Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 24 Old 12-29-2017 Thread Starter
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Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

So I've narrowed down my "future boat" (this spring or next fall purchase) to 3 makers and models. One of which is the C&C 35 MKII. I really like alot about this boat, and in my area you get alot of boat for the price.

"Wet decks" I see come up alot, but it seems to me almost any boat over 30yrs old that isn't "boat show restored" will most likely have them to some degree. I'm shopping freshwater only boats so that reduces the biological life that will be eating the balsa, but I'm also dealing with freeze\thaw cycles, so maybe it's a trade off. My current boat has some wet core in it (plywood, the worst to get wet as far as I know) but it's far from about to fall apart. I assume most "wet decks" are ok to live with unless you see serious flexing\cracking around load points like cleats\winches etc?

I see alot about the floor\stringers and keel bolts. Is this an actual issue on these boats or are people just talking in general about bolt on keels? I assume most of the floor bits can be inspected easily through the bilge and sole hatches? Anything I should look for? I've read to watch for iron washers and replace w\SS if found. Has anyone snapped a bolt\stud off while re-torquing them? That's always my biggest worry when "torquing" anything (yes using a proper torque wrench).

Here's my biggest set back so far: rod rigging. I heard alot of the 35's came with rod? Any truth to this? I hate rod rigging. The boats I've found with it are ORIGINAL (40+yrs old!) and it's expensive and difficult to find a rigger who does rod. In fact in my area there is NO ONE who can replace rod. Unless I found a boat that had a receipt showing the rod was new I would avoid buying one just because I can't change out the standing rigging on a rod rigged boat myself.

So, anything else I should look for? I'm upgrading from my T7.5 because we need a bigger boat for family\friends to come out with us, to be more sturdy in a blow, and one day to look at an ICW trip and Caribbean trip.

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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

I advise you to post your question at the dedicated C&C forum: C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center

That said, you could hardly go wrong with a 35 MkII, so long as you inspect for the usual issues. For 35 MkII-specific issues, the C&C forum can help you.
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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

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I advise you to post your question at the dedicated C&C forum: C&C Yachts - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center

That said, you could hardly go wrong with a 35 MkII, so long as you inspect for the usual issues. For 35 MkII-specific issues, the C&C forum can help you.
Thanks, I know of that site but find it very hard to navigate. I don't see a "forum" button on it, but there's an email distribution list if that's what you meant? I also wasn't sure the etiquette of registering on an owners site when I'm not (and may not end up being) an owner.

That's kind of why I was asking here, there always seems to be a flow of great experience here that's easy to access.

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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

No problem. I'm pretty sure the email distro is the way to go about it. I'm also sure that they don't mind prospective owners asking questions.

I'm no C&C expert but I did race on a 35 Mk III for several years.

- I think when mentioning keel bolts, that this is a general item to inspect, not a specific weakness of the C&C 35. I wouldn't worry about re-torquing unless the keel shows signs of wobble or separation at the joint.
- Rod rigging- The Mk III had rod for certain but I'm unsure if the Mk II's came rod-rigged. However, you can change to wire, you just need to select a wire that is spec'd to carry the same load that the rod carried. The wire is typically larger in diameter, but I cannot be more specific than that. Yes, rod is expensive but it has a longer service life. It may be a simple matter of re-heading the rod. A rigger will tell you if the rod cannot be re-headed. If it can't, then you need to think about replacing everything.
- Wet core- All you can do, is try to find the best maintained specimen that you can afford. Make damned sure that the hull core is dry. The deck core can be dealt with.

You already know that a freshwater boat will probably have fewer issues, assuming that it was conscientiously maintained. You seem to have a good handle on the situation, I wouldn't worry.

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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

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No problem. I'm pretty sure the email distro is the way to go about it. I'm also sure that they don't mind prospective owners asking questions.

I'm no C&C expert but I did race on a 35 Mk III for several years.

