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Water based anti-fouling in the Chesapeake

15K views 78 replies 21 participants last post by  chef2sail 
#1 · (Edited)
[I'm posting this in the Chesapeake sub-forum because selection of antifouling paint is specific to local waters.]

I've used Pettit solvent based antifouling paints with good results on my prior boat for the past 7 years (both Vivid and Ultima SR-40/PCA Gold). But that was in the "freshwater" Delaware River. Since moving my new boat to Rock Hall's brackish water last summer, I have higher salinity level and potential for hard growth, so paint selection will be much more important. The previous owner of my current boat had the Herrington Harbor slap some very low-end ablative on it just before I purchased, and it worked well for one season (except for barnacles on every spot that the paint didn't cover, like prop, shaft, and air conditioner strainer). The boat definitely needs fresh paint this year.

Paints have changed quite a bit since I last painted my prior boat. In 2015 BASF discontinued the Irgarol anti-slime additive (aka "NCN"), so paint compositions have changed a lot. Manufacturers are packing more copper in than they used to (Ultima SR-40 increased copper from 40% to 47.5%), and adding other ingredients like PTFE to enhance ablation in the absence of Irgarol.

Given that the paints I used to like have all changed, and I am in different waters than I used to be, I need to reconsider what paint I'm using. During the boat show, paint reps were pushing waterbased paints, saying that many Chesapeake boatyards are starting to switch to them. Of course, most of the market is powerboats, and what's best for powerboats may not be best for sailboats due to the need for different ablation rate.

So I'm interested in hearing recommendations from those who have purchased Irgarol-free paint in the past two years.

Just as a warning, any suggestion that starts with "I've been using this paint for x years" may get some push-back if x>2 years. Any paint bought before May of 2015 has likely been reformulated since you bought it.
 
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#2 ·
Keep in mind that the salinity in the upper bay is not really very high, and if the barnacles in the lower Delaware River avoided the painted areas, I would think they would avoid the paint in Chesapeake Bay as well. Might be something you would want to do a patch test with - just a small strip of fiberglass painted with the paint you are using and place it in the water in the marina at Rock Hall. If nothing grows on it in a few months, you're home safe. Kinda like the test that Practical Sailor did with various bottom paints.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 
#4 ·
Keep in mind that the salinity in the upper bay is not really very high, and if the barnacles in the lower Delaware River avoided the painted areas, I would think they would avoid the paint in Chesapeake Bay as well. ...
It depends.

In Rock Hall (considered the upper end of the middle bay) there have been a few years here and there since we came when the barnacles and growth were REALLY bad. Two years ago boats had to be hauled and cleaned a month after they were put in. We're around the area where heavy rain runoff from the Susquehanna makes a difference to the salinity line so every year can be different.

We choose our paint based on the list our marina provides and haven't had an issue.
 
#3 ·
I am not in the Chesapeake, but keep my boat and sail in Narragansett Bay. I had my hull soda blasted and barrier coated during the winter haulout 2011/2012. I also had the yard apply 3 coats (1 red, 2 blue) of Petit Hydrocoat. Since then I have scrubbed the bottom with a scouring pad and done a touch up before launch, or I have applied a new coat of Hydrocoat (every other spring - 2014 & 2016). During the season I scrub the hull with a brush in July or August.

I take pictures every year at haulout. I'd show you, but PhotoBucket seems to be having issues.

I would definitely go with Hydrocoat again. The prep for painting is to scrub with a scouring pad.
 
#6 ·
I used Hydrocoat on our previous boat in Deltaville and was quite happy with it compared to marina mates using competing products. Since the creeks didn't freeze over down there we typically hauled every other year and would do a touch up coat every haul out. Basically we didn't get any hard growth, but even for cruise-y standards, the bottom needed a wipe down for slime at least once or twice per season. That is pretty much what I've seen with every paint we've used on our boat from Deltaville to Herrington Harbor.

I switched back to Hydrocoat on our current boat this year and had similar performance for the first season. I'll only do a scuff and touch up on a couple of places this year and see what kind of performance we get for the second season after haul out. Either way Hydrocoat is definitely the least onerous option if you are a DIYer.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the suggestions - keep them coming.

Just to make sure I was 100% clear, until last season all my long-term docking was in the Delaware River near Philadelphia, well above the freshwater salt line. Hard growth there was never a problem, except for late last summer (after my boat was gone) when Ulladh reported some hard growth due to salt line moving north during prolonged rain-free period. Rock Hall is in brackish water, so definitely more salt than I have experienced before, and I definitely saw hard growth on every surface that was not well protected by copper antifoul.

