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post #11 of 15 Old 11-07-2019
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Re: Blown head gasket?

I think history of heavy oil consumption before this water incident is the big tell
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post #12 of 15 Old 11-08-2019 Thread Starter
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I spoke with Volvo Penta Guru Brian Mac Donald.
He suggested vaccum valve was clogged and water siphoned back into engine when I shut it down the night before. The loud bang I heard in the morning was hydro locked pistons. He said it will take many oil changes to stop seeing milk.. that's today's plan!
Thank you all for all your extremely helpful advice troubleshooting this. This is such an amazing network- I'm very grateful to be a part of.
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post #13 of 15 Old 11-08-2019
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Re: Blown head gasket?

That's excellent news. Have you unclogged the vacuum valve? I wonder if you can use a cheap oil for these changes and finish off with the high grade Rotella?

pay attention... someone's life depends on it
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post #14 of 15 Old 11-09-2019
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Re: Blown head gasket?

Originally Posted by SanderO View Post
....I wonder if you can use a cheap oil for these changes and finish off with the high grade Rotella?
That is absolutely what I'd do. The pricier oils have additives and properties you don't need in a single flush.

p.s. Brian is an excellent resource, but he's not always right. He's more right than wrong, but I've had both experiences. I find it hard to believe he could diagnose fully over the phone.

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post #15 of 15 Old 11-09-2019
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Re: Blown head gasket?

Scottgrewe offers good advice. The first check should be for a leaking raw water pump that has blown its inner seal and now the raw water is partially flooding into the bottom of the engine. Smply remove the pump, fill it and the connection tubes with water and pressurize to look for water leaking past the inner shaft seal. To better visualize get a copy of the appropriate pages of your maintenance and repair manual. If you DIY repair the pump, be sure to fit-up all the seals exactly to specs. and listed 'clearances' - be accurate.

2. Either get a mechanic with ... or you purchase ... a handpump pressure tester of the non-raw water side of the cooling system ... this will connect to the radiator cap. Pump up to 13 psig ... search for the leak: remove the injectors and with a borescope inspect the combustion chambers for water. Then go into the cast block (water pump 'hole', etc. and look for leakage from a crack in the casting, etc.

Check the raw water pump first - its a very common cause of milky looking oil.

FWIW .... there isnt much in the way of reliable mechanical help along the ICW between Coinjock and Morehead City (Jarrett Yard a few miles north of Morehead).

Good luck to ya.
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