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post #32 of Old 09-11-2018 Thread Starter
deniseO30
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Re: Spade rudders vs blue water passage making

Quote:
Originally Posted by FranklinGray View Post
I hate to bring an old thread back to life but would like to add something and also ask something.

My old boat, a Hunter 376 made in 1996 had a very low aspect rudder with a fat 6" composite post that insured it never stalled, however it was very unbalanced causing the boat to be hard to handle going fast and healed 20 degrees. I added 2" inches to the leading edge and everything changed. It was an awesome sailing boat with a perfectly balanced rudder. I could be healed over 20 degrees with 8 degrees of weather helm going 8 knots in the water and I could steer with 1 finger. I could let go of the wheel and it would stay put at 8 degrees of weather helm. The autopilot amp use dropped from 3-4 amps to 1-2 amps. I love spade rudders for having this ability to be balanced and I sailed mine for over 30,000 miles without any problems, including a 4,000 mile leg.

Now I am buying a large 55' Whitby with a long keel and a skeg hung rudder with 3 attachment points. I looked at Autopilots for sale that are recommended for the 54,000 lb boat and they burn about 7.5 amps. I'm like, darn, wish I could balance this rudder. But if I read this right, somebody on this thread took their skeg off and put on a balanced spade rudder. That has me going hmmmmmm. Should I consider such a thing?

On the other hand, I have read that the skeg rudder will track better. Is that true for quartering seas of say steep 10'?
Why are you buying a Whitby 55 that you obviously want to " fix" if you were so in love with a H376?

All because of a matter of 2 or 3 amp draw on the autopilot....

It's like comparing a ballerina to a sumo wrestler

"Next best thing to not having a boat? The knowledge from having one!" Denise, Bristol PA, On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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Last edited by deniseO30; 09-11-2018 at 09:49 AM.
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