forward
Hand pointing up and going in circles - add a little throttle in forward
Hand sticking out to side - neutral
Hand point down - reverse
hand pointing down and going in circles - add a little throttle in reverse
Hand pointing 45 deg either way - steer that way (picking up a mooring, hoisting the anchor, etc)

Would love others' suggestions for improvement.
Oops, that is not good, emotions should not get out of line when performing small tasks or large ones, but that is definitely a topic for another place. It seems to look like you have all the signals you need...I did notice you are missing one I used to get from my girlfriend when we were together on the boat...
Hand up with palm facing toward body, middle finger extended, all others curled into a fist.... I think that meant something like "if you don't like the way I am doing it, do it yourself, I am going to lay out on the cockpit cushions and drink iced tea".
 
#19 ·
Headsets made things worse?
They're called marriage savers for a reason!

How well can she see your hand signals in the dark with pouring rain?

Hand signals allow virtually nothing for nuance. Move to starboard...how far?

We consider ours one of the best pieces of necessary gear aboard.
 
#21 ·
Use all chain with 75lbs Rocna. Careful about the snubber as with no stretch in the chain lack of good snubbing can work the anchor out in a choppy anchorage. Try to use as much line as possible and sometime a bridle of snubbers which makes the boat sail less. Have a set up to attach snubber where rod for short sprit attaches to hull. Puts the snubber way down low which should help but haven't rigged it yet.
 
#22 ·
We are on the Chesapeake, have a CQR with all chain rode (120 feet?) , use only hand signals, and generally 5:1, going to 7:1 if stronger winds expected. Agree with the statements that anchoring is an art. We were taught our technique by an experienced Chesapeake Bay sailor/instructor. She advised picking your spot carefully (based on all the usual stuff), approach area bow to wind. Let anchor down with some rode. Let it settle. Let out some more. Be patient. Let out some more. (this is where the "art" comes in). Then, if there's wind, you will see the bow swing to one side and then swing back and "get a bounce". When the rode is straightened out, Give 1000 rpm in reverse for about 5 seconds (count slow). Let anchor and rode settle again. Give 1000 rpm in reverse again. (hubby feels the chain rode while this happens. You can tell if the anchor is skipping over bottom) Also, you will see the chain rise up in the water, at a less acute angle, when you reverse, because anchor is holding. We were taught, "now go fix yourself a cocktail, and then give one more 1000 rpm reverse". Once done, check position of boat against some markers on shore...two trees, a house and a dock, whatever. Can check this later, before bedtime, to see if you've dragged. We have never dragged, and we've been in plenty of howling wind. We notice that a lot of people seem in a rush or very casual about anchoring. No hand signals, lots of yelling. No waiting for anchor to settle. They just throw boat in reverse with a big rev and consider it set. NO! Half the time they are yanking the anchor out of the set that it might have made. I'm probably not explaining this as well as I could, but the weight of the boat/any wind should be what sets the anchor initially, not the engine. The checks with engine reverse are just that... checking to make sure you are set.
 
#23 ·
Its important to dance when finally done. Better than hand signals. You may choose a dance move of your own please don't use mine it may cause confusion.

More seriously ditto on the chill out before backing down. I copied my approach from someone else and have had fewer problems since. A light back down to "line everything up" under natural forces if available, then tidy up your boat. When you get the the beer stage of tidying up it also probably time to dig the anchor in a bit more.
 
#24 ·
We use hand signals and are very pleased with how it works. With experience you develop nuance and figure out your own system.
 
#25 ·
We are in the Chesapeake (read: mud) and use a Danforth as our primary. 30 ft of chain and usually at least 5:1 scope

Josh
That means you are anchoring in 4 feet of water.

30 feet chain less 6 feet water to bow roller = 24 feet
24/5 = 4.8

Basically you are not using all chain you must be using rope rode. Rope will never keep your boat secure IMHO.

I have 330 feet of chain and if I anchor in the minimum I could, 6 feet, I would put out 30 feet of chain and then my scope calculation 3 x 6 = 18 then the 6 feet to the bow roller. Total 54 feet all chain. Then add any tide allowence.