I'm not sure it's feasible or cost effective for me to buy paint to do my own Practical Sailor-style coupon test. Plus, I need to paint the boat before spring launch, before I could have any results back from such a test. My money might be better spent on renewing my Practical Sailor subscription, but I don't think the reformulated paints have been out long enough for them to report.

I used solvent based paints for all three of my prior DIY bottom jobs, but my new boat is about double the surface area (two gallons of paint instead of one), and for that large a job I think a water based paint would definitely provide easier cleanup, more open time, and less hazardous vapor exposure. So the recommendations for Hydrocoat are well appreciated. I am particularly interested in Hydrocoat SR, but very concerned whether it still has Irgarol. The Technical Bulletin #1847 on Pettit's website says that it does have it, but it's dated Sept 2012, prior to Irgarol being pulled off the market. The SR version seems to only be available in quart sizes, or in unpopular colors (i.e., not blue). This is a sign to me that retailers may be liquidating leftover paint from when Irgarol was still available. I'll try to remember to call their support line and ask.
 
#10 ·
Hey Rick,
I've had great luck with Hydrocoat on Forked River which is brackish water. That said my bottom paint is ready to be redone after three seasons so I have the old formulation.

Pettit Paints always has a booth at the AC boat show and their guys are very knowledgeable. The show is coming up in a couple of weeks March 1st-5th and is a good excuse to wander around and look at boat stuff.

What I like about Hydrocoat is the fact that it's water based so it's easier to use and easier to clean up than Interlux solvent based paints. You'll want to know what the yard used last year when you bought the boat. Hydrocoat will go over most paints with a light sanding, but I think there are one or two paints it's not compatible with. Check with the Pettit guys, they have a chart of what it works with and what prep you need to do.

BTW, I'd be really surprised if you can do your 34 with two gallons. I used two gallons on my 30 (two coats, plus an extra coat along the water line and leading edge of the bow and keel.

Jim
 
#11 ·
The PO of my boat used Hydrocoat (non-SR version) and I've continued with it. The best thing about it is the absolute ease of application and clean up. It applies like hot butter and cleans up as easily as latex house paint. I have noticed it dries to a slightly rougher texture than the solvent based paints I've used in the past. For those who are concerned by this, it can be burnished. I'd also say its open time is actually worse than solvent paints - it dries to touch incredibly fast. As for performance, it's acceptable. I never really bought into irgarol anyway. When I used it in the past, it kept the slime at bay for a month or two after launch until it wore off. As long as I'm DIY-ing my bottom painting, I can't ever imagine going back to a solvent based product for what I feel is only a modest (if any) performance advantage.

I'd also add 2 gallons seems like a lot for a 34 footer. I can get full coverage with 1.5 gallons on 40 feet. It's tempting to apply bottom paint thick but paint buildup sucks and so does sanding the stuff.
 
#12 · (Edited)
No one mentioned 1-year vs. 2-year. I would think most people in Rockhall haul out each winter and would be just as well (better?) served by a 1-year paint.

The smart thing to do is to hang some panels in the water and see. Certainly you could wander around the yard in the spring and beg a few brush fulls of many paints for a good cause. Just walk around with your test panel.

Get a sheet of 0.09" GRP shower surround from Home Depot. Cut panels ~ 18" x 48" and hang them below a 2" PVC pipe with caps on the ends. This will keep it at constant level. Leave it below a dock for a year.

This is my own personal test setup. It's really easy. The pictures are day-1, but it's been in the water 18 months by now. I don't understand why many upper-Chesapeake marinas (or the slip holders) don't do this on their own. Rockhall, for example, might have unique problems. Spread across the group, the cost is less than trivial.

Sail Delmarva: Paint Testing in Estuaries


 
#50 · (Edited)
No one mentioned 1-year vs. 2-year. I would think most people in Rockhall haul out each winter and would be just as well (better?) served by a 1-year paint....
...Sorry I wasn't more clear about this previously: I've always used multi-year paints. My routine is to do two coats on the bottom in odd numbered years, and do a heavy polish/wax above the waterline in even numbered years. I don't like doing both in the same year because I usually like to do the wax very early in the spring, and I don't want to risk getting wax on the bottom before painting. This year I may have to do both, so I need to paint first.

