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5 basic reefing tips, whats yours.

5K views 16 replies 14 participants last post by  catamount 
#1 · (Edited)
5 basic reefing tips.

Sail-World.com : Do You Know These Five 'Time-to-Reef' Signals?.

Mines a simple one, when the tiller is hard to hold on my Centaur, with head sail furling and boom roller reefing, I generally roll the Genoa in a couple of turns, then the main proportionaly until its time for the iron main to take over. :eek:

Safe sailing
 
#3 · (Edited)
Link doesn't work for me.

Now it works:)) Those five are all good and I think that just indicates that there are numerous signs that will tell you it's time. Each boat sails differently and so there's no one wind speed that applies to all, you need to get know your boat and mostly just be aware of what the wind is doing and anticipate when to reef. I tend to reef early because it's easier done in less wind, sometimes the wind fools me and I end up shaking it out but it's good practice.
 
#4 ·
Re: 5 basic reefing tips.

[...., I generally roll the Genoa in a couple of turns, then the main proportionaly until its time for the iron main to take over...
What is your thinking here? Normally it is the lack of wind which causes us to resort to an engine. In any circumstances where there is a good breeze, even up to a gale, where you want to make progress, you will do so far easier under sail than power, the one exception being when you absolutely have to go directly into the wind.
 
#7 ·
Well, this is a great thread. I have picked up lots from all I have read.

I have just repaired my spinnaker[assym] and put it into a new 'sock'. Itching to try it out but today is 20-25kn so, not today for me.

I shortened the spinnaker pole to just shy of the furler and I know this is too short for the foot of the 150% or the spinnaker, but at 18'6", any longer and ít was too heavy for a singlehander. Also I can gybe or tack with the spin pole out and it just swings [under control] across and out the other side. How much speed have I lost - dont know, dont care as I am usually close to hull speed anyway.

As fir the mainsail, I have had singleline and I have had a boom furler, but have reverted back (years ago) to plain old slab reefing with a cunningham. Its simple, does not fail and only takes seconds longer and is light weight if, as I do, you are overwinched.

Actually, that is probably my only addition to the conversation - I have winches that would suit a boat half as long again and the same goes for the ground tackle and windlass.

Not the best photo, but these are the spinnaker/150% winch and the inner jib or 100% genny sheet winch
 
#8 ·
For those who cannot open the link. As to when to use the engine, with strong tides and drying harbours along the coast here the answer is when you have to.

Think of reefing as a balancing act instead of a heavy weather tactic. Sailboats that are balanced tend to sail flatter, faster, steer with less effort (manual, wind-vane, or auto-pilot), and provide more comfort for the sailing crew. Sail your boat balanced and you will maintain good control in all sailing conditions. Watch for these 'time-to-reef' signals to keep your boat sailing balanced with power, speed, and performance:

Whitecaps to Windward?

Do you see whitecaps blowing off the crests of waves to windward? Constant whitecaps tell you that a strong breeze has filled in and will continue for some time. Reef to add power to your boat sails and punch through those waves like a hot knife through butter.

Gusts more Frequent?

How often do those gusts strike the sails and cause the boat to heel? An occasional gust might not be of much concern. But lots of gusts every minute mean you need to reduce sail to keep the boat on her feet.

Helm Hard to Hold?

A balanced helm means being able to steer without strain with one hand. Lots of weather helm and 'white-knuckles' on the wheel or tiller indicates a boat out of harmony with wind and sea. Reef sails to the point that your boat can almost steer herself!

Rail in the Water?

Each time your cruising (or racing) sailboat digs the leeward rail into the water, you lose valuable speed. Extra friction and drag make you slow down. Keep the lee rail clear of the water for faster cruising passages or to beat the competition on race day.

Rounding Up from a Run?

Apparent wind drops when broad reaching or running. And that can lull even the saltiest dog into thinking that the wind has lightened up. Check for whitecaps to windward long before you need to round up. Reef before you round up to keep your boat under positive control.

Use the signals that surround you to warn you that it's time to reef right now. Become the true master and commander of your small cruising sailboat--wherever in the world you choose to cruise!

