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Go Back   SailNet Community > Skills and Seamanship > Seamanship & Navigation
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Seamanship & Navigation Forum devoted to seamanship and navigation topics, including paper and electronic charting tools.


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  #31  
Old 04-15-2010
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The only difference between an autotack and an autogybe is which way the boat is facing... It shouldn't care that you're going downwind... what version of the firmware do you have for the ST4000???

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Originally Posted by tomandchris View Post
I agree with SD's earlier comment on controlling the main as you turn through the wind. I was taught, and still practice it, to turn through the wind and pull the main to center just as the jib collapses. Waiting for that moment you can easily control the main by hand and be ready to let it out quickly on the opposite tack. I release the jib as I go through and have it somewhat pre set for the opposite tack. When I have the main under control I trim the jib and then the main. Never gybed above 30 knots, but never had a problem up to that wind speed. I have a wheel and auto pilot...and SD's post about auto pilots brings me to my question to add to this post.

My auto pilot will auto tack, but not auto gybe. I have tried to find a way to override the brain, but unlike my own, which I over ride to my detriment often, I can't seem to find a way.

I have a Raymarine ST4000 Autopilot on a Catalina 34 Tall Rig with Raymarine ST60 instruments all talking to each other. The autopilot recognizes the wind speed and direction and will not let you tack if it reads a gybe. My question: Has anyone found a way around this issue? I can't call it a problem as I understand the reason, but I would like to be able to over ride it as I often sail alone and auto is your friend...especially above 20 kts of wind speed.
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  #32  
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I don't know what firmware I have but will try to check when getting the boat ready for launch in the next few weeks.

I would not think that it should care if I am gybing or tacking, but it certainly does. It reads the gybe and I have not been able to override it. Anyone else had the problem and been able to override?

Tom
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My Raymarine wheelpilot ST-1 with has a gybe inhibit feature that defaults to on. It's controlled by a parameter called GYBESTOP in the user calibration settings.

The gybe inhibit feature prevents the autotack from turning your stern across the wind. It only works if you've got a wind-instrument feed to the autopilot.
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Thanks. I have gone through that book a bunch of times, but will look again to turn off the gybe preventer. It's not like it will accidentally gybe, you do have to push two buttons to auto tack. No different than turning the wheel, except you know roughly how far it will turn.

Thanks!
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I looked through the manual but didn't see anything about a GYBESTOP.

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Originally Posted by tomandchris View Post
Thanks. I have gone through that book a bunch of times, but will look again to turn off the gybe preventer. It's not like it will accidentally gybe, you do have to push two buttons to auto tack. No different than turning the wheel, except you know roughly how far it will turn.

Thanks!
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That was from the "SmartPilot Series: S1 Wheelpilot, S1 TillerPilot Operating guide, Document Reference 81283-1", as downloaded from the Raymarine web site.

It's section 2.5, User Calibration options, under User Calibration Pages. It's 2nd entry, right after AutoTack Angle and before Wind Selection (app vs true). Page 31 in this version of the guide.

This is most likely specific to the model and firmware version. My actual menus do not quite match the manual. I haven't confirmed the entry on the actual device. I will check at my first opportunity.
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Oh, and when looking closely, I think it's "GYBE STOP" (with a space).
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Went to the boat today and climbed the ladder. Could not find the electronics book that I swore was on board. Looked at home and still have not found it. Next is the tubs that the boat stuff winters in. I know I have it....but where?

There has to be a better way!

tom
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A lot of the Raymarine manuals are available for download from their web site these days.
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Old 04-18-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacampbe View Post
I suspect it may also be because you were already steering into the gybe, which works against a pre-gybe round-up, but in favor of a post-gybe round-up.
This. Good explanation. It's why you can feed wood into the front of a tablesaw w/out it launching toward you: blade and board have opposing forces. Try feeding wood into the back of a tablesaw blade .... no control. The forces add together.

We tend to just throw the main across -- pull in a double handful of sheet as the boom comes across, then let it run thru our gloves to cushion the catch. But both our boats have only ~110 sqft mains and scoot downwind, so the forces are minor compared to a full keeler or 40' loaded cruiser. Getting the boom across fast is important. On the Bucc18 in a good wind it's critical to keep the boat planing, so there's no time to play sheet-to-center: slam and jam. If the boat comes off plane, you are soooo doomed.

BTW, shorthanded jibe technique may depend on the size of your headsail. Our working jib practically autotacks thru the slot, but a large genny may threaten to wrap around the forestay unless you keep it in hand. If you have a furler, there is NO SHAME in furling the genoa, jibing the boat, then unfurling on the other side. If your furler has trouble rolling neatly in strong following winds, blanket the headsail w/ the main while furling.

Nice topic! I'm learning a lot.
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