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post #11 of 21 Old 08-18-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

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Originally Posted by roppermann View Post
I'm wary of depriving the engine of O2 to stop it as I've heard that can sometimes lead to internal damage.
Many diesel engine emergency shutdowns are O2 stoppers, but they are usually steel valves. In your case, I wouldn't be too concerned with a runaway, more just a simple way to shut her off if you need/want to.
I'd be very careful to not put too much pressure on the arm the cable attaches to. It may have a seal that would be destroyed by excessive movement. Spraying as mentioned (I'm also a big fan of PB Blaster) and working the lever very carefully and in very small increments is your best way to proceed.
Try to do the job with your hand if you can, so you can feel any resistance. A wrench or hammer may create new problems. If you must use a hammer or similar, tap gently, do not beat.
Good luck.

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post #12 of 21 Old 08-18-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

If you are resorting to a mallet, small taps forth and back with emphasis on the pull cable direction.
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post #13 of 21 Old 08-18-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

Yes PbBlaster to get it free and once its free consider Blaster Garage Door and Cable Lubricant or their Chain and Cable Lubricant to keep it that way.

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post #14 of 21 Old 08-19-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

I’ve had very little luck freeing up frozen cables over the years, if that’s the problem. In some cases, I’ve freed them, only to have them break later, because the cable corroded inside. They’re not terribly expensive, so would be inclined to replace it.

If you must, you can try one of those $10 clamp-on cable lube devices that allow you to use the pressure of the aerosol can to get in the cable.


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post #15 of 21 Old 08-19-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

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I’ve had very little luck freeing up frozen cables over the years, if that’s the problem. In some cases, I’ve freed them, only to have them break later, because the cable corroded inside. They’re not terribly expensive, so would be inclined to replace it.

If you must, you can try one of those $10 clamp-on cable lube devices that allow you to use the pressure of the aerosol can to get in the cable.
From post #5 above; " I'm pretty sure it's the lever as the cable moves pretty freely in both directions. I can't move the lever by hand.".

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post #16 of 21 Old 08-19-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

Although the spring/lever assembly appears to be in good shape who knows what murk lies within the rather delicate sliding bits of of internal mystery. If the lever is seized in the shaft part, fairly rugged. This may need some referral to the manual and disassembly .Design varies and bigger hammers may give the usual results.
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post #17 of 21 Old 08-19-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

That lever is the fuel shut off. the lever has an arm on the inside of the engine that moves the governor slide shaft . this shuts off the fuel by moving the governor internals to the no fuel flow position the same as it would do if the engine is overspending. you can remove the 4 bolts and take the lever assembly out to free up the shaft hopefully the governor slide shaft is free because that is a bigger job to fix. here is the parts manual if you need it https://www.westerbeke.com/parts%20m...parts_list.pdf

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post #18 of 21 Old 08-19-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

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Originally Posted by capta View Post
From post #5 above; " I'm pretty sure it's the lever as the cable moves pretty freely in both directions. I can't move the lever by hand.".
Glanced by it. Thanks.


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post #19 of 21 Old 08-19-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

I think I found it in the parts book; https://www.westerbeke.com/parts%20m...parts_list.pdf. It is on pages 276/8 (95/97 of the pdf) and seems only to be a lever/cam and not directly connected to any fragile bits. It doesn't even seem to have any sort of seal, so with enough time and penetrant, you should be able to work it loose.
I would guess the aluminum plate has corroded to the steel shaft. You just don't want to crack/break the aluminum plate. Actually, you may even be able to remove it and apply some heat, if the penetrant doesn't get you there. Its pretty simple to make a new gasket.

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“Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.” ― Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

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Last edited by capta; 08-19-2018 at 12:37 PM.
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post #20 of 21 Old 08-22-2018
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Re: Fuel Kill Lever

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Originally Posted by roppermann View Post
Here's the pics.
I would replace the entire cable. I have a Westerbeke 30B3 and had the same problem. I yanked the old cable and purchased a SS choke cable out of amazon for less then $20 - search for stainless steel choke cable. Its fairly easy to run it thru to the governor.
BTW, if you don't have a fuel shut off valve think of installing one.
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