universal diesel issues....hot, leaky etc
OK so heres the deal, I had posted about how my 413hr universal m-25 started right up with a few gaskets and a good cleaning etc etc after I pulled it and found water in the oil pan (sat 1/2 submerged in water on the hard for about 1.5 years) well long and short is the oil was displaced up and protected the bearings .
Well I cleaned her, put some new gaskets and reassembled (only thing that did not come off was the head and front cover)
Had it on a engine stand/holder with no hot water heater bypass in line and she stared right up and the temp was 165 even and ran for about 45 min @ idle with a little reving but VERY little.
Put it in the boat hooked up the hot H2O heater etc and started her again, temp climbed to 230 as I thought all was well and she got shut down, filled the raw water again and vented the top of the thermostat with it running (alot of bubbling before a steady stream of coolant began to flow.) Temp stabilized @ 185ish but could not for the life of me feel hot water going into the H2O heater section valve opened or 1/2 opened.
I am concerned with the temp @ 185 under NO load....I believe I read in another thread 1 time that there could be vapor lock in the hot H2O circut......
could this be a reason for the 20 deg higher temps? If so how do I remedy this?
The leak(an oil leak) is an easy fix...i believe it looks like it is coming out the back plate of the injection pump, the one gasket I reused....DOOH BART!
Josh, less than a month away from a 30' catalina TR in the water!
bubble in the hot water loop! Happened to me too! took the hose on the after side of the W/H off (while cool) and it burped!
tsk tsk.. using old gaskets.
I went through something similar this year. I changed the raw water pump, had the heat exchanger boiled out, and changed the coolant. Put everything back together and test ran the engine, which worked great. Launched the boat and motored to my slip. After 5 minutes the temperature gauge was pegged. Got to my mooring and shut the engine down. Opened the bleed bolt on the thermostat housing and nothing but air. Bled and bled and bled. It took about 5 cycles of bleeding, running, venting, etc.
Once I got all the air out the engine runs right at 180 (I have a 180 thermostat), which is where I want it.
I bet you just need to get all the air out.
Ditto on burping the system.
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