The Challengers and probably the reg 24's have/had plumb masts, per original design. I am in the throes of installing a new carbon fiber mast and have installed a new base plate and puck of very similar design and size to the original, for receiving the butt of the new stick. After setting the replacement plate I took a reading with a spirit level and athwartship it is level BUT fore and aft, the new base plate, as did the original, evidently, takes a dive down to the bow to the tune of approx 3/8 inch in just the length of the plate. I don't have the old mast piece anymore so cannot gauge if the original mast was square cut at the bottom as I didn't think to check before it went to the recycler. I can't trust the boot line for level, necessarily. I know about setting up a plumb bob and using halyards for checking equi-distance, etc...here is what I am trying to preclude- after my marina mates have helped walk this thin into place I don't wan't, if I can help it, to take away their light beers and make them un-step, grind the end and then reset the thing, if I can help it.
It seems to me that if I set the butt, as is, currently square cut, and if I tension the stays/shrouds equally
using lengths to make the right triangles that I used to figure the new standing rigging, the the mast rake will be a bunch forward, fore and aft as the boat currently sits in the water.... It also seems to me that, most likely, the original aluminum mast was square cut and even if the new mast seems to rake forward, that while underway it may be in column as the bow comes up a bit while on the wind (unless of course I am running down wind and then the mast will be even further raked forward(!).
I am even tempted to grind a "rocker" (as in rocking chair) shape to the bottom and be done with it.
As of now the mast is wired and with halyards, and sundry sheaves, lights etc...near ready to install save for the lack of standing rigging I await from a local shop.