Older Yanmar.. rebuild? replace? or?... - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 275 Old 02-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSuperiorGeezer View Post
This lower end work, the pan is on the lower end of the engine, has to be done under practically clean room conditions and I would not trust the average mechanic to do it. Have an automotive machinist do it, as they know about cleanliness and how important it is.
I've rebuilt many an engine and have never heard of doing so in a clean room. I've also worked in many a clean room at semi-conductor plants, can't say i've seen that there...

But yes, you certainly want to be as clean as possible.

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post #12 of 275 Old 02-26-2011
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Bump... this thread has been culled from the 'Chainplate' thread which had drifted off topic.....

Ron

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post #13 of 275 Old 02-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
I checked all my battery connections today (actually, I removed my batteries today), and all the wires look new(ish):

Thanks for the download LSG, I have the manual already (as well a couple diesel repair books), but until I actually begin to turn some wrenches it still presents a cloudy picture to me. I learn mechanical stuff best in a hands on fashion.

If I pull the motor and take it to my local Yanmar service/sales center, what do you think an overhaul might run me? Any idea of a ballpark on something like that? I'd like to get her done just for my own piece of mind even if she is ok for the most part...

?
Sorry I cannot help with the prices because its been a long time since I worked in an automotive machine shop. Also, I do almost all my own work except when really expensive specialize equipment is required and I get my parts mostly online at wholesale prices so what happens is I really underestimate the cost for the average person. If I had to pay shop prices I could not afford my old cars and toys for all the work they have needed.

If I were you, I would strip the accessories from the engine; generator, injection pump, water pumps, manifolds etc. Strip it down to what is called a long block with the head and pan still on it and take it straight to an automotive machine shop. If anything is needed in the way of machine work, this is where the Yanmar dealer would send it anyway so cut out the middle man. But, I would only do this if the engine had low compression and failed an oil analysis test with a bunch of metal in the oil. Since periodic maintenance was done, you likely do not have any bearing problems from dirt and contamination in the oil. If there are serious bearing problems, they make a noise that gets worse with time. I doubt the engine ever ran without oil if well maintained. It all comes down to compression I think. These engine jobs can be expensive, so ask how much to do a valve job and how much to do a short block (grind the crankshaft, camshaft bearings, rebuild the connecting rods, clean all the parts, also ask how much a rebuild parts kit including all gaskets would cost if the machine shop supplied those items for you). Ask the machine shop if they work on diesel engines when you first call them up. If it's just gasoline engines, find another. You could also ask if they know Yanmar. If it's just low compression, then pull the head yourself.

Last edited by LakeSuperiorGeezer; 02-27-2011 at 07:55 AM.
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post #14 of 275 Old 02-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandLocked66c View Post
I've rebuilt many an engine and have never heard of doing so in a clean room. I've also worked in many a clean room at semi-conductor plants, can't say i've seen that there...

But yes, you certainly want to be as clean as possible.
Well I said practically clean room . I know the machinist is not going to be working in highly filtered air with a protective suit and gear to protect what is being assembled, but I have seen machine shops that have special assembly areas that are kept spotless, and that the cleaning of engine parts and protecting those parts after cleaning is done carefully. For instance all the oil galleys in the block and crankshaft need careful attention or it can shorten the life of the engine considerably. And after engine assembly, I have seen all is sealed carefully in plastic.
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post #15 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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"We have decided to go engine-less "

Good luck with that.

You clearly have a lot more confidence in your sailing skills than I (or you're a lot closer to divine intervention).


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post #16 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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Chrisncate--

Considering that your engine is a valuable piece of safety gear, I would highly recommend not going engineless, especially if you're going to be having the boat as your HOME. What is the point of having a home that you can move if you don't have a way to move it when the wind isn't cooperating?




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post #17 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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JEEEZ, Chris...... now we have to talk you out of another decision....

Ron

1984 Fast/Nicholson 345 "FastForward"

".. there is much you could do at sea with common sense.. and very little you could do without it.."
Capt G E Ericson (from "The Cruel Sea" by Nicholas Monsarrat)
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post #18 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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Engine-less

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Originally Posted by chrisncate View Post
We have decided to go engine-less
I believe your engine will give satisfactory service without an overhaul. Diesels last 5000 hours with proper maintenance and fresh water cooling. The cutlass bearing can be checked by just grabbing hold of the propeller and moving it back and forth to see if there is any play in the bearing. A little is good, but if the rubber has disintegrated you will certainly notice it. A monel or bronze shaft will make for long lasting cutlass bearing. Stainless steel can have crevice corrosion and that can destroy a cutlass bearing very quickly. I would store the engine just in case you change your mind. If you want to go without an inboard engine, then there are slip lines, turning under lines and spring lines to help you on docking, but read and practice a lot. It requires a lot of thinking though, working out things ahead of time. Better have the best ground tackle suitable for your boat and several anchors. Mooring and anchoring should be relatively easy. Docking would be more exciting. Are you thinking of a hard of soft dinghy? Do you have room for a hard dinghy on deck? You might have to go with a nesting dinghy. If you get an outboard for the dinghy, get two propellers, one for planing the dinghy, and the other for towing the sailboat. If you go with one propeller for towing the sailboat, be very careful not to run the engine beyond its RPM rating or you could destroy the engine. Best to swap propellers.
http://www.gerrmarine.com/images/boa...r11nesterB.JPG.

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post #19 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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I still think a compression test with intake and exhaust valve adjustment is a good idea before pulling because then you will know what you have, most likely an engine that needs no work. If you decide to sell the engine, it makes a good selling point if the compression is within specification. I am assuming the maintenance was done as it should have been done when I state the engine is good to go as is.
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post #20 of 275 Old 03-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeSuperiorGeezer View Post
I still think a compression test with intake and exhaust valve adjustment is a good idea before pulling because then you will know what you have, most likely an engine that needs no work. If you decide to sell the engine, it makes a good selling point if the compression is within specification.
BINGO! If it ain't broke, don't fix it, and if it does break, well... now you are engineless just like you wanted, without incurring the costs of removing the engine.

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