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Re: Just purchased a 1973 Pearson 30, need advice.
The lock misalignment on the main cabin—to—head door is a sure sign that the post attached to the main bulkhead has rotted at its bottom (inside the 'tabbing' where the post connects to the hull, and where a wooden wedge was driven in under that 'post' over 40 years ago and is now 'missing') and the post/bulkhead 'assembly' has 'settled' down towards the bilge. In a P30, its the main bulkhead that supports the overhead which supports the (deck stepped) mast base. The 'post' supports the bottom of the bulkhead and helps to 'stiffen' the bulkhead.
The P30s came with MONEL fuel tanks ... there's NOTHING better than monel metal for fuel tanks. That monel tank is probably worth more $$$ than the rest of the boat.
Cockpit cracks - plywood core underneath (between the fiberglass layers) is rotted.
Cracks emanating from stanchion bases --- the stanchion bases were 'sealed' with rubber gaskets. The gasket, which always over time allows water into the deck coring - hence rotted core, was used because the top skin of fiberglass on the deck is too thin to support a rigid stanchion base. Now you have to dig out the rot and make the section under the stanchion base 'solid' and thus be able to attach the stanchion base to a solid structural support. That is 'after' you dig out the rotted balsa deck core.
Engine -- The clicking could just be a weak battery not fully energizing the starter, or rusty starter solenoid. However, if the engine has sat for more than a year or two without running, and (with no battery attached) when you take a socket and large breaker bar affixed to the crankshaft nose bolt ... and if the engine doesn't rotate when you apply GENTLE back and forth force on the breaker bar .... run, do not walk, away from this boat that probably has a 'rust frozen' engine where the piston rings are rusted in their piston ring grooves and the rings are firmly rusted TO the cylinder walls, and the exhaust valve stems are firmly rusted and frozen 'in place' etc.
The last pic - that 'black thing' is a water lift muffler ... which means that the original concentric COPPER jacketed steel exhaust system developed leaks, which gives a high probability that those leaks reverse-flooded water back into the engine .... perhaps the very reason that the (probably rust-frozen) engine went 'click' when you attempted to start it.
If this engine doesn't turn 'easily' by hand and without 'any' force with a breaker bar and socket attached to the nose bolt on that crankshaft .... DO NOT FORCE the crankshaft or use the starter .... or you'll wind up breaking the piston rings. If this is the case, you must soak and free-up the piston rings with 'penetrating oil', ctc. etc.etc. and then gently get them moving for their entire piston stroke. If this engine is 'frozen' (can't rotate the crankshaft with a breaker bar and socket) ..... either PM me directly or contact MoyerMarine directly for further advice.
Last edited by RichH; 05-15-2017 at 12:16 AM.