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post #21 of 29 Old 12-15-2007
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Any decent automotive diesel oil will do fine, say in 10/40 grade.
I have used it for 15 years and it does fine.
Beware synthetic oils... they are expensive and are a step change to an older motor.
As a rule, and as for motorcycles, do not use them when running in. ...they are just too good at lubing the surfaces.
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post #22 of 29 Old 01-13-2014
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Re: diesel engine oils

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Originally Posted by pegasus1457 View Post
As a newbie diesel owner, the first thing I did was to buy a couple of books from Amazon on diesel marine engines. The advice in these books is to stick with whatever oil was used in the engine by the PO. I can't remember the logic, but I think it has to do with the solvents in the different oils being incompatible.
IMO that's terrible advice. The PO may have been cheap, clueless or both! Consult the manual and/or your local motor dealer. You can change types of oils as long as you change the oil and filter. Sure beats continuing to use the wrong oil!

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post #23 of 29 Old 01-13-2014
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Re: Engine Oil for Marine Diesel

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Any decent automotive diesel oil will do fine, say in 10/40 grade.
I have used it for 15 years and it does fine.
As this article points out, that may not be true for older motors.
Oil for yacht engines
And yes...I realize this is an old thread. If you have a old motor, nothings changed.

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post #24 of 29 Old 01-14-2014
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Re: Engine Oil for Marine Diesel

The thing to watch is the older engines had flat tappet camshafts, and the new gas-engine oils no longer have the anti-scuff zinc additive, so the cam lobes will fail, or at least wear much more quickly unless a ZDDP additive is added. Newer engines have roller cams, so it isn't an issue.

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post #25 of 29 Old 01-14-2014
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Re: diesel engine oils

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Originally Posted by pegasus1457 View Post
As a newbie diesel owner, the first thing I did was to buy a couple of books from Amazon on diesel marine engines. The advice in these books is to stick with whatever oil was used in the engine by the PO. I can't remember the logic, but I think it has to do with the solvents in the different oils being incompatible.
Any chance on getting a refund on those books?
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post #26 of 29 Old 01-16-2014
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Re: Engine Oil for Marine Diesel

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The thing to watch is the older engines had flat tappet camshafts, and the new gas-engine oils no longer have the anti-scuff zinc additive, so the cam lobes will fail, or at least wear much more quickly unless a ZDDP additive is added. Newer engines have roller cams, so it isn't an issue.
Contacted my Yanmar dealer and they said Delo 15/40 (Chevron) was the oil to use for my old Yanmar. That's good, as it's what the PO and I have been using. On the other hand, it occurs to me that the dealer repairs and sells engines!
You could make the argument that the little work horse has survived for over 30 years on what it has been given. However those are relatively low auxiliary boat hours, half of which were probably using the correct CO rated oil.
So, would Delo contain ZDDP (don't see it listed as an ingredient) or is it something I can get?
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post #27 of 29 Old 01-16-2014
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Re: Engine Oil for Marine Diesel

I've always used Shell Rotella T 15w/40. It contains 1200ppm of ZDDP, more than enough. If you are worried about wear, I suggest using this.

I don't know about Delo. Edit : it seems that Delo 400 also has 1200 ppm ZDDP.

My understanding is that you don't want to go higher than 1200ppm as corrosion can be an issue, so DON'T add a ZDDP supplement to these oils.
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post #28 of 29 Old 01-17-2014
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Re: Engine Oil for Marine Diesel

delo400 was reformulated to contain LESS zddp and certain addittives however it still is the golden standard for many many many diesel on and off the water

in fact I used it on my old racing 1980s xr600 offroad honda enduro bike...and it was the best value money could buy

do not ever go overboard on additoves...many engine can take certain amounts of stuff like STP zddp but you get to a point where you can damage and make stuff slip etc...

