Dismasted/1964 Challenger - Page 5 - SailNet Community
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post #41 of 44 Old 11-06-2019
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Re: Dismasted/1964 Challenger

Not having a Bimini, awning or dodger is fine if you've got cast iron skin. After two Mohs surgeries to remove squamous cell skin cancers, years in the sun sailing and officiating Futbol I'm no longer a fan of open air cockpits. Enjoy it while you can, use sun block, clothing and hats and you might get lucky.

I found an umbrella setup on eBay for boating. It was an umbrella with a clamp on shaft to affix to the stern pulpit or lifeline stanchion. Looked like a great solution except the umbrella self destructed after only a few uses and didn't have enough range of coverage.

Like weather cloths for cruising. Make it way more comfortable in the cockpit shielded from the wind and give you a modicum of privacy for bathing, etc at anchor. Take them off when I'm not going anywhere. They do restrict visibility to windward and isolate you a bit from that one ness of wind and waves.

Now back to the original intent of the thread. What did you have to do to the mast to get it ready?? Did they ship it with all hardware attached, a step, etc. and all you had to do is add wire and raise it??? Forte seems to be the most economical of source for a carbon stick but wondering how much you did to keep the costs down??
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post #42 of 44 Old 11-06-2019
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Re: Dismasted/1964 Challenger

I donít know about The far nicer Comment.

Those of us with biminis to keep the sun off us on 95 degree plus days may differ.
Or sailing for 11 hours in drenching rain.
These protections donít necessarily compromise sight if well designed.

I like the flexibility of protection and openness. A jury rigged method of protection....doesnít make long term sense . You canít control the elements obviously, but in order to have a nicer time sailing making adjustment to them makes sense.

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post #43 of 44 Old 11-06-2019
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Re: Dismasted/1964 Challenger

To each his own.
Sailing, like motorcycling, biking, hiking, kayaking, mountain climbing, and so much more, is an outdoor sport. You don't drag a portable house around for those other activities, why should you for sailing? Like any outdoor activity you dress properly. If you are making long passages in miserable conditions of course you want protection; how many sailors on this forum are doing that? We are going sailing very shortly and I anticipate a good sail with a beautiful view of the mountains and eagles. And like most cool weather sailing days, the beautiful boats with the cozy enclosures will be tied to the dock.
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post #44 of 44 Old 11-23-2019 Thread Starter
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Re: Dismasted/1964 Challenger

Per- "Now back to the original intent of the thread. What did you have to do to the mast to get it ready?? Did they ship it with all hardware attached, a step, etc. and all you had to do is add wire and raise it??? Forte seems to be the most economical of source for a carbon stick but wondering how much you did to keep the costs down??"

Stick came with backing plates that I provided, installed (not being cheap, it is that the T-Terminals are very sensitive to being part of a "system", and don't transpose between brands, well so I sent them the Forte, for pre-fitting), a head (well made) and since Forte has a relationship with Dwyer, a boom and spreaders at near 50% discount(!- note that they may share if you buy from Forte, their deep discount w/Harken, too- I got a couple of flip-flop blocks). The goose-neck fitting, spreader fittings, sheave boxes, and exit plates are also set in/on the mast and there is a small lug set near the top, on the inside, to hold up a wire loom (they provide the sock- know that it is an insidiously difficult thing to fill with the wires and it became a challenge not-unlike some sort of "Chinese finger" toy lawn game). No halyard winch comes with (or is needed, IMO). Sheave for main halyard is in head, and I had yet another halyard sheave box added on top of the job halyard (literally and figuratively, as it lives above the fore-stay) which I call the "chute" halyard (most people would use it as a spinnaker line, I plan on using it for a real parachute). Base plate w/"puck" is also included. I fabricated new chain plates from 1/4 inch plate hydro-cut and added a backer plate on the other side of the bulkhead while at it since they were cutting the pattern anyway might as well cut a version that just doesn't go thru the deck and thru-bolt it while there.

What is left, sounds easy but it took me approx 5 long hot weekends to mount cleats (I mounted 5), blocks (optional, I mounted 2 flip-flop versions- 1 I use for Cunningham but will be rove for "jib" halyard as needed, the other controls the chute halyard line), fill wire sock (optional if you don't mind wire foul/slap) rove (3) halyards (I used an electrician's snake to fish the halyards and wire loom thru), mount the base (thru-bolted), add spreaders and standing rigging (there is a whole chapter, just in getting the standing rigging fabricated), and step. I ended up going to the local boat yard and paying them for an hour of crane time to set.

Sounds easy, huh? While at it, pre-stepping, I added an anchor light under the port spreader, re-installed the flag halyard block under stbd spreader, a tri-color up top and a big Windex with a light just for that. Key was scribing the heel of the mast to the slope of the deck and I installed a CF tube under the deck, bolted to the bulkhead, directly under the mast to reinforce the old FRP athwartships beam that was a bit tired; the tube doubles as a conduit for the wiring (still to be connected to terminal blocks mounted on bulkhead inside v-berth).

There are probably other operations involved but most are covered, here. Note that I also treated the standing rigging, cryogenically (I can hear the howling, now) in an attempt to minimize stretch and add anti-corrosion properties to the 304 (stronger,but less resistant to corrosion). Now I am running at less than half the rig tension of a reg AL mast and the stick stays in column and, aside from the initial settling (this stick isn't as light as you would think- it came down approx 1/4 inch, putting my CF horiz interior support to the test). I will adjust the lowers before next outing as they seem a bit loose but the fore/back stay is around 320 lbs and the cap shrouds near 200 (which is really amazing). I admit I had to cut the back-stay to length, after swaging (installed swageless fitting), due to my measuring. I have a bit of rake at the top (couple inches) but not more weather helm than before new stick, and probably less. The Cunningham takes out some of the WH (see pic from foredeck and squint to see the wake behind the boat) and it may be the pair of new tri-radial sails but she goes flat and fast (avgd high 4's in 8 to 10 kn in that session).

Sails nice in heavy and light- left late and only had a couple of hours of light, and as that and the wind went away she did well (see other pic coming into LA).

Gotta get back to work to pay for this stuff.

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