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Bristol 32

7K views 29 replies 8 participants last post by  Delta-T 
#1 ·
My 1979 Bristol 32 went trough hurricanes Irma and Maria here in St. Thomas. I need to replace all my standing rigging. I’m missing a spreader. I’d like to know how I could get another one or get dimensions to make a new one. Also, what engines would easily fit as a replacement? It currently has a yanmar 2qm 15 that I’m going to junk.
 
#2 ·
Welcome to Sailnet.

The standing rigging should be easy, Any rigger can do that. If you have one spreader, just have it copied. As to the engine, a similar sized Beta would be a common choice. You also may be able to find a similar Yanmar like a 2GM. There may be one from a damaged boat that didn't get flooded that is being parted out.
 
#7 ·
I'm going to start with my engine. I have a Universal M30 diesel 24hp (5424) and need a water muffler. Can anyone recommend a size and brand for this engine. I'd also like to install a siphon break to keep water out of the cylinders via the exhaust, but the muffler should be large enough to accommodate this 3 cylinder. I have the fuel tank which will need to be cleaned, but also need recommendations on Racor filters. What would be the signs for an engine that has experienced overheating?
 
#9 ·

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#14 ·
Ok, after getting intimate with our B32, we've found a few things that i'm not sure what to make. First, there's more thru hulls on this boat than any other i've sailed. There's six thru hulls on the starboard side, four on the port side and a nasty looking transducer installed just below the front of the keel. It's painted too, so not sure it even works. It's mounted on a large plastic base. Everything on this boat has been disconnected or cut, so we can choose how to re wire/plumb most projects. We're going to install a composting toilet, so that will take care of 2 of the 3 thru hulls under the head. We'd like to keep the sink drain and either use a manual pump or electric pump for hand washing, etc. The most forward thru hull on the starboard side is located midship, about 3/4's of a way up towards the bow under the settee. It is only capped with a screw on cap. It sits approximately 1 foot from the centerline and about 2 feet aft from the front of the keel. Also on the starboard side there's fillet where the keel tapers to the hull. This is where a grilled thru hull is located. I'm thinking this is probably the raw water intake for the engine and the other grilled thru hull aft of this, is for the raw water for flushing the old head, (that's where the hose indicates) Lastly, there's another hole at the bottom of the keel about 3 inches from the bottom. There's no threaded plug, just a stopper, which imo, is nuts! I'd like to glass this over and just use an extractor to pull any water out from inside the cabin, as the access to the bilge is good. This boat has a Universal M30 diesel, so any thoughts on which thru hull to use for the engine and gray water would be appreciated. We'd have to glass over 5 thru hulls to use this boat the way we'd like. Any input is welcomed. Thanks for your time. Pics to follow...

John
 
#15 ·
Boats do have a lot of holes in their bottoms. From your description it sounds like you need 7 (or maybe 8) thru-hulls:
1) Engine raw cooling water intake (should be located near the center line of the boat and near the engine, but in an accessible location with adequate room for a strainer and winterizing Y-valve to be installed)
2) Engine Exhaust (above water line near stern)
3) & 4) Two for the cockpit scuppers
5) Sink and other gray water drain (you might be able to y this into the scuppers)
6) Depth sounder
7) Knot meter
8) Saltwater intake( If you make long passages using a salt water faucet to start a dish wash or body wash can save a lot of water, this may also be used for a anchor wash down.)

Other possibilities might include a refrigerator drain if you use ice, and a gray water drain for the sink in the head.

And that does not include the holes in the bottom of the boat for the propeller shaft or rudder post.

Jeff
 
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#17 ·
Jeff, thanks for the reply. I like the idea of a "Y" connector for both the galley sink and cockpit scuppers. There's a hose that runs under the ice box to the bilge, so that should be ok. The head sink, thankfully has a seacock for the drain just below the vanity. The idea, is to glass over the two remain thru hulls in the head, the one starboard midship, (unless this could be a good location for the depth sounder?). The bilge drain will certainly get glassed over. I'm trying to determine where the best location for a water strainer would be too.
 
#18 ·
I don't know where you are located but if you are up north and haul out for the winter, the bilge drain is worth its weight in gold in terms of not having to worry about having water freezing and thawing and destroying the bond between the ballast keel and the keel envelope because once that bond is destroyed, it can't be fixed and without it you have greatly diminished the strength of the keel and its resistance to grounding.

Jeff
 
#19 · (Edited)
Does anyone know how the deck to hull joint is achieved? We've rebed everything, but still get some water in the shelves throughout the cabin. We're thinking of sealing the toerail better as I guess this design has the inboard flange. Although, I can't find moisture on any bolts. Perhaps the liner could be be bringing water from another location and finding it's way into the cabin. Thanks for any input.
 
#22 ·
We do have detailed hull to deck joint details in the yahoo group. Is there a sail track on the deck? Also the water could be coming from above like you say...handrails, turtle, windows are famous for leaking and the dorades.
 
#20 ·
I have to cut out rotten wooden shelves that are glassed into the hull in the engine area. One is in front and slightly under the engine, above the bilge. The other is under the cockpit locker on the starboard side. I think this is to either mount something or to help when sitting inside. The thought is to cut out the rooted wood and grind flush to the hull. Replace with new wood, (possibly epoxy coated for protection), and install. I'm curious what kind of FG I should use for this? I'm thinking woven roving, so I can make a flange that's half on the new wood and half on the hull. Any thoughts or experiences?
 
#24 ·
I must say that is a good example of how not to do a hull to deck joint repair. The choice of 5200 as a sealant material, the use of a single layer of fiberglass cloth with polyester resin to seal the openings, mixing silicone sealant into the collection of materials, creating a straight path with the new screws for water entry. Its a lot of work and I hoped it kept the water out, but it does not strike me as a long term solution.

Jeff
 
#27 ·
My understanding is that 5200 is very hard to remove and the substrate would give before the 5200. I was told that 4200 would suffice as it has more flexibility. We've sealed the toerail with a degree of success with water intrusion, but will continue to seal the jib track bolts.
 
#28 ·
My understanding is that 5200 is very hard to remove and the substrate would give before the 5200.
While it is true that 5200 is hard to remove, in the case of fiberglass or teak, its not likely that the substrate would give before the 5200. When you hear comments like that, it is usually based on some form of an impromptu peel test. Normally removing an object held by 5200 starts with slicing the 5200 and then using a scraper to remove it. I understand that there are also chemical bond releasers that work on 5200.

My bigger problem with 5200 is that in my experience its a great adhesive, but long term its not all that effective as a sealant.

Jeff
 
#30 ·
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