Much as I'm a creature of habit, there's no law that I can't paint every year. It's a bit of a pain to mask off the waterline, and it's just nice not to have to endure the chore every year. But since I'm in a heavier fouling area than I've been in before (for hard growth), a fresh coat every year might be the safest protection since I haul out anyway. I do know that the real cheapo stuff that Herrington Harbor used (AkzoNobel Nautical Proguard Ablative) worked GREAT for one season, and there are only a few thin spots on my boat, so a heavier coat in those places and a light thinned coat over the rest of the boat might be just the recipe. And by using the same stuff, I don't have to worry about compatibility. So I may just stick with it for ~$80/gallon.

By the way, when I say it worked great, I was amazed to see my boat come out of the water with absolutely no slime at all. No hard growth either, except for prop and shaft that were protected by Zinc Barnacle Guard. It's possible that the bottom was sloughed off by the 14 hour trip just prior to haulout, but that's a good sign!...
I had an extensive discussion this week with the Interlux phone tech in Florida. As a result of that discussion, I think I'm going to continue with the same paint that's on the boat now: Nautical ProGuard Ablative made by AkzoNobel. Here's why:

I started by telling the guy that the ProGuard worked great for - first time I've ever pulled out my boat and found NOTHING on the bottom. I'd never seen that before on my other boat. He said, "Yeah, I've heard that about the ProGuard before."

Drawing on my paint formulation background, we got into a discussion of the AkzoNobel's design philosophy for ProGuard, including specific compositional details that are disclosed on the MSDS. Specifically, I zeroed in on the fact that the composition discloses natural rosin as a binder, but no synthetic polymer resin. He told me that AkzoNobel designs ProGuard as an industrial paint to be sold directly to boat yards at a lower price point than their Interlux brands. They keep the Interlux brand off the paint so they don't erode their margins on the Interlux lines.

He said that the rosin is less expensive than synthetic resins, which makes the paint a little less expensive to manufacture, and makes it a softer ablative than their multi-year paints. They refuse to guarantee it for more than one season because it ablates too fast to last two seasons on a powerboat at 20-30 knots. But he said that it's potentially a perfect paint for sailboats that only see a max of 8 kts STW, and would likely last 2 seasons or more unless you're crossing oceans and sailing 24/7.

The key point seems to be that most multi-year ablative paints are engineered to be harder ablatives that can withstand high speeds and trailering of power boats, which make up the bulk of their market. But this design philosophy is the wrong thing for a sailboat, which would likely be better protected by a softer ablative.

It's also very nice that it can be cleaned and thinned down using ordinary Xylene and/or Acetone from Home Depot, instead of custom blended thinners. It's definitely not as good as soap-and-water cleanup of a water based paint, but at least you're not getting gouged by needing to buy quarts #120 thinner or equivalent.

Based on this advice, I'm going to continue to stick with the $80/gallon ProGuard Ablative paint. I'll put a thin coat over the whole boat, and two or more coats in the thin spots, wear points, and along the waterline. I'll continue to judge how it's working after multiple seasons, and switch to a different paint in future years if I need to.
 
#13 · (Edited)
A few updates and clarifications:

I called Pettit today. They confirmed what I suspected: Irgarol/NCN is still not available. Hydrocoat SR is not in production, so the quart sizes and odd colors are what's leftover in the supply chain from two years ago. Ulitma SR-40 has been reformulated from 40% Cu+2% NCN to 47.5% Cu + PTFE additive to enhance ablation. Last October the guys at the boat show told me that Irgarol would be available in November. So when the guy told me today that it would be available in March, I was prepared with my comeback question: "What year?" :p Fortunately he had a sense of humor.

For all you guys who have your yard paint your boats with Hydrocoat, make sure they don't charge you extra for Hydrocoat SR this time, because they are almost certainly using ordinary Hydrocoat.

The Pettit guy did a real hard sell on Hydrocoat Eco, claiming it's the best protection they have in their line. Practical Sailor reviewers would strongly disagree.

Sorry I wasn't more clear about this previously: I've always used multi-year paints. My routine is to do two coats on the bottom in odd numbered years, and do a heavy polish/wax above the waterline in even numbered years. I don't like doing both in the same year because I usually like to do the wax very early in the spring, and I don't want to risk getting wax on the bottom before painting. This year I may have to do both, so I need to paint first.

