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post #11 of 23 Old 05-21-2019
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Re: Bristol 32

Do you have a centerboard model? If you do, you will find removal instruction video as well.

Eric
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1968 Bristol 32 Keel/Crb Hull 26
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post #12 of 23 Old 05-21-2019
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Re: Bristol 32

What is/was the name of your boat when she was in my area?

Eric
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1968 Bristol 32 Keel/Crb Hull 26
Narragansett Bay RI USA
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post #13 of 23 Old 05-21-2019
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Re: Bristol 32

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What is/was the name of your boat when she was in my area?
Eric, She sailed as "Five Stars", before her name change. Thanks again for the great info.
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post #14 of 23 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Bristol 32

Ok, after getting intimate with our B32, we've found a few things that i'm not sure what to make. First, there's more thru hulls on this boat than any other i've sailed. There's six thru hulls on the starboard side, four on the port side and a nasty looking transducer installed just below the front of the keel. It's painted too, so not sure it even works. It's mounted on a large plastic base. Everything on this boat has been disconnected or cut, so we can choose how to re wire/plumb most projects. We're going to install a composting toilet, so that will take care of 2 of the 3 thru hulls under the head. We'd like to keep the sink drain and either use a manual pump or electric pump for hand washing, etc. The most forward thru hull on the starboard side is located midship, about 3/4's of a way up towards the bow under the settee. It is only capped with a screw on cap. It sits approximately 1 foot from the centerline and about 2 feet aft from the front of the keel. Also on the starboard side there's fillet where the keel tapers to the hull. This is where a grilled thru hull is located. I'm thinking this is probably the raw water intake for the engine and the other grilled thru hull aft of this, is for the raw water for flushing the old head, (that's where the hose indicates) Lastly, there's another hole at the bottom of the keel about 3 inches from the bottom. There's no threaded plug, just a stopper, which imo, is nuts! I'd like to glass this over and just use an extractor to pull any water out from inside the cabin, as the access to the bilge is good. This boat has a Universal M30 diesel, so any thoughts on which thru hull to use for the engine and gray water would be appreciated. We'd have to glass over 5 thru hulls to use this boat the way we'd like. Any input is welcomed. Thanks for your time. Pics to follow...

John
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post #15 of 23 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Bristol 32

Boats do have a lot of holes in their bottoms. From your description it sounds like you need 7 (or maybe 8) thru-hulls:
1) Engine raw cooling water intake (should be located near the center line of the boat and near the engine, but in an accessible location with adequate room for a strainer and winterizing Y-valve to be installed)
2) Engine Exhaust (above water line near stern)
3) & 4) Two for the cockpit scuppers
5) Sink and other gray water drain (you might be able to y this into the scuppers)
6) Depth sounder
7) Knot meter
8) Saltwater intake( If you make long passages using a salt water faucet to start a dish wash or body wash can save a lot of water, this may also be used for a anchor wash down.)

Other possibilities might include a refrigerator drain if you use ice, and a gray water drain for the sink in the head.

And that does not include the holes in the bottom of the boat for the propeller shaft or rudder post.

Jeff
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post #16 of 23 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Bristol 32

I just replied, took an hour. And when I posted it...I got disconnected. I'll get back to you on all that later.

Eric
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1968 Bristol 32 Keel/Crb Hull 26
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post #17 of 23 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Re: Bristol 32

Jeff, thanks for the reply. I like the idea of a "Y" connector for both the galley sink and cockpit scuppers. There's a hose that runs under the ice box to the bilge, so that should be ok. The head sink, thankfully has a seacock for the drain just below the vanity. The idea, is to glass over the two remain thru hulls in the head, the one starboard midship, (unless this could be a good location for the depth sounder?). The bilge drain will certainly get glassed over. I'm trying to determine where the best location for a water strainer would be too.
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Re: Bristol 32

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Jeff, thanks for the reply. I like the idea of a "Y" connector for both the galley sink and cockpit scuppers. There's a hose that runs under the ice box to the bilge, so that should be ok. The head sink, thankfully has a seacock for the drain just below the vanity. The idea, is to glass over the two remain thru hulls in the head, the one starboard midship, (unless this could be a good location for the depth sounder?). The bilge drain will certainly get glassed over. I'm trying to determine where the best location for a water strainer would be too.
I don't know where you are located but if you are up north and haul out for the winter, the bilge drain is worth its weight in gold in terms of not having to worry about having water freezing and thawing and destroying the bond between the ballast keel and the keel envelope because once that bond is destroyed, it can't be fixed and without it you have greatly diminished the strength of the keel and its resistance to grounding.

Jeff


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post #19 of 23 Old 1 Week Ago
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Re: Bristol 32

Does anyone know how the deck to hull joint is achieved? We've rebed everything, but still get some water in the shelves throughout the cabin. We're thinking of sealing the toerail better as I guess this design has the inboard flange. Although, I can't find moisture on any bolts. Perhaps the liner could be be bringing water from another location and finding it's way into the cabin. Thanks for any input.

Last edited by johnld; 4 Days Ago at 08:39 AM.
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post #20 of 23 Old 4 Days Ago
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Re: Bristol 32

I have to cut out rotten wooden shelves that are glassed into the hull in the engine area. One is in front and slightly under the engine, above the bilge. The other is under the cockpit locker on the starboard side. I think this is to either mount something or to help when sitting inside. The thought is to cut out the rooted wood and grind flush to the hull. Replace with new wood, (possibly epoxy coated for protection), and install. I'm curious what kind of FG I should use for this? I'm thinking woven roving, so I can make a flange that's half on the new wood and half on the hull. Any thoughts or experiences?
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