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post #11 of 27 Old 09-02-2011
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Is this what you are thinking of? I tied this around the splice that I just made.



I might give this a try today if this is it.

Dave
It's real close Dave and probably would work fine but here's the halyard knot.
The main feature of the knot is that it doesn't deform and thereby weaken the standing part of the line

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post #12 of 27 Old 09-03-2011 Thread Starter
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Thanks Knothead. It looks like two round turns around the standing part of the line then passing the bitter end through the turns going away from the shackle. I'll give that a try in the morning.

Dave

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post #13 of 27 Old 09-03-2011 Thread Starter
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OK, Knothead does this look correct? These are the knots attaching my sheets to the clew. So far they held in 16knots apparent close hauled.


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post #14 of 27 Old 09-04-2011
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They certainly look like the halyard knot to me. I wish I had known that you were planning to use them for sheets though. I would have mentioned that the halyard knot is difficult or impossible to untie after it's been loaded. You will usually have to cut them off.

When I replace my genoa sheets, I always buy a single piece and use a Larks head knot in the middle. After a few years, when I want to move the spots that show a little chafe, I will cut the line, end for end the two pieces and then use bowlines.
Sheets are usually overly large so that you can grip them, so they are strong that the amount of strength that you lose using a bowline is not important.
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post #15 of 27 Old 09-05-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knothead View Post
They certainly look like the halyard knot to me. I wish I had known that you were planning to use them for sheets though. I would have mentioned that the halyard knot is difficult or impossible to untie after it's been loaded. You will usually have to cut them off.

When I replace my genoa sheets, I always buy a single piece and use a Larks head knot in the middle. After a few years, when I want to move the spots that show a little chafe, I will cut the line, end for end the two pieces and then use bowlines.
Sheets are usually overly large so that you can grip them, so they are strong that the amount of strength that you lose using a bowline is not important.
Cutting them off won't be an issue. I was looking for an alternative to the bowline since those tend to get caught on my spreaders when tacking. This knot doesn't seem to as much, at least so far.

Dave

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post #16 of 27 Old 09-05-2011
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Dave

I just experienced the same problem. Yesterday I did my first splice.
All I did to get past this issue was to go down one fid size (smaller).
I had to taper cut the core's tip to get it into the fid, but once I did that it was very easy.

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post #17 of 27 Old 09-05-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afrinus View Post
I just experienced the same problem. Yesterday I did my first splice.
All I did to get past this issue was to go down one fid size (smaller).
I had to taper cut the core's tip to get it into the fid, but once I did that it was very easy.
I had tried a smaller fid size, but that didn't seem to work for me. My bent coat hanger worked amazing well however. I'll keep one in my bag one the boat.

Dave

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post #18 of 27 Old 09-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
Cutting them off won't be an issue. I was looking for an alternative to the bowline since those tend to get caught on my spreaders when tacking. This knot doesn't seem to as much, at least so far.

Dave
David--

For some reason folks seem to think that having the knots connecting sheets to the clew need to be right at the cringle. In fact, there is no reason for that and all that bulk makes tacking a pain in the neck as it is bound to get hung up on the baby stay (if one has one) and the shrouds. I found that making very large loops--leaving 12-18" between the clew and a bowline largely eliminates the problem. Of course, if you are willing to settle for continuous sheets, a cow-hitch will work, but otherwise try the foregoing. It's worked for me!

/s/ SK

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post #19 of 27 Old 09-26-2011
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Samson has a method for splicing used line that works easily. It is not as strong as a normal splice, but is likely twice as strong as a bowline so likely strong enough. They basically just cut off the core and don't bother. The numbers work like this - half the load is carried by both a cover and core. Half the load is carried by just the cover. The cover has half the strength so the overall splice should be about line strength. But the line with a bowline is about half the strength of the line so you are better off even with this less than perfect splice then you were with the bowline. I have a copy of the pdf on L-36.com. I think it is on the Samson site as well.
Eye Splice In Used Line;
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post #20 of 27 Old 09-26-2011
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After successfully splicing 1/2 inch line as a learning exercise, I bought some 3/8th inch line for a spinnaker halyard. I bought extra in case I screwed up the splice, but 3 tries later, I still couldn't get the core back into the cover. I can't see photos of your coat hanger tool here at work, but I'm going to check it out when I get home.

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