When I say I put out 10 meters/30 feet before my scope calculation: I fnid this is a small but essential blob of chain I use in any shallow water. My current anchoring situation is:
Depth 9.5 meters
Water to bow roller 2 meters
Tide: nothing, maybe a foot
Scope Nominal 3:1 no storms predicted etc

11.5 meters x 3 = 34.5
Actual chain out 44 meters

Converted:
Depth 31 feet
Water to bow roller 6 meters
Tide: nothing, maybe a foot
Scope Nominal 3:1 no storms predicted etc

38 feet x 3 = 113 feet
Actual chain out 144 feet
 
#27 ·
Mark, what is the size of your boat again? And what is the size of your chain and is it standard or proof coil? I will be cruising Mexico and am re-thinking my ground tackle. I currently have a 35# Delta Fastset, 40’ of 3/8 proof coil chain and 250’ of 5/8 rode (nylon 3 strand). I also have a kellet. My boat is 34’ and fully laden for cruising will be about 16,000#.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Mark, what is the size of your boat again? And what is the size of your chain and is it standard or proof coil? I will be cruising Mexico and am re-thinking my ground tackle. I currently have a 35# Delta Fastset, 40' of 3/8 proof coil chain and 250' of 5/8 rode (nylon 3 strand). I also have a kellet. My boat is 34' and fully laden for cruising will be about 16,000#.
My boat is a Beneteau 393, 39 feet, 11.62 m, 7.5 tons light and 8.5 tanked.

the chain is 10mm wich is similar but not exactly 3/8th inch. I dont know what standard or Proof coil are... but its the 'normal' chain that most boats get of that size.

I would keep the Delta but add as much chain as you can afford. I havent actually used more than 80 meters any time (260 feet) but its nice to know I have as much as I possibly can.

The 40' and 250 rode would be good for a kedge anchor because its light enough for setting by dinghy. For that anchor I would just get a kedge, so it can be a smaller Delta etc.

By Mexico you mean the west side? Sea of Cortez etc? I havent been there but I understand the anchoring can be quite deep. Thats similar to the Mediterranean where 25 meters water depth is common (80 feet water) now thats a lot of chain you want. If you dont have it then you are more restricted to parking the boat, maybe missing a great anchorage.

If I had oooodles of money I would be getting a Manson Supreme for the main anchor (or whatever new generation is currently winning in the anchor threads!)

I tried a Kellet (bucket of concrete) in a hurricane and it did bugger all good. It popped up like a ping pong ball and was just a twisting mess when we swung around. Useless as boobies on a bull. The weight of the kellet is only about 10 feet of chain anyway.

So now I keep stuff simple: 1 anchor, one long chain, one snubber :)

Hope this helps

Mark
 
#30 ·
Just wondering out loud here but does that micro-burst at 3:00 am that rotates you 180 degrees and blows 50 knots allow your anchor to "settle" before it begins its abuse on your "coaxed and coerced" set.....?????:D:D

Who is allowing your anchor to "settle" on a re-set in the middle of the night? Does Mother Nature care? Do you get up at 3:00am and go through the motions all over and coax it to set, then wait a half hour, dringk a cocktail, then back down a little more then wait some more, then apply 1000RPM to finally test it? How do you ever get any sleep..?:)

Sorry but if an anchor needs to "settle" and needs coersion or coaxing it is not the anchor I want, and I've owned and currently own them....

This is just SOME of the anchors I own (some of these are lawn ornaments to me and will never be used again):


We can set any of our new gen anchors, Spade, Rocna, Manson Supreme or Mantus within inches then apply at wide open throttle and bury it into the bottom measured in feet not inches.

I want an anchor that sets, and more importantly RESETS, all on its own without caressing, whispering in its ear or coaxing it to set..... ;);)
 
#34 ·
MS

You're not quite understanding the process/situation. I guarantee you there are some soft mud places where a quick, hard set WILL NOT work with any of your anchors. Or even with all of them!! In tandem!!

When you let the anchor settle, it's getting down past the soft soup into harder bottom where it will set well. You know my boat, 30,000 lbs or more. I have the Manson Supreme 45 lb. with 200' of chain. Most of the time, in the Chesapeake, I will drag the Manson even with 7:1 if I throttle up very much at all. But wait a few hours and then throttle up full, no problems.
The raft up I mentioned previously here. I could feel a very slight drag when I put the anchor down and throttled up a bit. Tight anchorage and zero wind. So we rafted 6 good sized boats to me and then the wind started changing 90 degrees at a time. We turned 360 over about 12 hours with winds picking up to around 12 or so off and on. We didn't budge.

You Mainers are Soooo impatient!
 
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