Reefing without reefing points - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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Rup-

While I can't say how much it should cost you, since it depends a fair bit on the market and the size of the sail, a proper reef would have the cringles (large grommets) at the edges and regular grommets along the reef. Also, the cringles would be set in a heavily reinforced area... so they'd have to apply re-inforcing patches to the sail at the reef. This is so the cringles can take the load of the reef and spread it along a larger portion of the sail so the sail doesn't tear out.

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post #12 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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Rup,

installing cringles for reefing is simple and cheap. but to be done properly you need to request from whom ever will do the following things:

1) the cringles must be good size to passa reef line thru them, I have seen sails with reef cringles so small that limits the size of the reefing line, that has to be thick enough for hand confort.

2) The cringles should be applied over a strip of hard resistance material, that is sewn onto the sail, not just in the sail, this is to spread cringle loading onto a wider surface. (see the strip I talk about in below photo).

3) The cringle area should creata a patch, formed by triangular sections of sail cloth, all sewn in the sai, with the wider part of the triangle where the cringle is. (see photo bellow)

4) A larger rectangular patch should be sewn directly onto the sail to beef up the area. (see photo bellow)

That is how it should be done, and what you should require from your sail maker...these features I mentioned here no only prevent sail tear and rip, they also make sure you can still trim a reefed sail with out it deforming, which would happen without the all the above items.


do not settle for less. This is a properly done job. If you have any more questions let me know

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post #13 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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How old is your main - it may be time to replace it and if so, have the reef points put in as it's built and they will be correct. I having a new main built at Hood Sails and they are putting in three reef points - it doesn't add much cost when making the sail.

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post #14 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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If this is an old sail, it probably won't pay to have reef cringles installed as the sail may not hold up to tension on the reef in high winds, Just buy a new main w/ reefs - spend the money; its a boat that is what its for.
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post #15 of 30 Old 03-26-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I am not certain of the sail's age but presume it to be somewhere in the 5-10 year range due to it's condition and the boat's history. It seems to be in fairly decent condition.

Giu, I can't seem to find the photo you refer to. (My settings have the view images box checked) Is there something I need to change?

As far as putting in the cringles and grommets, it seems to me that someone with basic sewing skills and engineering sense could likely put them in without too much difficulty. Is there something else about it that would make DIY a bad idea?
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post #16 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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For that year and size boat, you might have a roller fulling boom and not realize it. My Helms 25 has one. Does the gooseneck swivel at the boom connection? Is the main sheet attached to a swiveling tang at the end of the boom? If so, its a roller boom and was made to manually roll the sail around the boom. I don't use mine except as an alternative to flaking the sail for storage. I bought a new sail with the latest designs like 2+2 battens, loose foot, sail slugs, draft strips and two nice reef points. It was time for a new sail. Less than a $1000.

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1976 #552
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post #17 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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It shouldn't cost more than $100/reef to add them after the fact. Unless you plan on doing long passages I'd just get the clew and tack grommets and reinforcement put in. There's rarely the need to get bothered about the series of "reef ties" and they are often misused causing the sail to tear. If present they should only be used to loosely gather the flaked reefed portion of the sail.

Ron

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post #18 of 30 Old 03-26-2008
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But in the mean time drop the main sail and shift the jib back to take its place. Practice it in calmer waters first. Then you can be prepared for those higher winds.
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post #19 of 30 Old 03-27-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rup View Post
Giu, I can't seem to find the photo you refer to. (My settings have the view images box checked) Is there something I need to change?

Rup, please click here, and tell me if you can now see it.

Alex
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post #20 of 30 Old 03-27-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rup View Post
As far as putting in the cringles and grommets, it seems to me that someone with basic sewing skills and engineering sense could likely put them in without too much difficulty. Is there something else about it that would make DIY a bad idea?
A home sewing machine would probably not have the power to sew through as many layers of sailcloth and strapping as would be necessary to do the job. I do some sail repairs on my "heavy duty" home sewing machine, and it wouldn't have enough power for that job.

I saw a botched sail repair job that someone did to a friend's sail last year, and the sail was ruined. We all like to economize when we can, but some jobs are better left to the pros, who have the tools and know-how to do the job.
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