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post #11 of 13 Old 12-31-2009
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post #12 of 13 Old 12-31-2009
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A shop manual should also tell you how to test the switch itself. Often that's either an on-off connection or a variable resistance (most common) and you can test the sender with a multimeter. Senders do go bad, and if that happens you just throw it away and screw in a new one. A gauge is no panacea, it can malfunction too. And if the sender is bad--the gauge won't work either.
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post #13 of 13 Old 01-01-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
A shop manual should also tell you how to test the switch itself. Often that's either an on-off connection or a variable resistance (most common) and you can test the sender with a multimeter. Senders do go bad, and if that happens you just throw it away and screw in a new one. A gauge is no panacea, it can malfunction too. And if the sender is bad--the gauge won't work either.
The type of OP gauge I was recommending has no sending unit that could fail. A Mechanical gauge has OP sent directly to the gauge itself via a plastic line and fitting where the sending unit thread into. The biggest danger is the line springing a leak. If you have a problem with a mechanical gauge it is way easier to tell and in my opinion more reliable than all other types of OP gauges.

Why not have the best of both worlds and install a T fitting and use the light and the gauge. What ever blows your skirt up.

Last edited by CarelessNavigator; 01-02-2010 at 04:51 PM.
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