How to Seal Anchor Chain Pipe Hole - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 22 Old 03-27-2009
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Maybe a good rule of thumb might be to stow it below when you cross the hundred fathom curve.

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post #12 of 22 Old 03-27-2009
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And if you use hydraulic cement it doesn't care if it's wet or not, the water acts as a catalyst for it and the stuff dries rock hard in about fifteen minutes.

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post #13 of 22 Old 03-27-2009
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I know someone that uses a big fist of modeling clay. Uses it to seal around the chain at the hole at the windless.

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post #14 of 22 Old 03-28-2009
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a good rule of thumb is once you're in water too deep for the anchor and rode you carry to work, on an extended passage, it is probably time to stow the anchor. If you're in really deep waters near shore daysailing or going from one anchorage to another, I'd leave it on the bow.

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Thanks, guys. Good info. Spill pipe. Sounds like whatever you can invent that will stay stuffed into the spill pipe will work. My though about removing the anchors from the bow was the same as SD's - lots of weight on the very pointy end of the boat, more surface area for water to torque on........ More applicable on longer passages further from shore, maybe not if you might have to duck into an anchorage. At what point do you decide to lash the anchor down tightly in the bow roller, if you aren't going to remove it? Mine has a nice beefy pin and the usual dog on the windlass, but there is plenty of room for it to slam around if the bow is getting pounded.

Ian

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post #15 of 22 Old 03-28-2009
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Do you have a cap for that pipe? On a previous boat, I had an oval 'spill pipe' and it had a cap on it. made the opening for the chain pretty small. The drain hole should be able to keep up with that. perhaps take a tracing of the top of your pipe and contact some of the manufacturers to see if they have that size?
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post #16 of 22 Old 03-28-2009
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Don Casey's book 100 fast & easy boat improvements shows how to make a reusable (stays on the chain when in use) plug
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post #17 of 22 Old 04-11-2009
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I have a tennis ball with a hole drilled through it. Pass a line through the hole and knot it on the other side. Unshackle the anchor (remembering to secure it first) and then tie the line with the ball to the last link of the chain. Feed the chain into the locker. As the last of the chain falls into the locker it sucks the ball into the hole in the deck. Ball fits snugly in the hole and most of the water stays where it should. This rig makes it easy to retreive the chain as well.
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post #18 of 22 Old 04-11-2009
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Playdough, modelling clay
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post #19 of 22 Old 04-13-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
It's usually called a hawse pipe or chain pipe. There are a few different ways to seal them. One is to have a cap that fastens over the opening that is held in place by a screw coming up the hawse pipe. Another is using a fast pin to hold the existing cap in place. Another is to use an expandable plug to fill the hole.

With an oval shaped one, I would probably recommend using a fast pin to hold the cover in place. Drill a 1/4" hole through the side of the cap and the hawse pipe itself and insert a 1/4" fast pin.
I have a thread on Anything Sailing Forums - Powered by vBulletin at this time, if further ideas need exploring. I am trying to avoid the installation of such a pipe, which I used to call a "hawse pipe", but now call a chain pipe or a chain fall because I don't carry my anchor, destroyer style, in a notch on the side of the bow from which you can also run "hawsers". (I find the more particular I am about nautical terminology, the less ambiguity is created, but that's just me.)

One idea I know of is to put even a one-inch high collar around the hole in the deck. This should reduce the water coming inside somewhat as the water naturally sloshing on deck from spray can't find that hole and use it as a drain.

At sea, I would stow my anchors and perhaps my chain (I keep it in an anchor well) below to get the weight off the end and to reduce stress on my bowsprit. It is also not inconceivable that beating into heavy seas could chafe the light lashings that are usually sufficient to keep the shanks in place entirely through and I could have a "surprise deployment". If I was in coastal or otherwise thin waters (like in the typically rough water over an oceanic seamount), this could be quite destructive were I going at a good clip.

So while it's more work, I would shift my anchors below into the forepeak. I would also bag them, because I have found that even on Lake Ontario, anchors can damage the paint just through moving a little bit a few thousand times on the same spots. "Chafe is the enemy" isn't just about lines and sails, I am learning.

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post #20 of 22 Old 04-13-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valiente View Post
I have a thread on Anything Sailing Forums - Powered by vBulletin at this time, if further ideas need exploring. I am trying to avoid the installation of such a pipe, which I used to call a "hawse pipe", but now call a chain pipe or a chain fall because I don't carry my anchor, destroyer style, in a notch on the side of the bow from which you can also run "hawsers". (I find the more particular I am about nautical terminology, the less ambiguity is created, but that's just me.)

One idea I know of is to put even a one-inch high collar around the hole in the deck. This should reduce the water coming inside somewhat as the water naturally sloshing on deck from spray can't find that hole and use it as a drain.
It would help with spray and sloshing water...but water breaking over the bow would still get some into the pipe.

Quote:
At sea, I would stow my anchors and perhaps my chain (I keep it in an anchor well) below to get the weight off the end and to reduce stress on my bowsprit. It is also not inconceivable that beating into heavy seas could chafe the light lashings that are usually sufficient to keep the shanks in place entirely through and I could have a "surprise deployment". If I was in coastal or otherwise thin waters (like in the typically rough water over an oceanic seamount), this could be quite destructive were I going at a good clip.

So while it's more work, I would shift my anchors below into the forepeak. I would also bag them, because I have found that even on Lake Ontario, anchors can damage the paint just through moving a little bit a few thousand times on the same spots. "Chafe is the enemy" isn't just about lines and sails, I am learning.
Not only do you want to bag them, but secure them very tightly. You don't want anchors or anything that heavy moving at all. If they can move, they'll eventually chafe through the bags and cause the damage you're trying to prevent.

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a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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