- I think when mentioning keel bolts, that this is a general item to inspect, not a specific weakness of the C&C 35. I wouldn't worry about re-torquing unless the keel shows signs of wobble or separation at the joint.
- Rod rigging- The Mk III had rod for certain but I'm unsure if the Mk II's came rod-rigged. However, you can change to wire, you just need to select a wire that is spec'd to carry the same load that the rod carried. The wire is typically larger in diameter, but I cannot be more specific than that. Yes, rod is expensive but it has a longer service life. It may be a simple matter of re-heading the rod. A rigger will tell you if the rod cannot be re-headed. If it can't, then you need to think about replacing everything.
- Wet core- All you can do, is try to find the best maintained specimen that you can afford. Make damned sure that the hull core is dry. The deck core can be dealt with.

You already know that a freshwater boat will probably have fewer issues, assuming that it was conscientiously maintained. You seem to have a good handle on the situation, I wouldn't worry.
Thanks for the input Ajax, much appreciated!

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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

It's always surprisingly difficult to be certain, but I believe the 35MKII still had a solid glass hull with cored deck. The slightly newer 29, 34 and 36 (along with early custom builds) were the beginning of cored hulls, if I've got it right.

I don't think the C&Cs in general had any significant floor/keel bolt issues and probably fewer than some other brands.

You can certainly get a lot of boat for the buck esp if you find a good one.

You said 'narrowed down to 3'... what others?
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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

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It's always surprisingly difficult to be certain, but I believe the 35MKII still had a solid glass hull with cored deck. The slightly newer 29, 34 and 36 (along with early custom builds) were the beginning of cored hulls, if I've got it right.

I don't think the C&Cs in general had any significant floor/keel bolt issues and probably fewer than some other brands.

You can certainly get a lot of boat for the buck esp if you find a good one.

You said 'narrowed down to 3'... what others?
Thanks Faster, yes from what I've read the MKI and MKII's in the 35 were solid FRP hulls with balsa decks. In the 80's with the MKIII's and newer models I've heard cored at or slightly above the waterline for hulls.

I'm also looking at CS33's, and Aloha 34's currently. Not to say another boat model can't wander into my scope, but it needs to be affordable (the CS33's are the top end of the price scale currently), safe\well constructed, be a masthead sloop, solid glass hull, and preferebly no big "gotcha" expense items like rod rigging, saildrive, etc. Size range minimum 33' max 36'.
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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

One thought, I think CS 33s were diesel powered, C&C 35s came standard with an atomic 4. If you could find a C&C that's been repowered with diesel, that might be a nice selling feature.
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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

The CS boats are beautifully tooled, the one knock on (some) 33s is the lack of any sort of quarter berth - I think that changed during the production run. If overnight guests are not anticipated that may not be such a big deal. Very handsome boats and also very well regarded.

The Aloha 34 is probably the most 'liveable' of the three but (IMO) not as 'sexy' as the other two. However Ted Brewer is another skilled designer and the boat is probably very well behaved.

An early Mirage 33? They seem to sell for quite a bit less than the later '35' (same boat with a reverse transom). A slippery Perry design, very liveable layout if a bit 'frigidaire' below with a lot of gelcoat. Friends had one and they added a Teak and holly sole and some ceiling treatment for a much warmer vibe.

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Re: Looking at buying a 70's C&C 35 MKII, thoughts?

Arcb - you are exactly right, and in fact I'm in the process of talking to a broker who has a C&C 35 w\yanmar 30 in it. Unfortunately it doesn't state the rigging type, but in one picture I see what appears to be a manual "wheel style" backstay adjuster which makes me think it's rod rigged.

Faster- I actually had the mirage 33 on my list, I just stopped looking because they all seemed to fit in the CS33 price ranger or higher for some reason. Maybe supply\demand in my area, but I will keep looking! I really liked one Aloha 34 I saw come up last year, VERY affordable too, I just wasn't in a position to buy it and I "missed the boat" on it (you're welcome for that terrible pun on a Friday). I did see another one listed but it's at the 40k range and out of this guys price range.

I've been doing more and more googling and it seems like tons of C&C 35's came rod rigged. In fact if I just search "rod rigging conversion" or project I immediately run into some blogs with C&C's being worked on. It's not boding well if I wanted to avoid rod...

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