Think of it like a bulge pump, in one case it has to push the discharge up 5’ (greater “head” hard to do, low output) but in another case it only pushes up 2’ (less “head”, easier, greater output). The pump is turning the same revs in both cases.
Thanks a lot, it does make sense.
I do seem to get quite a lot of water right from the start, when the engine is cold.
After some minutes it starts to cycle between low green (almost in the white section) and the read section. The cycles are within 20-30 seconds and it cools down rapidly when it reaches the mid section red.
The thermostat is brand new, and I have even tested it - it opens and closes fine, and is a 60 degrees celscius.
What I do seem to hear is that when it starts the descent from the red section (hot) it sounds like the exhaust is dry for a few seconds, before it returns to spitting out water again.
So I guess the manifold is running dry when the thermostat is closed, and then refills when it opens, that's why I thought the flow was the other way around.
But now I suspect that it might be the extra hole in bottom of the thermostathouse/manifold that is clogged?
I guess that would prevent the water from flowing into the manifold (because air cant get out there) - and then when the theromstat opens, it can flow in from the backend, but that will mean that there will be this short pause, where the exhaust is dry...?
But I guess this still doesn't explain how it would drain the manifold during the cold periods where the thermostat is closed...
I recently had to motor 25 nm, and it went fine, and the engine compartment didn't seem particularly warm afterwards, but this can't be good for anything.
The engine starts very willingly, does not smoke, and the oil is the right color. (Hardly uses any oil).