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calamityjane 08-23-2004 11:35 PM

splicing wire
if anybody out there can point me toward a reference for splicing double braid to wire rope it would be appreciated. this seems to be the top secret technology of the riggers art for as many books you can find on it. i am restoring an elderly islander on a dinghy budget. i can afford the wire, the braid, or the paying someone to do it.... but not all three. my 3 strand and braid splicing is old news, i''ve just never dealt with wire.

Sasha_V 08-24-2004 04:10 AM

splicing wire
Why not just go with all-rope spectra or vectran? It works out at about the same price and has many advantages (like being able to end-for-end your halyards to increase lifespan and never having to worry about "meathooks" again.)


AJS 08-24-2004 06:25 AM

splicing wire
Sheaves designed to work with wire to rope halyards may damage all rope halyards. Altering the sheaves or buying new ones adds to the cost.
The method for making the splice is described in detail in ''The Riggers Apprentice'' by Brion Toss. An excellent source of information on many rigging problems.

fer@fer 08-24-2004 03:55 PM

splicing wire
Calamity Jane,

sorry, I''m in a hurry,

just check page 8 of this pdf



Sasha_V 08-24-2004 04:32 PM

splicing wire
You know. I keep hearing this. And I know that sheaves that have run wire (whether diesigned for it or not) will have the groove worn in them that will kill rope halyards.


For about $16 we got four Vesconite sheaves, Margaret went up the mast in the bosuns chair and replaced the old aluminium ones in a little under 15 minutes. Job done.

Having gone over to spectra halyards, I am never looking back. The next project is to go for Spectra 5mm lifelines instead of the cable. Much friendlier.


fer@fer 08-24-2004 06:21 PM

splicing wire

In case replacing wire to rope halyards by spectra or any other exotic fiber, he will also need to pay attention to the rope diamenter of stoppers if any, as well as drum and self tailing rope allowance.


Sasha_V 08-25-2004 03:15 AM

splicing wire
I get the feeling I am arguing as the devil''s advocate here...


If the halyard he has now is double braid that is spliced into cable. Lets say the double-braid is 10mm. You change out the top sheave sot hat you can run 10mm spectra throughout. It gives you something much stronger then you used to have. It is lighter and friendlier to the touch...and it fits all stoppers and drums and ST''s in exactly the same way as the double-braid used to.

he only place you need to replace anything is where the steel cable used to run. And that is just the top sheave.

Really, this IS easy. I have done it, there is nothing to be scared of.



paulk 08-29-2004 06:36 PM

splicing wire
We worried about changing our wire/rope halyards to all line too. Are the sheaves, sized for wire, too tight a turn for the new techno wonderstuff? It appears that wire needs a bigger radius than what''s now available. This is therefore a nonissue.

Are the old sheaves going to chew up your expensive new halyards because of rough edges caused by the steel wire abrading the softer aluminum or composite sheaves? Do they abrade the rope part of your current wire/rope halyards? Get some sandpaper and smooth them down. Two sheets at $0.75 each : $1.50.

Is your new halyard going to jam in the sheave because it''s been designed with a wide part for the line to run in and a narrower slot for the wire to ride on. As Sasha V suggests, get a new line of sufficient diameter to be comfortable to hold, and it won''t slip into the tighter slot.

We changed out our wire/rope spinnaker halyards to all line five seasons ago. The meathooks were getting excessive, and we learned that an all-line halyard would actually stretch LESS than wire. A single strand of some of the stuff available, say 10 to 12mm, is strong enough to lift a 10 ton keelboat. We were concerned about all the above issues, but have not had ANY of the problems described. We''ve examined our halyards carefully at the end of each season, and the only problem seems to be the sun fading the color on the exposed parts.

The best idea might be to simply use all line and examine the halyard and sheave at the end of the season when you pull the mast. If the sheave should be changed, you''ll be able to tell. If not, you''ve saved $20 for a new sheave, and perhaps $150 for a wire/rope splice. Of course, there are the purist restorers who want everything to be "period", but they sail with reel winches for their all-wire main halyards and have an orthopedist on retainer for when the brake is released with the handle in.

JeffC_ 09-05-2004 05:43 PM

splicing wire
Next time someone asks me what <em>drift</em> is, I''ll point him to this threadů

paulk 09-12-2004 05:24 PM

splicing wire
A drift is an unthreaded bolt, Jeff. Maybe peened over at the ends like a huge rivet, and used to tie things like keel timbers together, or rudders. Chappelle talks about them all the time. Don''t see what they have to do with halyards, though.

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