Much as I'm a creature of habit, there's no law that I can't paint every year. It's a bit of a pain to mask off the waterline, and it's just nice not to have to endure the chore every year. But since I'm in a heavier fouling area than I've been in before (for hard growth), a fresh coat every year might be the safest protection since I haul out anyway. I do know that the real cheapo stuff that Herrington Harbor used (AkzoNobel Nautical Proguard Ablative) worked GREAT for one season, and there are only a few thin spots on my boat, so a heavier coat in those places and a light thinned coat over the rest of the boat might be just the recipe. And by using the same stuff, I don't have to worry about compatibility. So I may just stick with it for ~$80/gallon.

By the way, when I say it worked great, I was amazed to see my boat come out of the water with absolutely no slime at all. No hard growth either, except for prop and shaft that were protected by Zinc Barnacle Guard. It's possible that the bottom was sloughed off by the 14 hour trip just prior to haulout, but that's a good sign!

By the way, I'd appreciate your advice on how to remove hard growth from my shaft and prop. (see pics below) Should I just use a drill with rotating wire brush to knock off the barnacles, strip the old paint, and prep the surface for fresh Barnacle Guard? Is there any need to be more gentle with it? FWIW, my shaft is bronze.
 

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#16 ·
My routine is to do two coats on the bottom in odd numbered years, and do a heavy polish/wax above the waterline in even numbered years. I don't like doing both in the same year because I usually like to do the wax very early in the spring, and I don't want to risk getting wax on the bottom before painting. This year I may have to do both, so I need to paint first.
FWIW, I polish (Finessit II) and wax (Collinite liquid) every year and put a single coat of Hydrocoat on every other year, with touch up as needed. My procedure is to mask the bottom paint with painters tape (~3" of brown paper with a 3/4-1" sticky layer on one edge) and then polish and wax with a random orbit buffer (Flex). Then I mask the freshly waxed boot top and do what is necessary with the bottom paint--at least by the waterline if not the whole bottom (every other year). The thumbnail was taken about 3 years ago (when the boat was 24 yrs old) and you can see the paper painters tape if you look carefully.

BTW, I've been using fresh Hydrocoat (plain version) with good results for many years. I'm in an estuary with a lot of nutrients in fairly salty, brackish water and will get some slime if the boat doesn't move as much as I'd like. The slime comes right off after haul out with pressure washing. I doubt there were more than 2 barnacles on the hull last fall. The second thumbnail shows the bottom after the boatyard power washed it and the prop. I've been coating the prop for several years with Pettit zinc paint with excellent results. A little sanding keeps the zinc from building up and provides a clean surface for the fresh zinc paint. If there is too much build up on the prop I use a carbide scraper, followed by fine sanding.
 

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#14 ·
Wire brush on a drill to clean the prop.

I keep my boat in brackish water just outside of Providence, RI

Here is my bottom painted with Hydrocoat WITHOUT Irgarol at haulout in October of 2014;




After powerwash;
 
#15 ·
Unfortunately I did not take any closeups of the bottom (aside from a few pics of a foot of mud on the wing - previously posted). But here's a pic the day after haulout, before I did any bottom cleaning. (I had my pressure water available at haulout, but decided it wasn't needed. We had a 4 hour round trip to retrieve our car, so we let the hull dry and headed out in the car.) Aside from the scum line (which I later scrubbed off) the bottom was perfectly clean.

I was very impressed with that cheap paint.
 

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#17 ·
We use Ultima 60. Have gotten 3 years each time . When looking at this you can just look at one year or two. Do the comparative costs over 6 years. We stay in the water for at least 2 years st a time and use a diver twice a year ( mainly for the prop And shaft. Two gallons does our boat with two full coats. One red...the second blue. I was happy using Micron Extra before but the Ultima is a step above. Many large cruise companies use it and a formulation of it. This is a job I hate doing. Every three years is fine for me. Every two would be a pain. We never have seen slime buildup and having the diver go down 2 twice a year. In fact the report is always been, the bottom amazingly clean... the shaft and prop ...of course have some hard growth.

One of the reasons we use it is also the slough off rate . It seems to work better for the lower speeds a sailboat travels at. I have no technical knowledge to back this just what I have personally experienced, others who I have convinced and others who use this paint ( or the 40 version) don't go back to anything else.

Personally I don't listen to paint salesman or manufacturer claims as they will scew figures to make their points to sell their paints.
.
What keeps growth offf....using you boat of course. No matter what paint you use, if you boat sits in high temp stagnant water. Growth will occur.
 
