04-17-2009
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Yes, the failure is inside the knot, and always in the same spot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lancelot9898
It was my understanding that the failure was at the U bend and not at the knot itself. If that's the case then it doesn't matter as to the type of knot or splice being used. I always thought the failure would in fact be at the knot since most books mention various reduction in strength for various knots and how a splice is better.
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I highly recommend, for anyone interested in knots, that they take some light line (less than 1/8"), tie opposing anchors in pairs, and start breaking them.
Note that differing line materials matter. Don't use cotton or binders twine - different rules apply because of differences in friction.
I used to make and market rock climbing equipment, and we spent many hours breaking stuff. Always educational.
__________________
(when asked how he reached the starting holds on a difficult rock climbing problem that clearly favored taller climbers - he was perhaps 5'5")
"Well, I just climb up to them."
by Joe Brown, English rock climber
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