shell ROTELLA is another golden standard, down here its called RIMULA

same stuff dino diesel oil 15/40

there is a saying that its not just the quality if the oil but how often you change it...basically on low output diesels that run all day long any similar grade weight oil will work...its how often you change and keep topped up that is the standard to go by...

run low once while motorsailing at an angle for example and more damage can be done than you ever will by using "cheaper" or non recomended oils...
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post #29 of 29 Old 08-05-2014
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Re: Engine Oil for Marine Diesel

I couldn't pass this thread up and am a sure I'll overlap advice but here it goes:
Our diesels cruise at a steady rpm, temp, etc. so focus on single grade oils with lots of zinc because we don't have catalytic converters or EGR's to foul on our boats so we can use good stuff. Zinc and phospherous work together, in keeping your lifters rotating randomly so what is in this picture does not happen to you:
Sliding surface example of low additive package (You land rover drivers, get on this):
http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/photos/F...s/image004.jpg
http://www.swri.org/4org/ae/images/compwear250x216.jpg
Single grade, vs multi-grade:
http://www.tejascoach.com/Images/SMpistonliner.jpg
You also have an oil filter with a pressurized pump, so only use detergent oil, non detergent oils are for engines with accessible sumps like a farm stationary engine or oil field motor. Non detergent allows dirt to fall away from the gears, air compressors and lawn mowers etc. Briggs even recommends removing the side cover to deal with the dirt left over by non-detergent, this means that the dirt didn't circulate through the engine though... two schools.
When you think you've found your oil, there is probably a "used oil analysis" (UOA) someplace online for it. Diesel engines can use several API ratings, CH and younger are formulations to deal with the newer fuels of today:
http://www.lubetrak.com/newsletter/i...diesel_api.gif

Stay away from ILSAC everything, gas engines such as Atomics will enjoy SL oils or older, not SN or SM. C is compression ignition, S is spark ignition and progress alphabetically as the oils change for CAFE and National Association of Manufacturers decisions. There are only a few companies with lots of zinc and/or moly, phosphorous, calcium, etc, in no particular order;
Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Cen-Pen-Co, Swepco (had trouble with their 306 not pumping hydraulic lifters when 55degF though, their 502 is apparently the solution to their not great oil). I suggest staying away from synthetics as they were only designed for racing, emissions/CAFE standards.
Good oils of course are Delo 400 single and Multigrade, Delo 100. Diesel oils today on the shelf are typically MB 228.31 or MB 229.51 which are for Diesel Particulate Filters and low on everything we need. Delo 400 LE is one of the sneaky neighbor dogs. They're suppose to be backwards compatible but that only helps the store owner. You have to look hard and I recommend purchasing online;
I order Schaeffer's Moly-Bond SAE 20 in 5 gallon buckets for the Volvo-Penta MD2 and the same company supplies me 5-gallon buckets of Moly-Bond 15w-40 for my OM602A in a 190D Turbo. This is the most impressive oil to me and the most robust. If you don't start the engine but a few times a month, moly is your friend and Schaeffers uses about 200ppm of it. I'm comfortable saying that I've found the best oils for my applications, and not affraid to say that anything you're buying at Walmart/Autoparts chains are likely a compromise to your engine design.
Don't mix different makers of oils without manufactures approval, but DO find a proper fill and stick with it. Buying a different oil every time it goes on sale can gum up and create sludge in your engine with different additive and detergent packages.
Temperature, you'll notice that oils are rated in different temperature stages:
like 40degC and 100degC, without a temp gauge I can only suggest you let things warm up as the heat is required in the oil to work and clean. A multi-grade needs heat to expand the elastomer.

We're inundated with consumer type choices, consumers own things until they break, so we can't shop where they do. Unfortunately, you'll likely have to order online for everything mechanical in your future, your time and project is too valuable to walk into and out of a retail location unsatisfied.

Last edited by WindyGoSF; 08-05-2014 at 11:22 AM. Reason: More input!
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