#18 ·
When did you buy the paint? Was it the old formula with Irgarol, or the new one with PTFE? Did you notice a performance improvement?

But I definitely see your point about the benefits of getting three years. Every time I paint a room in my house, I tell myself "I'd pay 5x for the paint if it would hide in one coat." So I agree with the general concept of paying as much as it takes for a paint that gives the best lifetime.

Actually the reformulated SR-40 is almost the same composition as SR-60, and actually gets a better long-term rating than SR-60 from Practical Sailor. It's also a little easier to handle for DIY market than the ultra high solids SR-60. I might have gotten a third year out of my SR-40, but sold my prior boat before I had a chance to find out.

FWIW, I'm leaning toward trying Hydrocoat instead of sticking with Proguard. The water cleanup sounds really nice, and I really don't want to sand and mask every single year. I'd much rather put on a second coat while everything is already sanded and masked, than have to do the whole routine every single year.
 
#19 ·
I saw that there is more in the SR40 bringing it closer to the SR60. I e have used the old and the new formula with seeing no appreciable difference as have my friends. Yes the SR60 has more solids but using a power drill mixes it up just fine.

I am waiting to buy 2 gallons when it goes on sale ( all will in the next couple of months) as this is the year we will do a quick pull out in April and Repaint and re- wax.

As far as cleanup, I use a roller and brushes and throw them out. So it's virtually a non issue. I may even let Scotts Marine do mine this year as it's $21/ ft including the hsul and block powerwash and since I am providing the paint it's only a little over $500 plus paint. I hate doing this job and don't like the chemicals and as I get older once every three years is very economical.

I say you have had success with the Ultima....others like me have also. When you have a good thing, why change it. Also remember not all paints are comparable with the old ablative so check for that too. May require extra work.
 
#23 ·
I never said that they are essentially the same. I said that the reformulated version of SR-40 (increased to 47.5% Cu) is almost the same as SR-60 (at 60% Cu). However, I did not realize that SR-60 was recently increased to 65% Cu, because Google had pointed me to an out-of-date color card on Pettit's website. The 2017 color card on the active section of their website shows that they've increased SR-60 to 65% Cu, partly so they can continue their label claim of "50% more copper than Micron Extra at a lower cost". It's amazing that they can pack that much solids without needing a putty knife to apply it. :p
 
#25 ·
When Irgarol became unavailable, I switched over to West Marine CPP with extreme dubiousness. I painted the boat last April and it's been in the water ever since.

I am stunned by its excellent performance. The only slime I ever saw, was a bit near the top of the rudder. Went sailing, came home and it's gone. Zero hard growth. I paid over $300 for the last gallon of Interlux Micron Extra that I put on the Pearson. I paid less than $130 for the WM CPP paint, plus I had a coupon. I didn't see anything in your original post that said that *you* prefer a water-based paint, only that the marinas were pushing it on you.

I realize that I'm only going on one year of use, but maybe you'll find this to be helpful. I can provide more data as we move into the second season.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I think that all of the paints that we are discussing will perform great in the first year. The ones that are sold as one-year paints (like the cheap Proguard that my boat had last season) are especially likely to perform well because they can ablate fast, making up for any deficiencies in their formulation. Multi-year paints are trickier because they need to carefully meter the chemicals over a longer period. They may sacrifice something in the first year to last through subsequent year(s).

I haven't researched much of anything here. I know exactly when Irgarol was discontinued because I was tipped off by my BASF pigments and additives salesman in 2015 just before I was ready to buy paint. He knew I was a sailor. (I've spent my whole career formulating paints and inks, so I know people and they know me.) I then went to the store and looked over all the cans and saw two different formulas on the cans for SR-40. The only other research has just been looking up data sheets for my own upcoming purchase.
..I didn't see anything in your original post that said that *you* prefer a water-based paint, only that the marinas were pushing it on you...
My preferences have been shifting as I've reflected on the things I'm seeing here.

My wife reminded me that every time I painted with the solvent paint, I came home feeling sick. In some cases, it was bad enough that I would wait a few days to do my second coat because I just felt lousy. So I think a water based paint would be a healthier experience, especially on a job that's about 2x the surface area of what I used to have to do.
 
