This is a 44B Four but should be similar except for the gear box. Not a difficult job but time consuming none the less.
A word of caution about PB Blaster is DO NOT get it on or near any engine seals such as the rear main or the tranny input or output seals. PB Blaster can soften seals and ruin them. Ask me how I found out..
You will likely not have enough room between the bell housing and the engine for wood shims. These Mitsubishi blocks are compact. If you are not removing the bell housing then block under it. A good size piece of plywood to distribute the load under the oil pan works well and the pan is plenty strong for this load provided you don't go dropping the engine on the pan from one + foot.
The allen head machine screws that hold the damper plate on are coated with Red Loc-Tite from the factory. Trying to get them out without an impact driver may cause you to snap them. I used heat from a mini butane torch after a liberal soak with PB Blaster. I simply blasted the head of the allen screw for about 60 seconds with the mini torch, which softened the Red Loc-Tite, then quickly used the impact driver while they were still hot. Use a small battery powered impact driver and you'll have no problems.
Unlike Osirisail I find I break bolts much less often with impact drivers as the 1200+ beats per minute really do a nice job of "impacting" or breaking the bolt free, in conjunction with PB Blaster, especially when working on spars with aluminum/stainless corrosion. Having grown up restoring antique cars, and removing thousands of rusted bolts, my odds & success rates with impact drivers are far better than by hand..
While you're in there you might want to pull the flywheel and replace the rear main seal, depending upon the engine hours.
Rear main goes here:
Might as well put a coat of fresh paint on stuff while you have it apart:
Oh and it's easier to change tranny fluid with the gear box off. I actually spun mine with a Hole Hawg drill and flushed about four quarts of clean new fluid through it giving it a full internal cleaning:
Don't forget proper torque specs which can be found in the manual:
Then put it all back together: