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post #7 of Old 05-04-2010
RalphJS
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Fairlead for chain.

You read the problem, the solution is to lead the chain downward from the roller to LOW in front of the windlass, so it engages many of the links into the link-grippers (whatever they are called.) The SS chain pawl is through-bolted to the deck with large SS washers as backing plates, positioned a few inches in front of the windlass (6"?). The chain pawl is a SS fitting with a removable horizontal pin. Normally on the pin is a slotted piece that works as a ratchet -- it hops over each link as the chain is wound in, but won't allow the chain to go back out, sort of a one-way swing action. I removed the pin and the ratchet piece. Replaced the ratchet piece with a section of 1 1/2" bronze pipe (I happened to have) same length as the ratchet piece is wide, and returned the pin (through the pipe) into the deck fitting of the chain pawl, with the chain led under it. Now I have a horizontal pipe roller with the anchor chain under it. The chain is led from the bow roller, downward to under the pipe roller, then sharply upward over the windlass. Chain no longer hops as a strain comes on it, but stays "in the grooves." I hope this helps. SS pipe would be nicer, but I used what I had, and it won't rust.
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