#26 ·
I figured when you researched the year that I must have switched over to correct me it had the information of the change of CuO2 saturation to make up for not having the Ingerol. That same switch led to the increasing the Ultima 40 to 46.5%

I am sure that's the main reason they increased the contraction was to achieve similar results to their previous claims and to keep their users happy. The 50% more than Micron is a byproduct

Lol....it is a thick paint so it requires good stirring as well as quick efficient application but it protects oh so well.

I figure Ultra 40 is $209 with 46.5% CuO2
Ultra 60 is $229 with 65% CuO2

For $20 more a substantial improvement.

The best price I've seen on Extra is $203. As I said I liked that paint for Chessie use before we found Ultima. It's an effective paint too.
 
#27 ·
We used Hydrocoat on our boat moored in Portland Harbor. I bought it originally because, although it is ablative, it is sold as a "hard" ablative, suitable for trailered boats. Easy on, easy clean-up, pretty blue. What's not to like? Then we got a mooring. After 3 months soaking in the Atlantic, I only had a bit of scum that power-washed off in less than one beer. I'm sold.
 
#31 ·
I use Hydrocoat, for the last two years - and many years before.
I am from Philadelphia area, but I left my boat at Worton Creek for five weeks in July last year 2016.
The prop shaft and prop had barnacles from those five weeks, but the hull was clear.

Of course we don't get any hard growth in the Delaware River, so it was just those five weeks for the hard growth test.

When I used to keep my boat at Worton Ck for the entire season, we had to brush to bottom a couple times per season, but again I used Hydrocoat.
 
#32 ·
I use Hydrocoat, for the last two years - and many years before.
I am from Philadelphia area, but I left my boat at Worton Creek for five weeks in July last year 2016.
The prop shaft and prop had barnacles from those five weeks, but the hull was clear.

Of course we don't get any hard growth in the Delaware River, so it was just those five weeks for the hard growth test.

When I used to keep my boat at Worton Ck for the entire season, we had to brush to bottom a couple times per season, but again I used Hydrocoat.
Growing barnacles within 5 weeks is not exactly a rousing endorsement for any paint. And that in Worton Creek where the water is quite brackish. One river over, in the Sassafras, the water is fresh enough that I have seen deer drinking from it.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Sandpaper, screens and scrapers are NOT necessary with Hydrocoat. All you need are some water and a couple of these;


If you REALLY want to go crazy Petit sells Bio-Blue to prep the surface, but that is 90% Barkeeper's Friend (Oxalic Acid)
 
#37 ·
I have successfully kept all critters off my prop using WM Transducer Paint, which comes in a spray can. I removed all the antifouling paint from the prop that had been there for years, cleaned the prop down to highly polished bronze, wiped it clean with denatured alcohol, then sprayed it with the transducer paint, three coats. The paint job looks like it was done yesterday afternoon, and no critters after 5 years. And that includes a trip down the ICW and spending an entire winter in the Florida Keys. If you don't grow stuff in the Keys, you won't grow stuff anywhere you go. Very fertile water down there.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 
#38 ·
Initially when we paint our bottom, we DO PAINT our prop and shaft with Prop Speed. I don't find it to be a "foolish practice " and no it doesn't come off in a motor to the C&D Canal.

I guess you were assuming it was an ablative paint the same as went on the fiberglass/ barrier coat.

I think I would be careful making authoritative statements like that.

Many people have success with homemade remedies or practices which may be specific to their own aqua- climate on the creek where they keep their boat. Gary has this going for him. Some friends of mine use petroleum jelly , and other concoctions , which work for them. Even on a long creek/ river on the Chesapeake there can be huge swings on salinity , temperature within a mile.

The Chester is a good example. The nettles/ salinity is far different at the Corsica/ Queenstown than it is 2 miles up the east fork of Langford Creek past Cacaway . This could possibly affect the choice of bottom paint or even the barnacle growth. So could water exchange.

Where I kept my boat before at MYC even where you have your slip can affect growth. The slips closer to the shore, where there was less water exchange, the boats always seemed to fowl more quickly. When choosing a slip that factor rarely is talked about but can have a real importance.

I have found that water exchange contributes greatly as to growth .

Back to the Prop Speed. Generally we have found it works effectively for 3-5 months . Since our boat stays in the water 2-3 years at a time we employ a diver at least twice a year to do a cleaning by of the Prop and shaft. I won't do it myself as I am someone wary of cutting or scratching myself in the water which has a lot of unknown microorganism which may cause harm.

So putting a $35 spray ( 1/2 can ) is not foolish venture at all.
 
