Older Yanmar.. rebuild? replace? or?... - Page 13 - SailNet Community
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post #121 of 275 Old 03-10-2011
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Try the following procedure:
Remove the screws holding the shaft in the shaft-coupling, but keep the shaft coupling bolted to the transmission and propeller on the shaft.
Try to pull out the shaft (with propeller) from the coupling and all the way out.
It is a risk that the shaft is 'frozen' in the coupling, if possible try to heat the coupling but do not burn the boat or transmission seals!!!!!!
A slide hammer may even be used at the prop end , but be careful with gearbox bearings!!
If all fails, you nay have to disconnect the coupling from the gearbox and use an outboard flywheel puller to get the coupling off the shaft.
Remember to remove the key in the shaft before attempting to pull out the shaft!!!
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post #122 of 275 Old 03-10-2011
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Now is the time to re-do everything about the stern gland if you can. Yes, change the packing in the stuffing box and/or replace with so-called dripless packing (PSS) gland.
If you don't know how old the Cutlass bearing is it is probably time to replace that too.
The work is never ending with an old boat.

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post #123 of 275 Old 03-10-2011
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Removal of Prepeller and Shaft as a Unit

Getting the propeller off the shaft after pulling the shaft and propeller as a unit is going to be awkward, You are going to have to hold the propeller while trying to tighten the puller and if you do it on concrete, you are going to damage the propeller blades. It does not take much more than a scratch on the ends of the blades to have a real hit on propeller efficiency. Even doing it on a wood bench with careful support of the shaft will be problematic while trying to prevent damage to the propeller. Loosen the nut holding the propeller, but leave it on the shaft as the shaft is going to really let go and want to skewer anything in its way. The propeller is going to want to take off also the other direction. The only way I can see removing the propeller from the shaft after pulling them as a unit is to have a machine shop press the shaft off the propeller. A press that is used for removing ball bearings from an automotive axel shaft would do it. They have mandrels for axel bearing removal that will support the propeller I think and it could actually be rather elegant.

If you really want to do it this way, loosen the stuffing box housing locking nut (be careful to look at the threads to make sure the nut turns in the normal direction, because sometimes it does not on a stuffing box, it’s a rare event but it could be a left hand thread). Now loosen the adjusting nut but not quite all the way. Then remove the safety wired square headed lock screw and then loosen the nuts and bolts securing the fore and aft ends of the coupling aft of the transmission. Put a bolt between the fore and aft ends with the threaded end of the bolt against the propeller shaft. Make sure the bolt is small enough to ride only on the shaft. That is not any part of the bolt against the axel should come against the aft end of the coupling. You may have to use long nose pliers if there is not enough room to position the bolt with your fingers. There are previous links demonstrating how to do this earlier on this thread. Push the propeller shaft out of the aft coupling by tightening the bolts. You will need bolts that are much longer than the originals used to hold the fore and aft ends of the coupling together. However, instead of the bolt technique above you could use a vibration damper puller, and push the propeller shaft out of the aft end of the coupling with that. I think it would be easier. You could even try a steering wheel puller although it might not be big enout for the job. When the shaft is free of the aft coupling end, remove the shaft key. Use a flat bladed small screwdriver with a sharpened blade on it and drive the screwdriver blade under the shaft key to remove it. You should now be able to pull the propeller shaft out of the boat. After doing that you can loosen the hose, and remove the stuffing box, then the hose and at last the cutless bearing or cutless bearing housing.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-10-2011 at 10:14 PM.
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post #124 of 275 Old 03-10-2011
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Maintenance

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Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
maintenance overhaul of the motor.
I would do this only if a specific problem were already diagnosed. Otherwise, this could be an expensive exercise with no benefit. If you mean change all the filters and oil, and check the valve lash (which you can do yourself with the shop manual) then that has merit. You could also pull the injectors and take them to a shop that repairs fuel injection pumps and have the injectors cleaned

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-10-2011 at 09:50 PM.
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post #125 of 275 Old 03-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
I was planning on removing it all as one piece, I wasn't going to try to remove the prop first..

The rest seems pretty straight forward, wish me luck - tomorrow I get dirty...
Sounds reasonable.
I have done this kind of job quite some times, and the method I described generally worked the best.
Having my own workshop with proper tools of course made it a bit easier.
Just concentrate on getting the shaft and propeller off the boat, then we take it step by step from there.
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post #126 of 275 Old 03-10-2011
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If you can get the shaft out with the prop on, you probably won't need a prop puller. Just take the nuts off of the end of the shaft, put a little piece of plywood on the ground (preferably concrete), turn the shaft upright (vertical) with the prop at the bottom, and drop the whole mess straight down onto the plywood nice and sharp a few times until the prop pops off (watch your toes!). The plywood should keep the shaft threads and the prop hub from getting dinged up. If you can't get the prop off after a few drops, apply some penetrating oil and let it set overnight (maybe give it a bit of heat, if you want), then repeat.

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post #127 of 275 Old 03-10-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haffiman37 View Post
Sounds reasonable.
I have done this kind of job quite some times, and the method I described generally worked the best.
Having my own workshop with proper tools of course made it a bit easier.
Just concentrate on getting the shaft and propeller off the boat, then we take it step by step from there.
I will, and thank you

Let's see what shakes loose tomorrow and this weekend...
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post #128 of 275 Old 03-11-2011
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Torque

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Originally Posted by SlowButSteady View Post
... Just take the nuts off of the end of the shaft, put a little piece of plywood on the ground (preferably concrete), turn the shaft upright (vertical) with the prop at the bottom, and drop the whole mess straight down onto the plywood nice and sharp a few times until the prop pops off (watch your toes!). The plywood should keep the shaft threads and the prop hub from getting dinged up. If you can't get the prop off after a few drops, apply some penetrating oil and let it set overnight (maybe give it a bit of heat, if you want), then repeat.
Do not heat above the boiling point of water. Throw a few drops of water on it to test. Bronze expands a little faster than stainless when heated so it does loosen things up with the stainless on the inside. About dropping onto hard surface, could work but I think it depends on if the nut was torqued properly. If this is a 7/8 diameter propeller shaft in stainless steel 304 (for torque specifications, is also known as 18-8 stainless series), it has a 5/8 diameter thread with 11 inch pitch and should have been torqued to 92 foot pounds. The socket by the way is 15/16 inch.
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post #129 of 275 Old 03-11-2011
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Engine Manual

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Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
Belts, impeller, stuff like that. Stuff that can be done in the boat basically. Major tune up might be a better way to put it?..
The items I mentioned can also be done in the boat. I would at least do the valve lash for easy starting. Check the engine manual for belt installation. It is actually a little complicated what with checking deflation of belt for tightness, and the fact the belts can stretch and loosen soon after installation. Do not over tighten, as it is hard on accessory bearings driven by the belt. By the way, when a belt is getting too old, there will be cracks on the bottom side (where it would fit deeply into the grove) on the pulley going towards the wider part of the V belt. It might look harmless enough as it could be only a quarter inch long, but the belt will soon fail with almost instant overheating. Check all the way around the belt, turning the engine to see what the pulleys hide a possible crack. You might carry the old belt as a spare if there are no cracks and a new impeller. I am really impressed by the quality of the manual for this engine. You can learn a lot about diesel engines in general by just reading it.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 03-11-2011 at 10:07 AM.
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post #130 of 275 Old 03-13-2011
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The weight of that engine is just about 115Kg/230 Lbs.
A 2 x4 across or 2 guys could probably easily lift it away into the cabin.
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