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post #1 of 9 Old 01-02-2017 Thread Starter
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Running rigging replacement

Happy NewYear!

Hi folks,

I'm replacing my running rigging, and am now a little confused. I pulled the topping lift, main, and jib halyards (using a messenger line) and it seems that all the lines are 1/4" wide. All the documentation I see for my 78 Catalina 27 specifies 5/16". Am I not measuring the lines correctly? Are they really 5/16"?

Also, I read that if purchasing sta-set x I need 3/8" line. If purchasing T-900 I need 5/16". Any guidance or experience would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Smitty
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-02-2017
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Re: Running rigging replacement

StaSet is plenty strong enough in 5/16" for your boat. If you don't mind the weight and want/need the better hand of 3/8" line, go for it. The PO may have used 1/4" line to save weight and reduce windage or simply because they were cheap. Also, 5/16" that has been stretched and worn in normal service may shrink. If you have roller furling, 5/16' StaSet would be my choice. If you want lower stretch for the main halyard, might look at New England VPC. That's a blend of exotic and dacron fibers that's lower stretch than StaSet X but not as expensive as T-900.

I don't like StaSet X because the straight lay of the core makes the line very stiff in use. For a Furling headsail that you will handle infrequently, might consider it but not for a main or spinnaker halyard. I wouldn't use 1/4" for any halyard as it's just too tough on the hands and extremely difficult to hang onto under load.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-02-2017
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Re: Running rigging replacement

Depending on how cheap/old/stretched your line is, it may measure to 1/4" when it started at 5/16.

I strongly recommend against using 3/8" line on your Cat 27, the sheaves really aren't wide enough for it. Also instead of sta-set, or sta set x, look at VPC, if you find it on Ebay, or wait for a sale (usually around March) VPC is a better choice that is still pretty inexpensive. Stick with 5/16 and use VPC, or find something that stretches less than Sta-set.

i find it amazing that cruisers be like, oh I don't care I'm just out cruising, I'm not trying to get that last 0.5 knots.. well OK, but if you run with ridiculously loose halyards you are also running with baggy sails and suffering from LOTs of HEEL and not a lot of forward speed.

That's my worthless $0.02

Freedom, a 1983 C&C 32 sailing Smith Mountain Lake, VA

Last edited by SHNOOL; 01-02-2017 at 09:26 AM.
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Re: Running rigging replacement

Smitty-<br/>
You should bear in mind that rope "size" isn't carved in stone. If you look at the specs for rope that was available in 1980, you'll find things like Kevlar and Aramid cored line simply didn't exist. So what "required" a 5/8 line back then, may only require a 3/8 or 1/4 high strength line today. Except, sometimes you want a fatter line simply because it is easier to handle.<br/>
Bottom line, go with anything that is suitably rated, for strength. Is affordable, to your budget. Fits the existing hardware. And is easy to grip and doesn't cut into your hands. Unless you are racing, in which case pain doesn't matter and you want the thinnest lightest rope you can get, at any price.(G)
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Re: Running rigging replacement

Check the specs for your boat. We had a heck of a time raising our main and when we took the mast down discovered that the lines were too big for the sheaves. Bought all new lines of the proper size and it's like night and day. Replaced the sheaves, too, while it was down.

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Re: Running rigging replacement

Thanks everyone. I ordered 220' of 5/16" VPC from Defender.

Last edited by smitty225; 01-03-2017 at 11:05 AM.
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Re: Running rigging replacement

Forgive me if this is way over-obvious, but---

If you are not replacing sheaves at the same time, particularly masthead or boom-end ones:

Don't remove the old lines! Until you have the new lines, that is, and you can tape them (and/or sew them with a few runs of thread) directly onto the end of the existing one. Then you can pull them through. Voila!
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Re: Running rigging replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by nolatom View Post
Forgive me if this is way over-obvious, but---

If you are not replacing sheaves at the same time, particularly masthead or boom-end ones:

Don't remove the old lines! Until you have the new lines, that is, and you can tape them (and/or sew them with a few runs of thread) directly onto the end of the existing one. Then you can pull them through. Voila!

...okay. You are forgiven, this time. However, if you re-read my original post you'll see that I pulled the lines and replaced them with messenger lines. I did that so I could measure the length, and size of the lines.

Additionally, I won't put up the new lines until few weeks before the boat goes back in the water. I don't want to put the new lines up and have them just get rained and snowed on.

Smitty


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Re: Running rigging replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by smitty225 View Post
...okay. You are forgiven, this time. However, if you re-read my original post you'll see that I pulled the lines and replaced them with messenger lines. I did that so I could measure the length, and size of the lines.

Additionally, I won't put up the new lines until few weeks before the boat goes back in the water. I don't want to put the new lines up and have them just get rained and snowed on.

Smitty



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