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post #11 of 20 Old 12-11-2015
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

I wouldn't try lowing the mast while in the water yourself. That spar is really heavy. You don't need to take the boat out of the water, just motor somewhere that has a small crane that will pull the mast off. If there isn't anywhere to work on it on land, just make a cradle to rest it on the deck of the boat. The chainplates on my B27 are pretty simple design, however, each one is formed around the irregularities in the knees to some extent. I don't know if they pounded them into this shape when installed, or they just took this shape after years of use.

Check out the Bristol owners group on Yahoo.

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post #12 of 20 Old 12-11-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

Much appreciated.

I talked with another bristol owner based out on the east coast. He pulls his mast down every season for storage. His boats all original as it only has seen freshwater.

Apparently the deck step for the mast is only about an inch tall, and he said his whole setup is around 150lbs. He's been pulling his mast down and storing it every year for the last 32 years...

I wouldn't do it alone, i would be doing it with a friend or two. All that said, it might just be cheaper to have a lift come in, and do the weight for us.
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post #13 of 20 Old 12-13-2015
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

Without a crane, I think the only way I would be comfortable lowering the mast, is if there is a tabernacle mast step. I lowered the mast on our Catalina 22 regularly with my wife. We had an A-frame set-up that would keep some lateral control. However, that arrangement put a lot of forward pressure on the mast step that would be dangerous if it slipped.

I have heard of people tying off under a bridge and using a long rope with block and tackle to lower the mast.

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post #14 of 20 Old 12-13-2015
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

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Originally Posted by Barquito View Post
I have heard of people tying off under a bridge and using a long rope with block and tackle to lower the mast.
Yes, some brave soul did that in my very local sailing area. Worked good except passing motorists reported a sailboat hit and stuck on the bridge, and the police came and warned him not to do it again. Not to mention the current under the bridge.

The difference in weight and leverage between the mast on a 23 ft. boat and a 27 ft. boat is night and day. You would need an unbelievably good setup and quite good rigging skills. I wouldn't try it on the water, unless proved to work very well on land. Further, I'd start by testing the system raising the mast. Lowering it requires that it absolutely work right the first time, raising it you can set it back if it won't go through the hard places.
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post #15 of 20 Old 12-13-2015
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

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post #16 of 20 Old 12-14-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

I recently found out the mast step on the Bristol 27 is only about an inch or two tall, not very much if you ask me.

That said, when the time comes to do the rigging we will hire a crane to pull it for us. I prefer spending $200 on a crane, having some security in it.

All that said, I am going to do this in 2 stages.

Stage 1: replace all chainplates, doing 1 at a time.

Stage 2: Replace standing rigging and inspect mast.


That being said, does anyone have the manufacturer specs of the chainplates for the bristol 27?

Also anyone in the Pacific North West(mainly near Everett) has a reliable and reputable fabricator that they would recommend for me to have my chainplates made?

If i can find the manufacturer design for the chainplates, ill have them all fabricated to manufacutrer specs, then just replace one at a time, otherwise I'll need to pull 1, drive to the fabrication shop, have them fabricate it(how long will this take? I have no clue), then drive back to the boat to install, rinse/repeat 7 more times(8 total chainplates).

This wont account for any issues we encounter during the pull of plates, which i hope is minimal. I'm hoping that the chainplate knee's don't have any wet spots. Any way to test this before actually pulling the chainplate?
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post #17 of 20 Old 12-15-2015
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

Maybe you'll get lucky and the chain plates will all be the same. That was the case on my boat. They should be the same side to side unless the anchor points are significantly different. A quick inspection and measurement should tell you if they are. You could pull both of the cap shroud chainplates at the same time with halyards to something secure on the deck replacing the shrouds. Then do the lower afts or fwds respectively. The mast will stand just fine with only either the fwd or aft lowers in place.



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Originally Posted by chowdan View Post
I recently found out the mast step on the Bristol 27 is only about an inch or two tall, not very much if you ask me.

That said, when the time comes to do the rigging we will hire a crane to pull it for us. I prefer spending $200 on a crane, having some security in it.

All that said, I am going to do this in 2 stages.

Stage 1: replace all chainplates, doing 1 at a time.

Stage 2: Replace standing rigging and inspect mast.


That being said, does anyone have the manufacturer specs of the chainplates for the bristol 27?

Also anyone in the Pacific North West(mainly near Everett) has a reliable and reputable fabricator that they would recommend for me to have my chainplates made?

If i can find the manufacturer design for the chainplates, ill have them all fabricated to manufacutrer specs, then just replace one at a time, otherwise I'll need to pull 1, drive to the fabrication shop, have them fabricate it(how long will this take? I have no clue), then drive back to the boat to install, rinse/repeat 7 more times(8 total chainplates).

This wont account for any issues we encounter during the pull of plates, which i hope is minimal. I'm hoping that the chainplate knee's don't have any wet spots. Any way to test this before actually pulling the chainplate?
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post #18 of 20 Old 12-15-2015 Thread Starter
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

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Originally Posted by roverhi View Post
Maybe you'll get lucky and the chain plates will all be the same. That was the case on my boat. They should be the same side to side unless the anchor points are significantly different. A quick inspection and measurement should tell you if they are. You could pull both of the cap shroud chainplates at the same time with halyards to something secure on the deck replacing the shrouds. Then do the lower afts or fwds respectively. The mast will stand just fine with only either the fwd or aft lowers in place.
Yeah, i've been thinking about this over the past few days.