Safe sailing
 
#9 ·
Ah, a "Capt. John" article, the man behind skippertips.com, where, for as little as $48/year, you can learn a lot more great tips like this, thanks to Capt. John's years of experience...
that he has apparently learned by asking questions on FREE sites and regurgitating the info for his gullible subscribers.

For example,for $48/yr he will provide you with his experience sailing catamarans...once he gets the info he needs here:

Catamaran Characteristics - Sailing Anarchy Forums
 
#12 · (Edited)
I sail mostly boats with symmetrical hulls ... double enders, scows, etc. ... and which you can sail them over almost onto their beam ends and have very little change in helm pressure.

Aggressive heeling, for me, because of these boats sailing characteristics usually isnt a problem as its what im used to ... and oft-times 'enjoy'.
Even if a boat is over at 30 degrees of heel the lateral resistance is only decreased by 13% (COS 30 = .866) and the deeper the hull leeward topside immerses is ... tends to be a gain in 'projected' total lateral immersed surface.
Hell, even if 45 deg. over you still have 71% of keel projected area working ... plus the lee topside is much deeper in the water.
If my VMG to a distant waypoint is still reasonable ... I dont worry too much about heeling; but then again, Im 'used to it' because of the hull forms I prefer to sail.

My personal 'rules' when to reef are (remembering that I sail on boats with characteristically very light or almost 'neutral helm'):
1. When 'windward' if I begin to feel the boat begin to 'skid off to leeward' - through increasing helm pressure - and/or I see that the wake is no longer coming 'straight off the stern', then I begin to reef --- My 'key' to reefing when going to wind is 'helm pressure' ... boat is now 'skidding', the rudder is now going sideways relative to the water and I can feel it.
2. Secondly if the lee deck is 'awash', ... ditto on reefing ... I really dont want to 'trip' (quasi-broach) over the flat sided coach roof!

FWIW ... when I do reef, I usually set up for 'full draft shape' - eased reefing outhaul for 'full draft shape' - to 'power/punch' through waves. No use in having a flat reduced draft reefed shape as it usually doesnt have much 'power' .... I'd rather 'deeper' reef and have 'power' (large draft) to punch-through than a "1st" reef and flat (speed shaped) sails that cant 'punch' and will not enable 'accelerating' back to speed if/when I get 'stopped' by a large wave, etc.

Downwind ... another different set of circumstances altogether.
My two most important criteria are
1. 'hull speed' .... if you go much above 'hull speed', you risk a broach. I reef down anytime I exceed 'hull speed'. I do not like broaching, especially at night.
2. Roll period amplitude ... my 'crab crusher' has a loooong roll period. Less SA area that is up - less dampening of the roll. More SA - up less roll. .... until I get close to 'hull speed' (this ignores changing course, etc. to change the amount of 'rolling'.)
3. What is it going to be like if I have to head up and turn through and into the wind/waves? ... Ill set for that expected 'condition' ... just a 'safety issue'

Rig stretch - when long distance sailing and in 'blammo' conditions, I'll sometimes 'tie' a Loos gage to the backstay and if I begin to see a LOT of gage readings exceeding 30%, Ill begin to 'reduce' SA ... so to keep the rigging 'under' the normal 'fatigue endurance limit' ~=30% of Ultimate Tensile Strength of the wire ---- for less development of load cycles over 30% which accelerates the potential of rig 'fatigue' failure.
But also too my crab crusher rigging has an approx. 4:1 safety factor built in ... I wouldnt routinely do this aggressive heeling, etc. on a 'coastal design' at ~2:1 safety factor.

Hope this helps ;-)
 
#14 · (Edited)
Didn,t know Capt John had such a bad rep, tho the 5 tips seem fairly basic.
Some great additional tips comeing through, different tactics for different situations.
Jackdale is ofcource right about when you feel the need to reef but the inexperienced may benifit from additional help to come to the right the decision.
Safe sailing
 
#17 ·
Reefing Tip: make your reefing system really easy to use, so that you will use it whenever you need to.

I have a single-line reefing system on my mainsail, which combined with the slippery Strong Track luff slide system, makes it easy to put in, or shake out, a reef in less than a minute from the cockpit while still sailing on course on most points of sail (maybe not dead down wind).

Ease the vang, ease the sheet, release halyard to the mark, winch in reefing line, trim the sheet (and vang if necessary), and go!
 
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