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#39 ·
Initially when we paint our bottom, we DO PAINT our prop and shaft with Prop Speed. I don't find it to be a "foolish practice " and no it doesn't come off in a motor to the C&D Canal.

I guess you were assuming it was an ablative paint the same as went on the fiberglass/ barrier coat.

I think I would be careful making authoritative statements like that.

Many people have success with homemade remedies or practices which may be specific to their own aqua- climate on the creek where they keep their boat. Gary has this going for him. Some friends of mine use petroleum jelly , and other concoctions , which work for them. Even on a long creek/ river on the Chesapeake there can be huge swings on salinity , temperature within a mile.

The Chester is a good example. The nettles/ salinity is far different at the Corsica/ Queenstown than it is 2 miles up the east fork of Langford Creek past Cacaway . This could possibly affect the choice of bottom paint or even the barnacle growth. So could water exchange.

Where I kept my boat before at MYC even where you have your slip can affect growth. The slips closer to the shore, where there was less water exchange, the boats always seemed to fowl more quickly. When choosing a slip that factor rarely is talked about but can have a real importance.

I have found that water exchange contributes greatly as to growth .

Back to the Prop Speed. Generally we have found it works effectively for 3-5 months . Since our boat stays in the water 2-3 years at a time we employ a diver at least twice a year to do a cleaning by of the Prop and shaft. I won't do it myself as I am someone wary of cutting or scratching myself in the water which has a lot of unknown microorganism which may cause harm.

So putting a $35 spray ( 1/2 can ) is not foolish venture at all.
I paint (spray) my prop, though not the shaft, with Pettit Barnacle Barrier. I also stay in the water 2 years and have to scrape the prop once or twice in the second year (I do it myself and did not experience ill effects).
 
#40 ·
As mentioned, conditions have a big impact on the how you might perceive the performance of a product. Sometimes the conditions result in an "outbreak" sort of thing. Late one season when had our boat in Deltaville, we had an outbreak of some sort of worm like organism. In the space of about 2 weeks they encased the prop the point it was about as effective as a basketball for propulsion. Just about every boat in the marina was affected. Never had the problem before or after. Just that season.
 
#43 ·
I meant transducer paint. Sloppy typing.

https://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=transducer+paint

Westmarine branded transducer paint not shown in a spray can. Pettit only in the spray can. I have (and use) the MDR brush-on stuff on my transducers. Gary, please post a link since I'd like to look into it for my prop.

That's fine if you have a different kind of prop paint. No problem with that. I know that many are also based on zinc. More types is better, since different waters may need different ingredients.

Thanks for the info. I'm happy to hear all suggestions. Hostility not needed.
 
#44 ·
No hostility meant.

Just answering your quip "Dave, go back and read the thread more carefully." That could b e considered hostile Rick.

Let's move on
My point was Prop Speed is way different than all the other prop paints
They base their effectiveness on preventing growth on the same principal as regular bottom paint which is the use of a biocide, while Prop Speed is taking the growth issue from a different angle completely and it's basis is to make the prop too slippery to attach to.

The beauty of the Prop Speed is it doesn't wear off as quickly as the other paints thus it is more effective for a longer period of time. While it seems expensive , it means maybe one- less diver trips therefore more than paying for itself.

Also my diver has told me that even when the Prop Speed finally starts to become less effective, the growth comes off the Prop/ shaft with a mere wipe of a green pad vs scraping.

I a, not connected withOrop Speed in any way
 
#47 ·
Take Five, I used the Petit brand - I purchased it at WM. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/pettit-paints--transducer-paint--5436902?recordNum=1

What really amazed me was during my stay in the Florida Keys the bottom of the boat grew a thick, long coat of angle hair algae that extended from the waterline down to about 2 feet. It measured about 12 inches long and really put a drag on the hull while sailing. I contracted a local diver who scraped my hull clean for $2 a foot using plastic scrapers and rubber squeegees. When he got to the prop, he said it looked like I had just painted it the day before he arrived. It was spotless. After several months in the keys, I snorkeled beneath the boat and that prop was still spotless. From that time on, I was hooked on the transducer paint.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 
#48 ·
FWIW, I've used Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing compound on my prop the last two seasons and have had zero growth issues. It stays on pretty well through a season and seems to do a great job warding off growth hard or soft.

I've been told it was the same thing as Petit Barnacle Barrier but 1/3 the price. I can't attest to it being the same thing, only that I've had the same results as marina neighbors that used the Petit product.
 
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