Ill be at the boat this weekend. Ill be taking detailed measurements to see how different the chainplates are from one another.

I'm thinking ill be doing the chainplates in a "quadrant" style sectioning.

The process for chainplate install/reinstall will be as follow:
Quadrant 1(remove, have fabricated, reinstall):
Lower aft port
Lower aft starboard

Quadrant 2(remove, have fabricated, reinstall):
lower fore port
lower fore starboard

Quadrant 3(remove, have fabricated, reinstall):
upper port
upper starboard

Quadrant 4(remove, have fabricated, reinstall):
bow

Quadrant 5(remove, have fabricated, reinstall):
stern

With the lowers, I will be doing both sides at one time. I also plan to loosen the tension on the lower fore/aft shrouds just a touch as well, while leaving all mast head ones as is.

While the lowers are being fabricated, since all my running rigging is new as of 2014, I will be using halyards for main and jib as support. If i feel the need, ill also add some other halyards to increase support.

Once lowers are completely replaced, fore and aft, I will then work on the uppers at a single time, being port and starboard, all the while using halyards to give the structural support(using 1-3 lines for the support lines).

Then i'll proceed with the bow shroud, I am also thinking I will loosen the stern shroud just a touch and crank down on the supporting halyard as well.

The same process will occur for the stern shroud as we did on the bow, just the opposite end of the boat.

Once all of that is complete, I have enough compelling evidence that I do NOT need to lower the mast to replace the shrouds. The shrouds will be done one at a time, not in quadrants like the chainplates.

I will be doing the lowers first, then the uppers on both port/starboard, then will proceed on with the bow and stern shrouds.

As long as I feel confident that the chainplates and knees are in good shape, and the lower shrouds are also in new condition (I will be using the stay-loc or something similar) I am confident that due to the minimal lateral forces, especially on a clear not windy day and being in a marina, it is perfectly safe to do with the mast in place.

This also is on the condition that after goig up and down the mast for inspections, i see no evidence of issues that need addressing. Given that i do find something that I feel untrust worthy about, the mast WILL be pulled for further inspection and repairs along with shroud replacements
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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

I think it should not take to long or cost too much to pull the stick. Lots of folks do it annually for winter storage. I can't see being charged more than a couple hundred dollars to pull it, store it someplace you can work on it, and put it back up. It will make all the work easier, and much safer. Do it all at once, as in pull stick, send out rigging and chain-plates(make sure you mark and label everything very well, and take lots of photos before and as you disconnect everything). Thing is when it is down you can do things like paint the base and really check on the spreaders. If they are wood and have not been painted and varnished often likely to need assistance as well. Sheaves in the mast may need to be changed over for all rope, rather than rope/wire halyards. If you are working on this full time you can likely do it quickly if it is down, and it will take a lot longer doing things one at a time while it is up.

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Re: Replacing standing rigging/chainplates on B27 while in the water

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Originally Posted by miatapaul View Post
I think it should not take to long or cost too much to pull the stick. Lots of folks do it annually for winter storage. I can't see being charged more than a couple hundred dollars to pull it, store it someplace you can work on it, and put it back up. It will make all the work easier, and much safer. Do it all at once, as in pull stick, send out rigging and chain-plates(make sure you mark and label everything very well, and take lots of photos before and as you disconnect everything). Thing is when it is down you can do things like paint the base and really check on the spreaders. If they are wood and have not been painted and varnished often likely to need assistance as well. Sheaves in the mast may need to be changed over for all rope, rather than rope/wire halyards. If you are working on this full time you can likely do it quickly if it is down, and it will take a lot longer doing things one at a time while it is up.
I have considered this, but considering I'll need about 280 feet of cable + Ill be using 17 swagless terminals(one extra for the oppsy first one), the price will be pushing $1600, which does not include any chainplate costs. I'd rather replace the chainplates now, doing one by one, than spending an extra $360 on just pulling and putting the mast back up, on top of the fees that the yard would charge for either the boat or mast storage.

I dont have the option to do this full time, i work close to 80 hours a week which means from i have about 9PM to 11PM for a few nights a week or 1 single weekend day to work on the boat. Doing chainplate replacement in quadrants as described above, means in about 6 weeks I could have them all replaced. Week 1 pull and send off chainplate. Week 2 mount new plates, pull new ones for making, Week 3 mount new ones, pull another set and so forth.

If i could take, say 5 days off of work to pull the mast, pull chainplates, have them made in a day or two, and replace all standing rigging and restep mast would be my priority, but I lack the continious free time and do not have the cash to fork out for the whole job unfortunately. When up the pole, I'll be inspecting it, and if i see any serious troubles, then my only option would be to pull the mast and just bite the cost in terms of having it sit idle for multiple days on end while i continue to work my normal job.
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