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I’m repowering a A-4 (gas) to a Beta 16 diesel. The Beta manual sez to put in a water separator. Got it but nowadays nobody sells just water separators. They’re all combined filters/separators unit like the ubiquitous RACOR 500FG. By happenstance in the my garage's piles of boat stuff There’s a Perkins “sedimenter” which looks and smells like just the right thing… no filter just separates the water. The Beta has a pretty robust spin-on filter on the engine so using the Perkins unit seems a good fit. But…. some in the know say to add a RACOR anyway because the cost of replacing spin on filters and it gives double filtration. But if I did I’d be replacing both filters annually. Is adding a second in-line filter adding value when the engine filter is a robust one? Would a separator-only and maybe a vacuume gage on the engine filter do just as well? What say you?
On engine filters are classified as secondary filters and should supplemented by another (Primary) filter. The on engine filters are manufacturer specified to protect the engines fuel injection system and will trap particles down to approx. 10 microns, they are of small capacity and if fed with 'bad' fuel can block-up very quickly. The use of a larger 'Primary filter' with water separator with a filter size of 30 or 50 microns will catch a majority of the gunk and water that will stop your engine and ultimately damage your fuel system. They can also be located where they can be serviced much more easily than most manufacturer supplied on-engine oil filters
Yes! Exactly what r. says! It is waaaay cheaper in the long run to add a primary filter/separator (Racor is good) than to sieze up a high-press fuel injection pump $$$$$$$$
I am in total agreement with the previous post. The spin on filters on the engine are not intended to be the primary filter. Add a good 30 micron filter/water seperator in an easy to get to location, and it will simplify your life.
If the Beta doesn't have an electric fuel pump, add one at the tank. You may never need it, but if you do, one time will be well worth the cost.
The most expensive part of the diesel engine is the high pressure fuel pump. The most sensitive component to fuel contamination on the engine is the high pressure fuel pump. Protect your engine from contaminated fuel and with proper oil changes, it will easily last over 5,000 hrs. Fuel filter/ seperators can be found under $100 and installed in under an hour. For an extra $40 you should be able to find a vacuum gage with tell-tail pointer to alert you to when the filter needs to be changed.
One of the advantages of the ubiquitous Racor 500fg is that you can change the filter without bleeding the fuel system if you top off the filter holder with a little fresh diesel. You can't do that with the on-engine filters.
I agree, I use our product "TankMate" on my boat. I have used other products a long time ago, but we developed one with no moving parts, no filters, and it separates all the water/algae/sand, dirt, etc.. from the fuel to allow consistent running of my engine. Good luck with whatever you decide to use, but use something that is effective. Tankmate | Diesel Fuel Cleaner and Polisher
Hey, you are suffering from false economy in not putting in a filter/sperator, every diesel on the road has one for the reasons given. The filters for my older racor are cheap at 16 bucks and easy to change. So why not?
You're spending good money on a new engine and being penny wise and pound foolish rarely wins in the end. The "ubiquitous" Racor 500 series is ubiquitous for a reason, it is a great filter.
You really need to know what nominal the nominal micron rating of the secondary filter is. If the on-engine filter is a 3µM you'll want a 10µM primary. If the on-engine is a 10µM or a 15µM then you'll want a 30µM filter..
Parker/Racor also makes a less expensive spin on line of filters than the 500 series....
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