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post #3 of Old 06-05-2011
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I bought a Loos Gauge for checking tensions in the standing rig and used it to re-step my mast after I overhauled it back in 07-08. Unfortunately, I bought it after I'd already taken the mast down, so I'll never know what the rigging was set at prior to dismasting.

When re-stepping the mast, I followed the recommendations in the Loos Gauge booklet for 7/32" wire (all shrouds & stays, except splitstay - 3/16"); ~1000 #'s in the stays, ~800 in the shrouds. Since then I've done a bit of sailing and have increased the tension in both by ~100#'s.

I noted to Paul Comte earlier that after re-building the glass beneath the deck plate for the mast step, the mast actually leans forward at the base. So I've added some mast bend into the static location of the rig to bring the masthead plumb with the mast base. Not alot of bend, maybe 1.5" on a vertical stringline.

If you've got the original mast, with 3/32" wall thickness, and original in-line spreaders, then you won't want much mast bend. Maybe someone else can correct me on that. It seems reasonable that the tension that you first settle on should be somewhere close to the original settings, unless you sail your boat really hard. 1/3 of the breaking strength of 1x19 316SS wire (~5400#'s) would be a good upper limit on static tension, especially since you need to worry about galling the threads between stud & turnbuckle as you increase the static load. I always use generous amounts of Silicon spray (wish they sold Mclube here in town) on threaded parts when re-rigging.

The Loos Gauge book has a procedure for re-rigging from scratch, and I believe it says to start with the upper shrouds, then move to the stays, and finally the lowers. I might have that backwards. If we had a professional rigger here in town, I'd hire them to tune my rig correctly once. I'd record the settings, then adjust as necessary based on performance in local sailing conditions. My 10-cents...

~Joel Osburn
S/V Optiminum
1976 I28
Juneau, AK
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