Did I break my prop shaft? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 26 Old 07-16-2009
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Well it looks like THEY didn't use a stainless pin now does it.

I think (after re-reading and looking real hard at the diagram) that you have a TAPER LOCK type bushing.

That nut on the back is what keeps it on and tight to the shaft, that is the reason for the high amount of torque required.

Be sure you use the proper grease on the nut and taper but no lube on the shaft.

I think that if you had just tighten the nut all would be well.

Rick
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post #12 of 26 Old 07-17-2009
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Me thinks you math is upside down--
130# at 20 inches= 2600 inch pounds
divided 12==217 foot pounds

It's late and I'm tired so I could be wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfatyol View Post
I believe that 130 lbs at 20" is only 78 ft-lb torque.


Pat

Rick
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post #13 of 26 Old 07-17-2009
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#1 What is the diameter in millimeters of your prop shaft?
#2 do not use a woodruff key.
#3 you have to drill a hole either either 8 mm or 10 mm through the shaft.
#4 you insert a pin either 8 or 10 mm into the hole, With a smaller drift punch either a 5mm, or a 6mm and tap it in with a hammer.
#5 Re-assemble, and using your new spanner wrench, that is 20 inches LONG, use your foot, and stand on the wrench using about 130 pounds of your weight. if your wrench isn't long enough put a pipe on it and measure 20" like the picture, and stand on it.
There you go, have fun.

Why, why, why?
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post #14 of 26 Old 07-21-2009 Thread Starter
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Hey Everyone,

I'm still dealing with this. My coupling has a hole with a cup point set screw (allen head). Thinking there must be a hole in the shaft the set screw sits in, I was able to move the coupling up to expose the shaft and there's no depression or hole. There is a long slot running a few inches up the shaft that's a bit mangled as if the set screw could have been jammed in that. I can't see how it would hold for fore and aft movement though.

I did get a proper spanner wrench, and tightened down that lock collar as best I could, however had difficulty keeping the transmission from turning. Putting it in gear wasn't enough. That said, I was able to put enough pressure to give the engine a good twist on it's rubber mounts. The shaft spun & moved forward in the coupling within minutes in use when put into forward gear.

I really need to drill a hole for the set screw as some have advised, or a hole straight through and pin it.

About the hole. I'm thinking it will be difficult to drill a perpendicular hole through a bronze shaft while the boat is in the water. I could rig up something to brace the shaft under the drill, but keeping the drill centered?

I've seen some drilling jigs somewhere that clamp on to a cylinder, and align the drill bit..but where? Anyone know of anything like this??

And if I choose to drill straight through? Where do I get a pin? "Shear pins" I've seen are small and short. I need something around 3.5 inches long. The best I could come up with would be to order some 1/4 inch bronze rod and cut to length. My shaft is 7/8 inch (measured w/o calipers) so I could use a 1/4 drill bit.

I'm leaning on drilling a hole for the set screw to fit into, however, if I were to drill straight through, I could use the hole in the coupling as a guide..but then I'd need to drill straight through the shaft and the other side of the coupling, or else how would I ever get the pin out to dismantle.

Thanks for reading so far. With the boat on the water, I'm going slow with this. Don't want to mess this one up.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Preserved Killick


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post #15 of 26 Old 07-21-2009
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Did..

Did this slot look like a key slot?

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post #16 of 26 Old 07-21-2009 Thread Starter
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Possibly. I've not dealt with a key's shaft, I'm assuming that's what I'm looking at.

Although the slot is fairly long in the shaft.

One thing I'm dealing with, is a tight tolerance at the prop. If the shaft is pushed forward under forward thrust more than 1/8th the zinc donut rubs, if the shaft us pulled back 1/4 inch it will hit the inside of the rudder at maximum turn.

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post #17 of 26 Old 07-22-2009
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Why re-invent this? Why don't you just follow the directions? Don't you think they made the directions and sizes for a reason? Maybe this is beyond your capability. Spend a few dollars, and let a reputable person repair this for you. Then GO SAILING, and sleep well knowing you didn't half ass this together, putting your crew and others in peril because of YOUR decision. By the way, if you look at your drawing, the keyway with the BIG X means NO, as in "DON'T USE A KEYWAY!"

Why, why, why?
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post #18 of 26 Old 07-22-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks Capnblu,

I appreciate your sentiments. I'd be happy to write the check that gets this done. I did ask around to some mechanics, and so far no one I've talked to has seen this setup before, or expressed that they knew just what to do. I could pay someone to drill the hole, then what do we use for a pin? I've got a call in to Vetus on that issue. We'll see what they say. I'm thinking 1/4 inch bronze rod.

If the boat were out of the water, I could remove the shaft and just use a drill press. In the water, laying over the engine, holding an electric drill, I'm concerned I won't have very good control.

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post #19 of 26 Old 07-22-2009
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I would not go back to the set-screw arrangement. It has already failed you once. The correct installation method is shown fairly clearly in the diagram.

The shaft probably came with a "key" slot already in it. That's why you see the slightly mangled slot that the set screw was set into.

Keep pestering Vetus. They should be able to provide the shear pin for their own transmission. As others have said, follow the diagram, i.e. 8mm bit, 8mm shear pin, 5mm drift, etc. (or whatever it indicated). I would think with a sharp bit and some solid bracing, you could manage with a hand drill -- but I haven't seen the space you're working in either.

Good luck. Sorry about the troubles, but glad it didn't act up until after you had safely passed that lee shore.


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post #20 of 26 Old 07-22-2009
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How I would go about this repair with the boat in the water.

1 Re assemble the coupling without the nut and collar on the prop side, tighten the 4 through bolts. This will align the cross in the coupling.

2 Install the zink on the prop shaft and align the prop in the proper location. This will align the prop shaft in the cross.

3 Mark the shaft at the exposed end of the cross on the prop end for reference. Sharpe??

4 Disasemble the coupler, shove the lock nut, collar and coupler twards the prop and push the shaft back and remove the coupler half connected to the transmission.

5 Find a drill bit that will fit snug into the set screw hole, that will be you guide. Realign the cross to the mark. Drill the hole 90 degrees to the keyway.

6 Drill your new hole out to the correct pin size.

7 Before you start reasembly make a tool using a length of angle iron (1 1/2?)to hold the coupler while tightening. Use the engine side of the coupling as a guide and mark two holes that hold the coupling together at the shortest distance (not accross the center). Make sure it fits, you may have to clearance for the shaft. Drill the angle so you can use it to hold for loosing too. Be sure it is long enuff to reach to the hull or accross the sole or some thing so that when you go to tighten the spanner nut it will hold the torque and not the engine. You can always cut it shorter later.

8 Assemble the coupler with the holding tool will be pushing aginst something solid and tighten the four bolts first.

9 Now get out your spanner and a piece of pipe and apply 216 pounds of force at one foot (12 inches) from the center of the shaft.

10 Go back and remove the holder and install the two bolts and you are done.

Rick
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