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post #1 of 6 Old 09-10-2015 Thread Starter
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it's over? Winterizing

Hi all. It's only been two weeks since I got her but I'm already thinking of winterizing her. She is a 1981 CS 27 being docked in Toronto, Ontario. I'll take any tips on where to start and what have someone else do. For example... How do I lower the mast? Do all halyards/sheets have to be remove before or after or leave on? Head? Engine? Cover? Scrape the hull now or in spring or both? So many, many, many questions. Online there is multiple opinions about everything to do about it. Steer my boat in right direction. I want to take care of her.
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-10-2015
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Re: it's over? Winterizing

Patrick, congrats on the new boat. I've crawled around on a CS 27. Great boats, good reputations. You have lots of questions. As a fellow Great Lakes sailor (who has already put our baby to bed for the winter), here's my thoughts:

Mast removal: I don't know your boat, but you'll likely need a mast crane to remove the stick safely. The yard you are storing the boat at will most likely have such a thing. Most yards provide this service, for a fee of course. I leave my halyards in place, swapped neatly around the mast. Sheets are removed. Before you go into the mast dock, slacken the turnbuckles on your standing rigging (slacken, don't remove!). This will make the process go faster.

Removing your stick will be quite easy. It's not that big. However, you may not need to remove it at all for winter storage. Some yards demand removal, most don't. Some owners prefer removal, others don't. My approach is to remove my mast every few years for maintenance. I've left it up over the winter many times. Certainly makes for easier Spring launch. Some say leaving mast up is harder on the boat.

Head: Empty holding tank, remove all water from system, open all thru-hulls, pump plumber antifreeze trough the system, including into the holding tank.

Galley/sinks: Same process; remove all water including emptying fresh water tank. Open any thru-hulls related to system. Pump plumbers antifreeze through entire system, including all pumps, hoses, taps, and into the water tank. When the outflow at the taps run red then you're good.

Engine: Winterizing depends on the type of engine you have. For my diesel engine with heat-exchanger I change the oil at the end of the season. Some people do it at the beginning (or both). Once the boat is out of the water I run engine antifreeze (70:30) through the raw water cooling system by attaching a hose upstream of the raw water impeller pump. Run the engine until you get antifreeze running out the exhaust. I collect and test the outflow to ensure sufficient antifreeze concentration (I aim for 70:30, but 60:40 is usually OK). Open all related thru-hulls and drain the raw water strainer.

Cover: Yes, I think it's a good idea. It's not hard to build a good cover using flexible conduit and a tarp. My current boat uses a custom canvas cover. Many people shrink-wrap. Of course some people only cover the cockpit, and other people do nothing. To me, it's about snow load and the risk of water freezing/thawing on the deck.

Clean the hull: Yes, as soon as it comes out of the water. Most yards will have a pressure water cleaner.

Why go fast, when you can go slow.
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-11-2015 Thread Starter
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Thank you Mike! This will get me started .

I'm at the IYC Toronto, so the mast can stay up but might choose to put it down. Most of the lines and sheets are going to be replaced in the spring anyhow, this will help to measure them easier.
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-15-2015
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Re: it's over? Winterizing

Hi Patrick
I suggest that you check the thread on winterizing batteries:
sailnet.com/forums/electric-hybrid/195457-battery-assistance.html

I lost a motorcycle battery one winter even tho' I removed it to a protected (but unheated) garage because I failed to charge it before removing it.
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Re: it's over? Winterizing

Good point about batteries WLD. Missed that one. If you can remove your battery, bring it inside and charge it every couple of months, that is the best option. This might be feasible for your 27-footer, depending on what your battery arrangement is.

My approach is either to leave my batteries on the shore charger (quality 3-stage charger) through the winter OR fully charge them and disconnect them before leaving for the winter. If you can get on board and charge them periodically throughout the winter you could consider not disconnecting them, but it's safer to pull the positive leads off.

If you leave them disconnected all winter try and get on board as soon as you can in the spring and get them charged. All batteries self-discharge over time.

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post #6 of 6 Old 09-15-2015
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Re: it's over? Winterizing

Also, don't forget to winterize your air conditioner, if you have it, your shower sump, your ice box drain, and your bilge pump.
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