Older Yanmar.. rebuild? replace? or?... - Page 12 - SailNet Community
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post #111 of 275 Old 03-09-2011
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About all that marine growth on the propeller and then it dried in place, Here are some suggestions I found on how to clean it:
cleaning barnacles etc off props - Yachting and Boating World Forums
Painting and Cleaning a Prop - SailboatOwners.com
What to clean bronze props with..? - Yachting and Boating World Forums

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post #112 of 275 Old 03-09-2011
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I have about 28C in the water all year around, it is a jungle on land, and barnacles grows double the speed of a coral reef!
I and most other owners in the area, have tried most of what is available to 'paint' the prop to prevent, but no no or little avail.
Diving almost every 2 weeks seems to be the only solution between haul outs, every 18-24 months.
Having a 3-blade folding, I need to keep the blades moving.
Impossible to avoid the growth, manual cleaning seems to be the only way.
Whatever removes barnacles of chemicals, are acid based so use with caution!!
If you take the prop off, drop it off at a radiator shop and have them giving it a 'bath'. That normally gets it clean and much cheaper than all the fancy stuff.
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post #113 of 275 Old 03-09-2011
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Bronze is Strong Enough for Your Boat

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Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
Nice, thanks LSG... you think bronze? I'd heard it was too "soft" and no longer advised in this application.
Certainly Aqumet 22 is strong at a torsional sheer of 70,000 and is used for racing boats. It is very corrosion resistant and expensive. Stainless steel 304 (which is probably what you now have) is stronger than 316. Stainless 304 has a torsional sheer of 20,000 as does tobin bronze which is considered obsolete by some and would be rather hard to find now days. I still wonder what the pitch, diameter of the propeller and shaft is. My assumption is you have a seven-eights-diameter propeller shaft and with a 13 inch three blade propeller, and then any material that has been used in the past (or present) for a propeller shaft would work on the Alberg 30. A 14 inch two blade, which probably would not fit the aperture, would need a one-inch propeller shaft for stainless 304.

My preference is honestly the silicon bronze for the propeller shaft because it is a very strong bronze and because it is the same material I am guessing as the propeller and there would therefore be no need for galvanic protection between these two metals. I think you presently have Stainless 304 matched to a silicon bronze propeller and you must have a zinc because these two metals are too far apart on the galvanic scale. However unless you isolate the propeller and shaft from the engine with a coupler at the transmission that does not conduct electricity, you must have a zinc to protect against shore power and its problems with electrolysis driven by stray current in the water caused by the common ground from AC power and dissimilar metals in the marina no matter what the propeller and propeller shaft material.

The reason I am trying to avoid a zinc on the propeller is that no barnacles and sea growths will attach to the propeller if there is no zinc. The copper in the propeller kills them. I have discovered postings in the powerboat part of the Internet about not using a zinc, but have to be careful about this recommendation and will know more later as I have just ordered a book about corrosion in the marine environment.

An other thing that needs to be done for isolation from AC power stray voltages is a marine battery charger, which will not share primary and secondary windings, and this can isolate the boat from shore power as will an isolation transformer. If you go to Europe, an isolation transformer that drops 240 to 120 volts (I am not sure on the exact voltages, it might be 230) would be required. An isolation transformer that can handle 50 Hertz and 60 Hertz would also be a requirement. So for only a 12-volt system you need a marine charger that works at 120 volts and 240 volts, 50 and 60 Hertz if going to Europe, Australia or Japan. For both 120 volts and 12 volts you need an isolation transformer with any kind of battery charger plugged into the isolation transformer. If you were staying with 120 volt always, then a 120-volt isolation transformer would work or a marine battery charger if DC only. I like the above approach because it is fail-safe. If you go with galvanic protection that impresses a voltage on the boat to overwhelm these stray voltages, a failure in power can leave you unprotected and if reversed polarity mistakenly happens, the consequences are devastating. Then there is a need for a ground for lightening strikes and another type of ground for a single side band (SSB) radio transmitter which is another topic.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-09-2011 at 10:55 PM.
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post #114 of 275 Old 03-09-2011
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The present shaft seems to have been there for some 30 years, and still not 'broken'.
If needed to replace I would have gone the same way again, unless I for some unknown reason wants it to last 60 years next time??????
If ever going to Europe and the EU, watch out for the 220 - 110 transformers.
Be sure you get one that is marked according to the EU conformation standards, or you run the risk of having it confiscated and a hefty fine. The same goes for the 110/220 volts system if a fix installation in the boat.
The rules and practices varies a bit from marina to marina, but I've been in a few that categorically ban US boats to hook into the shore power unless they have certificates of the total installation which most does not have. Remember that any device connected to the shore power system must be certified, not only the transformer.
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post #115 of 275 Old 03-09-2011
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Another problem with a stainless 304 propeller shaft is that crevice corrosion if it exists will tear out the new packing because of its roughness. Also, the cutless bearing rubber.

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How Does One Get Certification

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Originally Posted by haffiman37 View Post
...If ever going to Europe and the EU, watch out for the 220 - 110 transformers.
Be sure you get one that is marked according to the EU conformation standards, or you run the risk of having it confiscated and a hefty fine. The same goes for the 110/220 volts system if a fix installation in the boat.
The rules and practices varies a bit from marina to marina, but I've been in a few that categorically ban US boats to hook into the shore power unless they have certificates of the total installation which most does not have. Remember that any device connected to the shore power system must be certified, not only the transformer.
How does one certify the transformer and power system?
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Quote:
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No big deal.
Here is how to calculate:
Looks like the lofting on the plans for the boat I want to build


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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSuperiorGeezer View Post
How does one certify the transformer and power system?
All equipment must be marked with below sticker and a certificate number.

Fixed installation in the boat, must be done by authorized (EU) 'installer'.
One can forget about getting un-marked and old equipment 'certified'.
If the boat itself is delivered from the yard/builder with CE compliance certificate and shore power installed, it is the responsibility of the yard/boat builder.
The only 'legal' way around, is by using a heavy CE marked battery charger and then connect the 110-volt system in the boat via an inverter from the battery pack!

You may read the 'basic' here:
CE mark - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
One thing some people are not aware of is that non-CE marked products that requires CE marking are forbidden to import and sell within EU.
If you for some reason take your boat to EU and want/need to sell and go back home, it is in general by law illegal!!
However you may get around that too if registered as 'commercial vessel'. It must however in that case enter EU as commercial vessel, and not be registered after having cleared in as 'private pleasure craft'.
If already in Europe, that means in general you may have to take a trip to:
Russia, Libya, Tunis, Egypt and re-register!
There are other countries that are not members of EU, but by agreements bond to follow the regulations.
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Propeller

Stainless Steel 304 has a Rockwell Hardness of 85B, Silicon Bronze (Everdur C65500) is 90B, and it seems rather odd, but Aquamet 22 is less than 50, probably all the alloy metals make is soft. Nickel Aluminum Bronze is 205B Rockwell Hardness which is also used for propeller shafts. I think the problem is corrosion rather than hardness when it comes to making a choice. For the manufacturer, it is cost, even if a few dollars.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-10-2011 at 02:12 PM.
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post #120 of 275 Old 03-10-2011 Thread Starter
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Ok, we are going to get into this tomorrow, I believe I am going to try to remove the shaft with the prop still attached.

Should I:

1- Remove the hose clamps on the rubber hose on the prop "tube"..
2- Loosen the stuffing box nuts completely..
3- Remove the "keys" from the shaft coupler at the transmission..
4- Remove the cutlass assembly..
5- Pull the shaft out of the boat, prop attached?

??? (god help me..)
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